Whether long or short hair, acryllic furs can add elegance without harming any unwary critters.
While acrylic (a.k.a. faux) fur is now widely recognized as an animal-friendly alternative to real fur, that wasn't always the case. Synthetic fur only came into use in the late 1920s because real fur was expensive and in short supply. Those first furs were made of the primitive synthetic polyester polymers available at the time, and they were what we would equate to cheap costume fur today. Later acrylic furs were far stronger, smoother and better looking, but the color had to be integral to the fiber because they were impossible to dye with standard products. Newer, specialty dyes make acrylic dyeing a cheap alternative if you're looking for a change or want to make an old white coat look new again. Does this Spark an idea?
Instructions
1. Weigh your fabric and record the measurement in ounces. Multiply the weight by 0.01 (1 percent) to 0.03 (3 percent, depending on the dye color and the desired degree of saturation. Multiply by 3 percent for very dark, deep colors and one percent for lighter shades, like pink or tan. For our purposes, say the dry weight of our fabric is 10 lbs. (160 ounces) and we want to dye it deep red. Use 4.8 ounces of dye (160 x 0.03 = 4.8); 1.6 ounces of red dye (1 percent solution, 160 x 0.01 = 1.6) would give more of a pink.
2. Calculate the amount of water you'll need. Basic dye calls for about 4 gallons to 2.2 lbs. of dry fabric weight, so divide your fabric weight by 2.2 and multiply by 4. In the 10-lb. fabric example, use 18.2 gallons of water (10 / 2.2 x 4 = 18.18). You can use up to 1/3 more water for lighter tints, or 24.2 gallons (18.2 x 0.33 + 18.2 = 24.2) in this case. Measure out two teaspoons of acetic acid solution per gallon of water.
3. Remove one gallon of cold water from your dyeing drum and set it on the stove to boil. Dissolve your dye in this boiling water and pour it into the cold water in your drum. Add the acetic acid (36.4 teaspoons, or 3/4-cup in this case) to the cold water and stir the solution thoroughly to disperse the dye and acid.
4. Add the fur to the cold water, then turn the heat on. Stir the pot every few minutes to ensure that the dye evenly settles on the fur; bring the water up to a boil. Allow the mixture to boil for 60 minutes, then turn the heat off and allow the pot to cool to room temperature. Ideally, you should agitate the mixture constantly, but stirring for about 30 seconds every few minutes will suffice. This goes for the cool-down time as well.
5. Remove the fur from the pot and place it in a warm place to dry overnight. Allowing the fur to cool too quickly is what causes the fibers to shrink and warp, so a gradual cool-down is vital. Ideally, your drying area should never dip below 85 degrees F. After it dries, the fur is safe to wash and won't shrink, regardless of temperature. As with any dyeing project, after drying, run the fur through the cold-rinse cycle in your washing machine to remove any excess dye, then allow the fur to air dry.
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