Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Split Stack And Store Fire Wood & Calculate The Volume

Honey Locust logs waiting to be converted to next winters' fire wood


No matter how your fire wood stacks up, it must be dry when cold weather swoops down from the north. Whether you are a newbie or grizzled veteran of wood processing wars, your wood must still be split, stacked and stored so that it will be dry enough for next winters' heating. It is in the fall, winter and spring that wood must be processed for the next cold season. This article outlines several splitting, stacking and storage methods and also clearly defines common wood quantities/volumes. Last winter we saved about $1500 in heating costs by heating with wood. Economics and good exercise are just two of many good reasons to heat with wood - being the best heat available is the chief one.


Instructions


1. You can purchase fire wood or split your own. Tree felling techniques and chain saw use is not discussed here. Fire wood can be hand split or by using a hydraulic or other type of mechanical splitter. When splitting by hand - that is with a splitting maul ( a heavy headed ax in effect) - it is some times necessary to first break down large diameter pieces with steel wedges and a sledge hammer. After busting these in halves and then quarters, the splitting maul can be used. Purchasing fire wood is another option over spltting your own, but there are cautions to observe. Refer to tips and warnings.


2. Splitting wood by hand can be made much easier by using an old tire to contain the pieces being split. Get a large "cookie" of wood that is 30 or more inches in diameter and about 2ft in length. Place an old tire on top of the wood base and then set a length of wood that needs to be split inside the tire. As you split it into pieces the tire will contain the wood and keep you from having to chase it "all over creation". The wood base will keep you from having to bend over as you split and handle wood. Honey Locust, like that in the photo, is also relatively easy to split, splits clean and has a high btu rating for heat.


3. A hydraulic wood splitter is the most common mechanical method of splitting fire wood. These units can cost from a few hundred dollars up to several thousand. They come in wheeled units that can be towed like a trailer or semi portable models. The net has many major manufacturers sites' with photos and pricing. The one in this photo is a home made tractor mounted model. A splitter will remove 90 percent of the hard work from wood splitting. If you're in it for the excercise then by all means do it by hand.


4. Splitting wood ranges from very difficult to relatively easy, depending on the wood species. This White Ash splits straight and without many interconnecting fibers trying to keep the pieces together. The splitting effort required is not nearly so much as for Hickory which is one of the hardest woods to split. Red Oak is easier to split than White Oak and some of the other Oak species.


5. Shed or other under roof storage. Stacking your fire wood under a roof or designated wood shed will speed up the drying process by protecting it from the rain. Though it be under a roof it is still necessary to get the wood above the ground by stacking it on old pallets or wood runners of some type. If you have a large porch or equipment shed or shop the wood can be placed there. Openings in an enclosed structure for some air flow will help carry away moisture on warm days. A wood shed is best left open on the sides.


6. Out of doors storage, but not under a roof. Fire wood can be stacked in a single width with or without a covering or heaped and piled up without benefit of roof or cover. But a covering over the top is better. It is not necessary to cover the sides of the stack. The covering can be sheets of barn tin, folded tarps or pieces of scrap lumber. Covers must be weighed or tied down to keep the wind from blowing them away. Stack the wood against posts that have been set in the ground. Using steel fence posts drive them into the earth with a post driver or sledge hammer. If you use wood posts then just use a post hole digger to make holes. Place two 2 x 4 runners under the wood to keep it off the ground. This keeps insect, mold and rot damage to a minimum.


Wood stacked 4 feet high between posts set 8ft apart makes a face cord or "rick". If you want to place wood in a longer stack then set the posts at some multiple of 8 feet. This will assist in estimating the stack quantity. If you don't want to set posts then the ends only of the stack can be crisscrossed log cabin style to add rigidity to the stack. Unless you wood stack is extremely well assembled it will need some lateral support to keep high winds from blowing part or all of it over. Use lengths of 2 x 4s or cut saplings and wedge one end against the top of the pile and the other end into the ground. Place these about 4ft. spacings and on each side of the stack. This is much easier than restacking all of that blown over wood.


7. Orientation of your wood stack. By orienting your wood stacks east and west - as shown in the attached sketch - the sun can shine on your fibrous assets from dawn until dark. This is of course only if you have not stacked your wood in a shady area. Try and locate your wood stacks in the open where the sun can hit it and air can flow around and through it.


8. Piled wood. Fire wood that is heaped or piled up without benefit of a roof or cover, such as the one in the photo, dry more slowly and ground contact will cause mold and rot at an accelerated rate over that stacked clear of the ground. If you are going to pile up the wood then place it on a tarp that will separate it from the earth and place the pile on sloping ground so water will run off. This will reduce damage by insect pests.


9. Using the German "Holzhaufen" as a storage method. This method of storing wood is pretty labor intensive but is great if you have the time and energy. It consists of setting a pole into the ground and stacking the wood around it in a prescribed way. The holzhaufen (wood pile or wood house depending on whose definition you believe) is described and referenced links at the end of this article. These will direct you to videos and text descriptions of this old world method of fire wood storage. The chief disadvantage is that a lot of the effort to make one of these is that it must be done from a ladder. This extra effort is probably why more of them are not seen.


10. What is a cord of wood? A cord of wood is a rectangular solid that has dimensions of 4ft. wide x 4ft. high x 8 ft. in length. This makes a volume of 128 cubic feet. A green cord or wood may be estimated to weigh about 5000 lbs, regardless of species.


11. What is a "face cord" of wood? A face cord or rick of wood is a stack of wood that is 4ft. high x 8ft. long with the wood pieces being anywhere from 12in. to 24in. in length. A wood length of 16 inches in the most common. You can see that a face cord/rick of wood is one third of a cord.


12. Separation of stored woods by type. It may be to your advantage to separate wood by species when making your stacks. Ash - Green or White species - dries quickly and in fact can furnish very good heat right after being felled and split. The old rhyme "Ash wet or Ash dry a king can dry his slippers by" is a good and true one. Red Oak should not be left in contact with the ground for long but White Oak is very rot resistant. The old adage "Red Oak, don't lay it down, White Oak you can put it in the ground" is true to the characteristics of the wood. Hickory, which makes a very hot fire, may be stacked on its' own. By keeping wood species separated you can choose the wood for your fire. Ash makes a good fire but will burn up much faster than Hickory or one of the Oaks.


13. Dry wood is necessary to have a good hot fire, Wood that is dry, or is well on the way to being dry will exhibit splits and cracks in the ends. These cracks indicate that moisture is evaporating.

Tags: your wood, cord wood, face cord, under roof, wood that

Find Water In The Sonoran Desert

Sonoran cacti have edible fruit that contain high percentages of water.


The Sonoran Desert stretches from southwestern Arizona and southeastern California down into the state of Sonora in Mexico, and is among the hottest deserts in the world. With an average yearly rainfall of 10 inches and sandy soil, it is one place where water is very hard to find. If you are planning an excursion into this rugged terrain, pack at least 2 gallons of water should you find yourself stranded and in need of rescue.


Instructions


1. Look for local fruit, and eat as much as you can find. Local fruit in the Sonoran Desert will be on the cactus plants. All cactus of the Sonoran Desert have edible fruit. Some great choices include Saguaro cactus, barrel cactus and strawberry pin cushions. Cactus fruit is sweet and contains plenty of water.


2. Catch and eat any bugs you can find, just be sure and kill them first. According to wilderness survival expert Bear Grylls, all parts of an insect are edible and are an excellent source of water. Insect grubs are also a great source of protein.


3. Look for green strands in the desert. If the color of the landscape changes from brown to green, then there is water nearby. Green strands will typically be slightly lower than the rest of the desert and will be filled with green vegetation. Always boil the water before drinking it to kill any parasites and bacteria.


4. Dig a hole under rocks in dry river beds. If there is any vegetation nearby, then there must be water. Sometimes water is simply two feet below the sand's surface. If you've dug down a foot or so and the ground is still dry, move on.

Tags: Sonoran Desert, edible fruit, have edible, have edible fruit, then there

Hook A Sump Pump To A Garden Hose

Hook a Sump Pump to a Garden Hose


Sump pumps are used in basements, crawl spaces and other areas where unwanted water tends to gather. These pumps are activated when the water in the sump basin reaches a pre-set depth. The water is then pumped out of the basin and away from the home. The method and materials used to construct the drain line can vary greatly from one application to another. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Locate the sump pump and determine the type of drain currently in place. If installing a new sump pump, proceed to step 2. Use the hack saw to cut through the drain pipe just above the top of the basin. With the drain cut, lift the sump pump up and out of the basin. Remove the drain pipe from the outlet port of the sump pump using the pipe wrench if necessary. With the drain line removed take the opportunity to inspect the interior of the pump for any loose debris or obvious damage. Discard the old drain and clean the outlet port of the pump.


2. Install the threaded adaptor into the outlet port of the sump pump. Be certain it is secure but take care not to over-tighten. The adaptor and outlet port will both be made of plastic and can crack or break. A snug secure fit is adequate. Once the adaptor is in place, connect the garden hose to the pump. This fitting also needs to be snug, but do not over-tighten. Carefully lower the pump back into the basin, making certain it sits level on the floor of the basin.


3. Route the water hose up and away from the sump basin. The hose may have a tendency to coil in the bottom of the basin if there is any slack in the hose. This can interfere with the operation of the pump and must be avoided. Take the hose up to ground level and either drill a new exit hole, or use the hole used for the previous drain. The hose can now be connected to a soaker hose or other application to make use of the water being removed or simply placed in a location to dispose of the water.

Tags: outlet port, sump pump, away from, drain line, drain pipe, Garden Hose

Mosquitoes In Farm Ponds

Mosquitos, which can carry many diseases, tend to lay their eggs in standing bodies of water such as ponds.


Mosquitoes are known to carry several serious diseases, including malaria, yellow fever, West Nile virus and eastern equine encephalitis. While most mosquito-borne diseases are found in mainly subtropical or tropical areas, mosquitoes are still aggressive pests. They prefer standing or largely still bodies of water in which to deposit their eggs, which is why a farm pond is an ideal breeding ground for these flying pests. Does this Spark an idea?


Mosquitoes


Mosquitoes are found in almost any climate, even extremely cold regions. Only the female of the species attacks humans and animals, landing on them, inserting a needle-like proboscis and then taking a blood meal. After mating with a male, a female will lay many eggs upon any body of water that tends to remain still. These eggs hatch, and the larvae grow to maturity before becoming pests themselves.


Ponds


Fast-moving bodies of water such as streams or rivers are too active for hatched larvae to be able to survive to adulthood in most cases. A farm pond makes for a good candidate for mosquito egg-laying for several reasons. For one, these ponds tend to be rich in the nutrients that originate in farm fields. For another, their waters are hardly ever greatly disturbed.


Solution


There are reliable solutions to mosquitoes and farm ponds. Their larvae, which stay just below the surface of the water they're in, require oxygen. They gather it through tiny breathing organs that resemble tubes. If you can clog up their breathing organs, you can suffocate them. An application of olive oil or some other nontoxic oil sprayed on the pond's surface will do the trick nicely. Also, livestock drinking from the pond aren't normally disturbed by the oil. However, you should not apply oil to a pond that is stocked with fish.


Methods


Mosquito larvae in a farm pond are easy to spot loitering just below the surface of the water.


Always check farm ponds for the presence of mosquito larvae. They're easy to spot loitering just below the surface of standing water. Any commercial canister sprayer containing plain water mixed with oil can be used to treat the surface of such water. Pump the sprayer and then lay the solution on the water's surface in gently sweeping motions until you can see a slight film or sheen on that surface. Reapply as needed.

Tags: below surface, bodies water, farm pond, just below, just below surface, below surface water, bodies water such

Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Plant An Easy To Grow Vegetable Garden

A Successful Easy To Grow Home Garden


It's easy to grow a vegetable garden, even with limited space. Several types of vegetables do quite well in containers on apartment balconies or patios or small patches of dirt carved out of your lawn. Tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, radishes, carrots, peas and bush beans can all be grown successfully in small areas by someone new to vegetable gardening. Even corn can be part of a small home garden if given the proper care. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Containers or Plot


1. Decide if you will be using containers for your vegetables or cutting a plot out of your backyard. 10 by 10 feet of land is plenty of room for a vegetable patch.


2. Decide what type of containers you'll use if you want to go that route. Round pots should be large, 14 inches in diameter or more, and rectangular ones should be in the range of 24 by 15 inches. All should be at least a foot deep. Special grow boxes with self-watering and self-fertilizing systems make growing vegetables on a patio very easy.


3. Select a location with plenty of sunlight. Vegetables require at least five hours of uninterrupted sun each day. In most cases, a garden planted on the south side of your house will receive the most daylight.


4. Draw a diagram of where you want each vegetable to go in the garden. After planting the vegetables, keep notes about their progress.


Soil and Fertilizer


5. Turn over the soil on your plot with the hoe to break up weeds and remove large rocks. Loosen the soil several inches down, especially if you plan to plant root vegetables like carrots. A rotary tiller makes this job easier.


6. Add organic matter to boost the soil nutrients. According to USDA Home and Garden Bulletin Number 202, fertile, well-drained soil is essential for a successful vegetable garden. Home improvement stores and garden centers sell convenient premixed bags of soil enhancers. Long term, you may want to consider a compost bin if you have the room.


7. Work slow-release fertilizer into the soil. For containers, start with potting mix then add the organic material and fertilizers.


8. Cover any areas where you plan to plant seedlings with black plastic or biodegradable weed block sheets (optional) or mulch. This will keep moisture in the ground and keep weeds from invading your garden. It can also be used on pots.


9. Place mulch on areas where you plan to sow seeds by hand only AFTER the seedlings have started to emerge. Too much mulch over the seeds could inhibit their growth.


Seed and Plant Selection


10. Decide which vegetables you want to grow, considering what vegetables you like to eat and how much space you have. Large vegetables like melons and squash and some varieties of cucumbers require a lot space for vines to spread. The backs of all seed packets tell you how far apart they need to be placed.


11. Purchase seeds or flats of seedlings from your local discount, home improvement store, nursery or online retailer. Vegetables that grow well from seed sown outdoors include peas, radishes, carrots, corn, lettuce and spinach. Vegetables that grow better if started with a seedling are cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and squash.


12. Transplant the seedlings into the prepared plot or containers after danger of frost has passed, cutting a small hold in the weed block if necessary. For vegetables that grow along the ground, such as squash, be sure to plant them on "mounds" to prevent flooding. If your area is windy or prone to temperature drops, consider hot caps for the seedlings when they are tiny to keep them warm until they become established and acclimated to the outside air.


13. Water seedlings after they are in the ground, then cover the area around the base of the seedling with mulch. Mound the mulch so that it prevents water from pooling around the stem of the plant.


14. Place stakes or trellises near those vegetables that will need support as they grow: tomatoes, peas, and certain varieties of cucumbers.


15. Create a waterproof plant label and place it in the dirt near the plant or at the head of a row containing the same vegetables. (Plastic knives make inexpensive markers.)


16. Consider adding vegetable-specific fertilizer to certain plants that can benefit from the extra nutrients. Powdered fertilizer you dissolve in water then distribute is available for corn and asparagus. Slow-release ground pellets or spikes are available to boost tomatoes and give them just the right amount of nutrients all season long.


Watering


17.Set up sprinklers or soaker hoses on your plot in such a way that all areas receive an equal amount of water.


18. Consider adding a programmable timer to your outside faucet that automatically turns the water on and off according to a daily schedule.


19. Consider adding a rain barrel to your property to collect rain water that you can then distribute through hoses to your garden.


20. Monitor the garden for drainage problems. If you notice a section pooling water, dig a ditch from that area to a lower area to help the water drain off better. A garden with mounded beds and valley walkways between rows usually maintains good drainage.


Maintenance


21. Check your plants' progress daily. Check the soil conditions to see if more or less water is needed.


22. Check for pests that will eat your plants or vegetables. Pick off any you see and kill by hand.


23. Try to avoid pesticides. They kill beneficial insects, such a bees, that are necessary for pollination. Aphids can be removed from leaves with a squirt of soapy water.


24. Consider organic pest control solutions, such as lady bugs. If you don't have enough ladybugs in your area, they are available at garden nurseries and online suppliers.

Tags: Consider adding, that grow, vegetable garden, vegetables like, areas where

Ways To Recycle Water At Home

The U.S. Geological Survey estimates that the average American uses 80 to 100 gallons of water per day. Most of this water is used to flush toilets and take showers and baths. Even though 70 percent of the planet is covered in water, only 3 percent is fresh water, and only 1 percent is available as drinking water. Recycling water at home is a way that you can help conserve. Does this Spark an idea?

Drinking and Pet Water


Look for ways to reuse water that would otherwise go down the drain. Don't toss leftover water from a bottle or a glass into the sink. Recycle it by watering your indoor plants, or add it to your pet's water bowl. The same can be done with ice cubes. When you give your pet fresh water, use the old water to water trees or shrubs outdoors. When you clean out a fish bowl or tank, give the nutrient-rich water to your outdoor plants.


Greywater


Greywater can be recycled and is defined as any water that has been used in the home for wash purposes, except water from toilets. Place plastic bowls in kitchen and bathroom sinks to collect water used while washing dishes, rinsing fruit and vegetables or cleaning your hands. Use this water to flush your toilet or water indoor and outdoor plants. A large bucket placed in the corner of the shower is another effective means of catching water for recycling purposes. Place the bucket under the bath-tub faucet or showerhead when you are waiting for the water to warm up. When washing your car, place your vehicle in a location where the water runoff will water the lawn or other plants. Wash your car directly on the lawn if you can. Soapy water won't harm your lawn, so toss it on the grass when you're finished. You can also purchase greywater systems commercially to use in your home.


Do not let greywater stand for more than 24 hours to prevent bacterial growth. If you fear that collected greywater may be greasy, add a few drops of lemon dish soap to the water to ensure that you will not harm your plants or the environment when watering.


Rainwater


Another recycling option is to harvest rainwater. You can use rain barrels to collect roof runoff and then water the garden, water your lawn or economically wash your car with the collected water. Rain gutters and heating or air-conditioning outflows can also be directed toward grass or hedges.

Tags: fresh water, harm your, only percent, outdoor plants, this water, water from, water only

Monday, December 28, 2015

Fun Teambuilding Games

Teambuilding games help build rapport and promote an effective work environment.


Fun teambuilding games are an effective way to develop creative problem solving skills and promote innovative thinking. Teambuilding games can be a means to brainstorm for new ideas as well as to build rapport among coworkers. The following are three different teambuilding games that are fun, challenging, and encourage meaningful discussion as a part of the follow up and debriefing process.


Multi-Way Tug-of-War


This game requires some physical strength, but is ultimately successful with the use of creative and effective problem solving strategies. Set up the game with one steel ring, four steel connectors and four pieces of equal length rope. Attach the connectors to the ends of each piece of rope and to the steel ring. Lay the ropes out straight to form a perfect "X." Make four finishing lines--an equal distance from the center ring--with colored tape or spray paint. Divide the group into four teams of equal number and physical strength. Give the teams five minutes to strategize before you start round one. To begin the game, have the teams lift their ropes and pull just enough to remove any slack. Be sure the center ring is not moved in any direction to create an advantage for one team over the others. Next, sound a whistle and let the teams attack the challenge. You may want to do several rounds with a few minutes in between for the teams to evaluate and strategize again. Debrief with a discussion about how their strategies could be applied to other situations in the work environment.


Keypunch


This game requires team cooperation and evaluation to improve performance. Prepare the game by creating 30 cards labeled with the numbers 1 through 30. The numbers should be large enough to see easily and heavy enough to not slip or be blown around by the movement. Sheets of 8 ½ x 11-inch cardboard cut into quarter sections works well. Set up the game by placing the numbers randomly in a predefined area of the room. You may want to mark off the keypad area with a boundary rope. Divide the group into teams and have them gather several yards away from the keypad area. You can define the gathering area with another boundary rope.


The object of the game is for the players to touch all the numbered "keys" in ordered sequence, i.e., 1 through 30, as quickly as they can. If any number is touched out of order, they have to start over. Note that only one person may be in the keypad area at a time, but all members of the team must participate. Time each team’s attempt and record it visibly so everyone can see the scores. Give each team at least three attempts.


This game is more fun if you set up a scenario. For example, there is a computer virus and the team has to disinfect it by coding in the correct numbers. Build tension with your storyline such as if the ordering of the numbers is incorrect, all the data will be lost, etc.


Debrief with a discussion about the skills and strategies that worked best and how well the teams worked to solve the problem.


Toxic Waste


The object of this game is to figure out move a small container full of "toxic waste" to a neutralization container within various limitations. Set up the scene with a circle defined by a rope that is eight feet or more in diameter. This is the toxic waste radiation zone. No one is allowed inside this zone, but if they do enter it, they will suffer physical damage or even death. Place another, larger bucket, as far away from the circle as possible (but keep it in the same room). This is the neutralization center. Place bungee cords and shorter pieces of rope randomly outside the circle. Make sure you have enough for each person in the group to have one set.


Next, set the group to the challenge. Explain that they have only 20 minutes to neutralize the toxic waste by transferring it from the small bucket to the larger bucket and that after 20 minutes, the toxic waste will explode and everyone will be killed. No one can enter the toxic zone without severe physical damage or even death. If someone’s body parts cross the rope line, create a handicap for him such as blindfolding him, tying his hands behind his back, etc. If someone crosses over the line completely, have him "die" by sitting out for the rest of the game. Give the group five minutes to plan before you start the clock.


Solution: Attach the cords to the bungee loop and then guide the bungee to grab onto the bucket. With everyone coordinating the tightness on their ropes, they can move the bucket to the neutralizing space and transfer the water. Debrief them with a discussion at the end of the game.

Tags: keypad area, This game, with discussion, area with, away from, before start, boundary rope

Make A Barrel Train

Learn use some empty steel barrels to make a fun ride for kids.


Make a train ride for kids out of a bunch of old steel 55-gallon barrels. Use tools around the house and purchased from home improvement or automotive shops to customize the steel barrels and make them safe from the children to sit in. The train will move when pulled by a standard lawn tractor, which acts as the train's engine. There are wheel axle and wheel kits that you can purchase to make it easier to attach the wheels to each car. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Place a clean, empty, steel 55-gallon drum on its side and place cinder blocks or bricks on either side to keep it from rolling as you work. Draw a line with a marker around the side of the barrel that is facing up to mark the section you will cut out for the child to climb inside the barrel. This opening should go along the length of the barrel from either end, and be about 2 feet wide.


2. Cut along the line you drew carefully with a jig saw to remove the section and expose the inside of the barrel. Use an electric sander or the sanding wheel on a drill to sand away the rough, sharp edges where you made the cut. The edge needs to be free of burrs and smooth so the children will not get hurt. Cut and sand each barrel about six or seven barrels to make up the train.


3. Turn over the barrel so that the side opposite the opening is facing up. Weld a long steel, double-ended eye pin along the middle of the barrel with a channel iron. This will be the way the train cars link together.


4. Weld the wheel axle perpendicular to the middle bar near the back of the car, and attach the wheels to either end of the axle by inserting bolts into the holes at the ends of the axle and through the holes in the wheels. Tighten a nut on the ends of the bolts with a wrench. Turn the car over so it is sitting on the wheels. Prop up the other end with cinder blocks.


5. Paint the inside and outside of the barrels with automotive spray paint primer and wait eight hours for the primer to dry. Spray on two coats of the color of paint you want each "train car" to be, and wait eight hours between each coat. Apply a coat of clear spray varnish to protect the paint and wait 12 hours for it to dry.


6. Put a 2-inch-long bolt through the link on one end of a chain that is 4 inches long. The links on the chain should be at least a half-inch thick. Hold the bolt in place with a nut twisted up against the chain and the bottom of the head of the bolt.


7. Insert another 2-inch-long bolt through the other end of the chain and put the bolt through the eye pin at the back of the barrel. Twist a bolt onto the nut to secure it to the eye pin. Use the bolt on the other end of the chain to hook it up to the eye pin in the front of the barrel behind it.

Tags: barrels make, bolt through, 2-inch-long bolt, 2-inch-long bolt through, attach wheels, barrel that, cinder blocks

Rain Barrels & Colorado Laws

Skyline in Colorado


The constitution of Colorado declares that all water falling within its boundaries is property of the state. Senate Bill 09-080, passed during the 2009 legislative session, allows for limited collection and use of rainwater by landowners meeting specific criteria.


Landowners


Landowners are permitted to collect rainwater if their property is residential and if they own a well or are entitled to own a well. The well must have a permit and be allowed for domestic use only.


Lack of water supply


If you are a well owner, you must also be in an area that is not serviced by a local municipal water supplier to be eligible to harvest rainwater. New construction may qualify if it is outside a city water service area.


Roof


Rainwater must be harvested only from the roof of your home, and not from barns or outbuildings. The total rooftop area from which rainwater and snowmelt is harvested may not exceed 3,000 square feet.


Uses


The water collected from the rooftop may be used only for the purposes stated in the homeowner's well permit. This is usually stated as household use, which means drinking water and household sanitation only.


Fees


If you have a current well permit, there is no charge to apply for a water catchment permit. If your well does not have a current permit and was in use prior to 1972, there is a $100 charge for this permit.

Tags: have current, there charge, well permit

Diy Barrel Fish Farm

A circulating aquaculture system can be a good source of local fish.


As urban gardens become more common in the U.S., a barrel fish farm can be used to raise fish in an urban environment without a natural body of water nearby. Systems like these require preparation and quite a few materials to create the correct ecosystem, but once established can be a source for locally-raised fish nearly anywhere and can also be a source of income. A system like this can be built indoors, but it could leak or become too heavy for floors to support. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Construction


1. Rinse the barrels, then fill them with hot water and let them sit overnight. In the morning, drain the barrels and repeat if there are lingering chemical residues apparent. If the barrels have lids, cut off the lids, leaving the rims intact.


2. Wash the insides of the barrels using warm soapy water. If possible, rinse them using a power washer at a car wash. Fill the barrels with hot water and let them sit overnight again.


3. Place the barrels in a triangle formation on the site where you will set up your aquaculture farm. Mark where the barrels are closest to each other just below the rims, and then mark a second spot on each barrel 6 inches below the original mark.


4. Drill six 2.25-inch-holes in each barrel at both of the marks. Be sure you hold the drill perpendicular to the barrel to get even holes.


5. Attach the male adapters to the ends of three of the 3-inch pieces of 2-inch PVC.


6. Place the male adapter in the lower 2.25-inch hole from the outside of the barrel and gently screw on the female adapter, attaching to it from the inside of the barrel. Do not fully tighten the female adapters yet. Repeat with each barrel to attach all three barrels to each other on both ends of the PVC pipes, forming a triangle. Check before proceeding to make sure everything is lined up properly and none of the pipes or barrels are bent.


7. Remove the female and male adapters and wipe the adapters and PVC pipes clean. Brush PVC primer on the surfaces where the male adapters and the PVC pipe connect and allow it to dry. Once dry, brush on the PVC cement and reconnect the pieces. Allow the connection between the PVC pipes and the adapters to dry for 20 minutes.


8. Wrap the ends of the male adapters with plumber's tape, and cover the tape with silicon sealant. Repeat Step 6 with each of the PVC pipes, only this time tighten the adapters as much as possible. Allow the sealants to dry for 24 hours.


9. Connect a T fitting to one end of each of the 20-inch pieces of PVC pipe so that one branch of the T is perpendicular to the pipe and the second lines up with the pipe. Attach the 3-inch pieces of PVC to both of the branches of the T fittings. Place the three assemblies inside each of the barrels, and position them so the perpendicular part of the T is poking through the higher 2.25-inch hole. Ensure the tanks are properly positioned before moving on to the next step.


Filling the Barrels


10. Fill the first barrel, the filter barrel, with gravel until it is 3/4 full. Place the rough cloth on top of the gravel, and fill the barrel the rest of the way with oyster shells. Fill and drain the barrel with water until the water runs clear. Afterward, add the soils to the top of the filter barrel.


11. Sprinkle all three barrels with slugs and compost and fill them to the top with pond water. Add aquatic plants to any of the barrels you wish.


12. Attach the air stone to the air line, and attach the other end to the air pump. Slide the stone-end of the line down the T pipe of the barrel you plan to store your fish in. Store the air pump so it is above the water-level of the barrels. Turn on the air pump and let the system run for a few days before introducing fish.


13. Place the screens on the pipes that enter and exit the barrel where you will store your fish so fish cannot escape. Carefully place the fish inside the barrel. Based on the species of fish you wish to raise, you may have to modify the water temperatures first. Consult the distributor where you purchase your fish on temperature and food information for your fish species.


14. Monitor the fish for the first few days to make sure they are adapting to the system. Feed them daily, giving them fish food formulated for their species.

Tags: male adapters, your fish, each barrel, with water, 25-inch hole

Find Used Camping Tents

Tents are one of the most expensive pieces of camping equipment that you need to have and isn't really something you can do without. What's a camper to do? Luckily for all of us, used tents are readily available. Many people have thought they're going to like camping, so they buy all the supplies, and then only go once or twice or never in some cases. Eventually those tents get sold at yard sales and other places to us poor, but camp-loving fanatics.


Instructions


1. One of the best sources for a used tent is your friends and family. Many people have tents laying around that they haven't used in years. They may be willing to just give one to you. It never hurts to ask. If not, they may know a place where there is one you can purchase cheaply. Just be aware that if the tent is old it may need some minor repairs and need the seams resealed. Check the shock-cords (if it has them) to make sure the elastic is still good and won't snap the first time you try to use them. Also, make sure all the pieces are there.


2. Another good source to find a used tent is Craigslist. Check on here often, but also make sure to post in the wanted section. People frequently forget that they have something until you remind them of it. There may be tents on Craigslist year around but the best time to find used tents is at the beginning of spring as people buy new equipment and get rid of the old.


3. Asking on your local Freecycle just may find you a tent someone has lying around in their garage. Even if it needs minor repairs, good tents are expensive so they can still be a good deal.


4. Garage sales and flea markets are great sources of used tents as well. I've found at least four good tents this way, but the best was a brand new, several hundred dollar tent for $10. Even if you don't see a tent when looking around, ask the person running the sale. Frequently, tents aren't set up for display because they take up too much room. This can lead to them being stuck under stuff and left unnoticed. A buying tip is to ask how much it is before even really looking at it. The owner may not even remember what it looks like and so may give you a better deal. If it more than you want to pay after you see the tent you don't have to buy it or the owner may give you a better deal when you hesitate. Do make sure that everything is there before you buy though. It may even be a good idea to set the tent up if there is room. Most tents won't have a picture with them showing what the tent looks like set up so setting the tent up will let you know what shape and size it is as well as if all the pieces are and how easy or hard it is to set up. Make sure you know the price of the tent before doing this or it will cause the price to shoot right up as the owner will get lots of offers and believe you are desperate to have the tent.


5. If you want an expensive tent for a good price the best place to get it is a sporting goods store that rents tents. REI usually does this and there are a few others. Some of the tents may have seen hard use but are frequently top of the line. They usually only rent new tents because they are trying to sell the new models and renters will often come back and buy. That means at the end of the main camping season they get rid of the rental tents and get new models. Get friendly with your neighborhood REI to find out when this is happening and get in on it. Like any rental item, the tents may have seen hard use by people with little knowledge of camping (I had to set up a tent once for someone who rented a tent and had no clue set it up.), this may mean there are a hole or two or a broken pole in the most used of the batch. Luckily, these are easy fixes. Four-season tents may be the best of deals. They are usually the least used tents of all because most beginners don't go camping in the snow and if they do don't know they should use a special tent. Since there's not much difference other than a little weight and them being stronger, a four-season tent can be the best to choose.

Tags: used tents, make sure, tents have, because they, better deal, find used, give better

Friday, December 25, 2015

Rainwater Facts

The water cycle is an essential process that starts with the formation of rainwater.


Rainwater is an essential part of life, and without it, life on Earth would cease to exist. Rainwater is formed by a relatively complex system known as the water cycle. Rainfall can be seen on pretty much any part of the globe. Rain and other forms of precipitation from the water cycle contributes to 71 percent of the total amount of water volume on Earth.


Formation


Rain droplets begin to form through the water cycle process. Water from the ocean evaporates and rises into the Earth's atmosphere. Plants that undergo transpiration (the process in which leaves sweat, creating vapor that ascends into the atmosphere) bring more moisture into the air. The combination of ocean water and plant vapor creates condensation--or the process in which vapor changes back into water. It is these small water droplets that collect together to form clouds. As the cloud expands in size and proportion, the water particles begin to rapidly bang into each other, sticking together to form even bigger water drops. As the water drops get heavier, gravity pulls them down, creating larger droplets that hit the ground.


Types of Rainwater


Rainwater is a type of precipitation, which is defined by the U.S. Geological Survey as water released from clouds in the form of rain, freezing rain, sleet, snow or hail. When water precipitates, it can come in different shapes, sizes and forms of intensity. Drizzle is very small rain droplets that are uniformly dispersed. Drizzle normally falls from low stratus clouds accompanied by low visibility and fog. Moderate rainwater falls heavier than drizzle and usually at the rate of 11 inches to 30 inches per hour. Heavy rainwater is larger droplets that fall about 30 inches or more per hour.


Freezing Rainwater


Rainwater that falls, but freezes upon hitting the ground is called freezing rain. As the rainwater hits the ground--which is generally below freezing temperatures--the water droplets immediately freeze over, appearing as a coating of glaze. Rainwater that comes from cumulonimbus clouds falls in large raindrops. During strong wind updrafts, rainwater that drops up above the freezing level in the clouds freezes and is heavy enough to drop. According to FAQ Kids, when rainwater falls under these conditions, rain freezes to form large ice balls known as hail, or smaller ice pellets known as sleet. Extreme cold weather rainwater forms snowflakes. The University of Texas says, "Snow is produced in supercooled clouds when water vapor is deposited as ice crystals that remain frozen during its descent down to the ground, which goes through several layers of sub-freezing air."


Environmental Benefits


Rainwater produced from the water cycle helps to regulate climate and temperature changes throughout the Earth's atmosphere. Rainwater provides steady hydration that is the main source of survival for all plants and animals. Rainwater also reduces equator heat and disperses it throughout the rest of the planet. Without rainwater, Earth would be uninhabitable. Rainwater is needed to regulate all life cycles.


Drinking Rainwater


Rainwater is what humans, animals and plants need to survive. Drinking water comes from rainwater, which comes from ocean and groundwater. Groundwater comes from rainwater that penetrates into ground or sedimentary rock. According to the American Ground Water Trust, "all ground water is slowly on the move and will eventually reach the ocean, wetland streams or lake. Rivers receive about half their flow from ground water." Ground water can be up to a thousand years old, and U.S. groundwater can be up to a few months old before it is extracted as drinking water. Light rainwater won't penetrate the ground but rather, it will evaporate or get used up by plants.

Tags: water cycle, comes from, droplets that, Rainwater Rainwater, comes from rainwater, Earth atmosphere, Earth would

Straw To Your Concrete Mix For Better Insulation

Mixing concrete poorly can become a costly mistake.


There are different ways to insulate and strengthen concrete walls. Forms of Polystyrene, for example, serve two purposes: creating a mold for concrete pouring and acting as an air barrier to better insulate your home. Natural materials, such as straw, also can improve the performance of concrete walls. Adding straw to the concrete mix before pouring helps reinforce the bonds between the aggregate and cement, and it creates air pockets that improve insulating properties like an air-entraining agent. The mixture also retains moisture, which slows the curing process and improves the final strength of the wall. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Put on the safety goggles, a breathing mask, thick gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, pants and shoes with reinforced toes.


2. Place the bale on a tarp or concrete surface.


3. Saw the bale into thirds with the chainsaw. Set aside two-thirds of the bale.


4. Cut through the remaining third of the bale with the chainsaw to divide the pieces into 4- to 6-inch lengths.


5. Transfer the bale pieces to a wheel barrow by hand. Cut the straw as you transfer it to ensure every piece is 4- to 6-inches long.


6. Mist the straw lightly with a hose to keep the pieces from flying away.


7. Pour concrete powder into a concrete mixer or wheel barrel.


8. Add straw gradually to the mix as you make concrete. Stir and incorporate one-third of the bale of chopped straw in to the mixture for every cubic yard of concrete mix.


9. Use a cup or bucket to add water in small amounts. Add just enough water to keep the concrete mixture pourable; too much water can weaken the concrete mixture.

Tags: concrete mixture, concrete walls, with chainsaw

Save Water For The Future

The average American uses 100 gallons of water each day.


Much of our planet is covered in water, yet many countries struggle with water availability. According to the EPA the average American uses about 100 gallons of water daily. We use it to cook, clean our homes and bathe. Conserving water for future generations is important. There are many ways you can save water and still get all of your day-to-day tasks completed, you just need to make a few changes in your water usage. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Turn off your faucets. Don't leave your faucets running while you are washing dishes, or brushing your teeth. It is better to fill the sink to wash and rinse dishes than it is to leave the water running. Likewise, wet your toothbrush when you brush your teeth, turn the water off and turn it back on to rinse and spit.


2. Install water saving faucets and appliances. Even if you can't convert everything in your home at once, changing things over little by little can make a huge difference. A shower head that does not conserve water can use 20 gallons of water per five minutes. Compare that to a water saving shower head using 10 gallons per five minutes and you have cut the consumption for that point-of-use in half. Older toilets use 5 gallons per flush, newer toilets use only 1.6. If you have a dishwasher, run it with a full load only. If you are looking at new dishwashers, do your research and choose one that is efficient. The newer front loading washing machines are more water efficient than top loading machines.


3. Collect water. Use a bucket to collect water when waiting for your shower to heat up. Use rain barrels to collect water outside. Use the water you collect for your lawn and garden.


4. Sweep your driveway, walkway or patio rather than cleaning it with your hose.


5. Aerate your lawn so the water from rain seeps into the soil and reaches the roots of trees and plants. To do this punch holes about six inches apart across the span of your lawn.


6. Fix leaky faucets and plumbing. Check if your toilet is leaking by adding a few drops of red food coloring into the tank. If the water in your toilet turns red after 30 minutes without using it, your have a leak.

Tags: gallons water, your lawn, American uses, average American, average American uses

Thursday, December 24, 2015

Create An Xbox Video Game

There's no limit to what you can create virtually, except your willingness to work hard and learn new things.


The Xbox 360 is one of a small handful of gaming consoles that dominate the modern video game world, and their games are considered some of the finest examples of virtual entertainment ever produced. To create these games, teams of experts in the fields of programming, sound engineering, graphic design and animation work nonstop for months (or longer) to execute the vision of the artistic director.


It's not impossible to build your own Xbox video game, it's just extremely hard; luckily, there are programs and communities designed specifically to help you.


Instructions


The Software


1. Download and install the C# Express Developer's Kit and the XNA Game Studio Express.


They're both built on the industry-standard C++ programming language, and are the only programs available to non-industry civilians capable of creating an Xbox game.


2. Download and install the XNA framework. It will allow you to test and troubleshoot your games during the creation process.


3. Test out both programs thoroughly before beginning the game creation process, especially the ability of the programs to save your work.


Programming the Game


4. Code a physics engine for your game with the C# Express software. The physics engine dictates how your characters will exist within your virtual universe, and what laws they will follow; gravity, inertia and all the rest are up to your interpretation.


If you're not familiar with the C++ programming language, educate yourself on it thoroughly with online tutorials or the more traditional how-to book.


5. Build models for your characters and objects. These are colorless, featureless 3D virtual cutouts of your heroes and villains (and any other characters) that you'll later use to populate your game.


This is also the time to build models for genre-specific objects, like the guns for the first-person shooter, or the sword your third-person action hero will wield.


6. Texture your characters and objects with either included XNA texturing material, or your own art. Spend some serious time on this part, as the visual elements of a game more often than not make or break a player's reaction to the game as a whole.


7. Animate your characters and objects according to their function within the game's environment.


Consider the most realistic approach to animation possible for maximum believability in your game. For example, a discharging weapon will shake, a charging four-legged animal often lowers its head when about to strike, and the view from human eyes tends to bob and weave while walking.


8. Build the different levels of your game. This includes the backdrop scenery, the interactive foreground scenery (like trees, water, rocks, doors, boxes, and the like), and any environmental effects like mist, clouds, rain, snow and so on.


Again, the more realistic your programming, the better the response from your players is likely to be. Watch how water or tree branches move in real-time while animating them to get the best possible effect.


Aesthetics, Sound and Finalization


9. Create or have an artist create for you the visual artistry of your game; everything visual in a game needs to be designed by an artist, including each and every character, weapon, vehicle, enemy, background, foreground, box and barrel.


Once you have your art, apply it to the appropriate areas in the programming to create the look of the game.


10. Find or record sound effects for each aspect of your game, and don't forget anything. Every footstep, door lock, weapon holster, enemy cry and electronic bleep needs to have its own voice provided by you.


Use high-quality sound effects for your game, as low-quality ones will distract the player from their immersion in your game.


11. Join the XNA Creator's Club. You'll be able to upload your game to their website to be tested out by other community members for playability and any bugging issues. Occasionally, homemade games like yours are chosen to be featured in big-time gaming venues like E3 and Game Informer Magazine.

Tags: your game, your characters, characters objects, your characters objects, creation process, Download install

Find A Replacement Part For A Portsmouth Solar Bird Bath

You'll enjoy the company of many birds with a Portsmouth Solar Birdbath.


Portsmouth Solar Birdbaths are sold by a company called Smart Solar, which specializes in solar-powered garden products. The Portsmouth Solar Birdbath doesn't hook up to household electricity. It's powered by solar energy. Some of the parts include a solar panel, a pump system, a water pump and a filter. Also, this birdbath comes with a one year warranty. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Check the date of your Portsmouth Solar Birdbath purchase. If it has been less than a year since the purchase, your warranty may cover the replacement part you need. Contact Smart Solar. A link to the email support form is located in the "Resources" section.


2. Visit the Smart Solar website if your warranty has expired or doesn't cover the part you need to replace. Select your country or region.


3. Click "Solar Home & Garden" from the menu on the left side of the screen at smartsolar.com. From the top menu, click "Customer Service."


4. Click the "Spare Parts" button on the left side of the page or from the drop-down menu under "Customer Service."


5. Scroll through the replacement parts and choose the category for the type of replacement part you need. For example, if you need a replacement solar panel for your Portsmouth Solar Birdbath, click "Replacement Solar Panels."


6. Click the option that corresponds with the replacement solar-powered birdbath part you need. Only the company's newest version of parts are displayed, so if you don't see the part you need, contact Smart Solar using the email support form under the "Customer Service" tab.


7. Click "+ Cart" to add the replacement part to your cart. Next, click "Checkout using Credit Card."


8. Provide your contact information and your shipping address to order the replacement product for your Portsmouth Solar Birdbath. Click "Next Step."


9. Provide your payment information. Click "Purchase." The replacement part for your Portsmouth Solar Birdbath will be shipped to you.

Tags: Portsmouth Solar, Portsmouth Solar Birdbath, Solar Birdbath, part need, Smart Solar, your Portsmouth

Downspout Irrigation For A Flower Bed

Keeping gutters and downspouts clear of debris facilitates rainwater collection.


When rain hits a roof, it falls off the drip line of a house or it is diverted by gutters and downspouts. Either way, rainwater settles into the ground around the perimeter of a house, often just a few inches from its foundation. Using downspouts to irrigate a flower bed creates a floral aesthetic and protects a home's foundation from moisture. Does this Spark an idea?


Rain Gardens


Irrigating a flower bed with rainwater runoff uses a renewable resource that is channeled into the landscape instead of into storm drains and retention ponds. Rain gardens are not bog gardens. Rain gardens fill with water that soaks into the ground without creating pools of standing water. Since mosquito larvae require standing water to mature, rain gardens are not breeding grounds for them. Instead, flower beds established in rain gardens attract birds and butterflies.


Design Basics


Rain garden flower beds should be sited at least 10 feet away from a home's foundation and away from septic tanks. Attaching a flexible extension to the bottom of a downspout and covering it with mulch or burying it underground hides it from view. If the rain garden is located on a slope, building a raised berm at the low side of the garden helps retain water and prevents erosion. Stones placed around the base of the berm anchor it more firmly in place.


Flowers


Native plants and water-loving plants are good selections for rain gardens. Plants with "swamp" in their names, such as swamp hibiscus (Hibiscus coccineus), swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) and swamp sunflower (Helianthus angustifolius), are sound choices. Any plant that can endure periods of temporary flooding alternating with periods of drought will withstand conditions in rain garden flower beds. University extension offices maintain lists of plants by region that are best suited for growing in rain gardens.


Rain Barrels


Rain barrels also provide downspout irrigation for flower beds. Rain directed by downspouts into rain barrels is collected and used to water plantings during periods of drought. Faucets installed at the base of rain barrels can release water into buckets for spot watering or can connect to soaker hoses, or weep hoses. Barrels can be installed as stand-alone collectors or as an intermediate step in the irrigation of a rain garden. Overflow pipes installed near the top of rain barrels can channel excess water into the rain garden while the barrel acts as a reservoir for irrigating other plants outside the rain garden during drought.

Tags: flower beds, rain garden, rain gardens, away from, garden flower, garden flower beds, gardens Rain

Paint A Wood Drum

Paint a wooden drum like any other wooden item.


Although drum shells may seem fairly basic, they actually feature a rather complex construction. They can be made out of a number of different materials, the most common being wood, metal, and acrylic plastic, in that order. Wooden drums are often coated with a clear coat of epoxy to show off the natural grain of the wood, but you can also paint a wood drum to freshen it up or personalize it.


Instructions


1. Rub a piece of 180-grit sandpaper lightly across the wood surface of the drum to remove any nicks or imperfections from the wood.


2. Pour a small amount of a concentrated cleaning solution onto a rag and rub over the surface of the wood to remove any dust or dirt.


3. Pour a small amount of primer into a plastic container, dip a paintbrush in and allow any excess paint to drip off the brush before moving it to the surface of the drum.


4. Brush primer evenly over the entire wood surface.


5. Rinse your paintbrush and wait for the primer to dry completely. Typically, this takes only a few hours; refer to the instructions to be sure.


6. Pour a small amount of paint into a plastic container, dip your paintbrush in and allow any excess paint to drip off the brush before moving it to the surface of the drum.


7. Brush paint evenly over the entire wood surface.


8. Wait for the paint to dry completely. Typically, this takes only a few hours; refer to the instructions to be sure.


9. Paint a second coat to ensure a smooth, solid finish.

Tags: Pour small, Pour small amount, small amount, surface drum, wood surface, allow excess, allow excess paint

Wednesday, December 23, 2015

Overwater Tomato Plants

Too much water can damage or kill tomatoes.


Overwatering your tomato plants can cause ripe fruit to split or even kill them. However, it can be difficult to tell how much water to give them since the amount varies, depending on factors like the kind of tomato you're growing, the soil and the climate. Cutting back on the water will also result in sweeter tasting fruit. Soil should be kept moist, but not flooded. Does this Spark an idea?


Requirements


Tomatoes planted outdoors in a garden should be watered once or twice a week. Plants need about 1 inch of water every week during the spring and at least 2 inches per week during the summer. Soak the ground to a depth of around 6 to 8 inches, then don't water them again until the top 2 inches of soil starts to dry. Cover the ground around your tomatoes with mulch to help retain moisture during the hot summer months.


Symptoms


Tomatoes that are overwatered have pale green or yellow leaves because the plants can't absorb iron. In addition, the lower leaves drop off and the fruit doesn't grow well. Ripening fruit will split.


Time


Water your tomato plants early in the morning. If you wait until afternoon, the hot sun, shining on the water, will burn the leaves.


Types


The most efficient way to water your tomatoes is by drip irrigation because it uses less than half the water that other methods use. You can also water your tomatoes with a garden hose, but lay the hose on the ground and avoid spraying the plants. Using a sprinkler system isn't a good idea because when the leaves get wet, the tomato becomes more susceptible to disease.


Water Crystals


Tomatoes growing in pots usually need daily watering during the hottest part of the summer. Hanging tomatoes dry out even more and need additional water. You can help reduce the chance of overwatering your plants by using water crystals. Water crystals are synthetic polymers that you mix into the potting soil. They can store up to 400 times their weight in water, releasing it to your plants when the soil dries out. In addition to saving water, they reduce the amount of nutrients that leach out of the soil.


Saving Water


Recycle the final rinse water from your washing machine and use it on your tomato plants. Collect water in a rain barrel and use it to water your garden. An inch of rain can provide around 1,250 gallons of water if collected from the roof of a 2,000-square-foot house.

Tags: your tomato, your tomato plants, your tomatoes, during summer, much water, tomato plants, tomatoes with

Qualities Of A Good Wine

Qualities of a Good Wine


Wine tasting is a highly subjective art. Different varietals appeal to tasters for different reasons. For instance, if you prefer sweet white wines, an inexpensive Riesling may taste better to you than a high-quality Chardonnay. However, there are some general characteristics of good wine, which with practice and experience you may learn to discern in any vintage that you quaff. Add this to my Recipe Box.


Excellent Vintage & High Grape Quality


In general, the best wines come from the best quality grapes. Many types of wine grapes are grown all over the world, and the climate of a particular region can have an enormous effect on the taste of the finished wine. For instance, a California Merlot will taste quite different from a French one. This is why some regions are famous for producing great examples of certain wine varietals. Weather also strongly impacts the quality of a given wine-this is why some years (or vintages) of a particular wine are considered better than others. If a vineyard has been cursed with poor weather, the resulting wine may be equally poor, as excessive rain, hail or sun may cause the grapes to develop badly-or even rot. If you are interested in a wine, check to see which year(s) produced particularly fine vintages-and which did not. You should also check to see where the wine is from. Spanish Riojas are famously delightful; Oregon Riojas aren't.


No Faults


Even wines made from high-quality grapes may have faults that make the wine borderline undrinkable. Faults are caused by mistakes made in wine-making. Common faults include barrel taint, poor corking, excessive acetic acid, over-oxidation, over-sulfuring and hydrogen-sulphide. Barrel taint is caused by wine being stored in unclean barrels. It causes wine to taste musty. Incorrectly corked wine will also taste musty and sour. Wine containing excess acetic acid tastes vinegary, while wine that has been over-oxidized (i.e., exposed to too much air) is discolored and smells like sherry. Sulfur is sometimes used as a disinfectant in wine-making, and excess sulfur may destroy the aroma of a wine, causing it to smell like burnt matches. If wines have been incorrectly fermented or racked, they may smell like bad eggs, which is a result of hydrogen-sulphide. A good wine will never have any of these faults.


Balance & Complexity


Good wines not only taste pleasant; they also exhibit rounded, intricate flavors. When examined in the context of its type (you should never expect a Beaujolais Nouveau to taste like a aged Cabernet Sauvignon), a good wine should display not only the signature characteristics of its variety but also a personality of its own. Tannins and acids should be balanced between sweeter, deeper flavors, producing a whole that is more than the sum of its parts. A wine's complexity is judged by the number of flavors and notes that one can find in it, and is considered an important mark of quality.


Fragrant Aroma


Another important marker of wine quality is a heady aroma, or "nose." While a few good wines have bad noses, and vice versa, in general a wine's aroma is a safe predictor of its excellence (this is why some wine drinkers request to sniff the cork when ordering wine in restaurants). Aroma actually plays a significant role in how we experience flavors, and so a wine's aroma can significantly enhance our drinking experience. Before drinking your wine, swirl and sniff it. The better it smells to you, the better it will taste.


Good Scores & Reviews


The scores and reviews for a given bottle of wine may also help guide you in determining if it is right for you. In addition to the many online wine databases that contain thousands of expert and amateur wine reviews, there are also a number of esteemed wine critics who both review and score wines. Magazines like Wine Spectator and critics like Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson provide ratings and descriptions for many wines, which can be very helpful for the novice oenophile.

Tags: acetic acid, better than, good wine, Qualities Good, Qualities Good Wine, smell like

Build A V8 Engine For Fuel Mileage

One, or a pair of turbos, can give your small-displacement motor enough versatility to produce impressive horsepower and fuel economy.


There are many different ways to build an engine, but performance in any arena generally boils down to one thing: efficiency. Most automobile engines extract only 30 percent of the energy contained in the gasoline they consume; the rest of the energy is wasted through heat, light and high-velocity exhaust gases. While the common perception is that the smallest possible engine displacement yields the best fuel economy, this is only true if the engine still produces enough power to move the vehicle. The ideal would be to build an engine that changes displacement to fit the circumstances.


Instructions


1. Acquire a used 305-cubic-inch displacement small-block Chevrolet, a 302cid (5.0-liter) Ford, or a 318 Chrysler LA-series engine. Send the engine block to a machine shop to be stripped down, cleaned and tested for cracks. Have the machine shop assemble the block using steel connecting rods, and forged 9-to-1 compression ratio pistons, powder coated with ceramic for thermal insulation. If you're aiming to build over 350 horsepower with a 305 or 318, you'll probably want to install a steel crankshaft and steel rods. You could assemble the block, but paying the extra money for an engine shop to build it will buy serious peace-of-mind.


2. Bolt a set of modern, fast burn, high-swirl cylinder heads to the engine block. For the Chevrolet, use a set of 1990s LT1 Vortec heads; the Ford should get the GT40P heads from a late-1990s Explorer, and the Chrysler 318 engine will be most efficient with a set of late-model Magnum heads. Seal the heads to the block using a set of chrome-moly head studs. Note: If you build a 318 with Magnum heads, order a set of custom-length pushrods from Mopar Performance.


3. Slide an hydraulic roller cam into the block using the widest possible lobe separation angle: at least 114 to 116 degrees. Otherwise, your cam should have about 190 degrees duration at 0.050-inch lift on the intake and exhaust, and no more than 0.300-inch lift on the intake and exhaust. Any number of stock LT1, 5.0-liter or Magnum camshafts will work, so shop around to find the smallest one available. Drop the matching aftermarket or stock roller lifters into the lifter bores, and bolt a set of fully-rollerized rocker arms to the heads. Use 1.5-to-1 rocker arms on the intake, and 1.6-to-1 rocker arms on the exhaust.


4. Bolt a long-runner, multi-point fuel injection intake manifold to the heads. For the Chevy, use a Tuned-Port Injection (TPI) setup; use a standard 5.0-liter EFI manifold on the Ford, and a late-model Magnum manifold on the Chrysler. Plug a set of stock fuel injectors into the manifold. Install the remaining fuel-injection equipment and ignition system; the procedure will vary greatly by engine.


5. Install a twin-turbo system using two small turbochargers, flowing no more than about 350 cfm (cubic-feet per minute) of air apiece. They should use internal wastegates. The aftermarket is rife with turbo kits for the Ford and Chevy engines, but kits for the Chrysler are more rare. In any case, the basic install procedure is to bolt the turbo manifolds to the heads, bolt the turbos to the manifolds, and then duct the turbo outlets to the intake throttle body, using the supplied plumbing.


6. Install a water/methanol injection kit to cool the intake charge, and provide supplemental fuel to keep the engine from exploding under boost. Installation procedures will vary by engine and kit, but generally involve inserting one or more water/methanol injectors into the boost tube, connecting the injectors to the electronic water solenoid, and running a water feed line from a reservoir tank to the solenoid.


7. Top the engine off with an electric cooling fan and electric water pump. If you can do without power steering, eliminating the power steering pump will net you noticeable improvements in fuel economy.

Tags: block using, fuel economy, rocker arms, assemble block, build engine, engine block

Tuesday, December 22, 2015

Homemade Steel Rain Barrels

A steel drum can be used to harvest rainwater.


Harvesting rainwater to use on your garden helps conserve a scarce resource. Maryland's Department of Environment estimates that around 40 percent of household water supplies are used in summer for lawns and gardens, so a rain barrel can create a big savings on your water bill. It also provides a handy source of water in your yard without the need for complex plumbing. The water you harvest is chlorine-free, making it suitable for even the most sensitive plants. A steel drum is a good choice for a rain barrel, as it can withstand extremes of temperature without distorting or cracking. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


Barrel Outlet


1. Measure a point 2 inches above the base of the steel drum. Mark this with chalk. This is where the spigot will be sited to drain harvested water from the drum. The depth below the spigot allows any sediment washed into the drum to settle at the bottom without being drawn off, keeping the water you use free from dirt and debris.


2. Drill a hole at the point where you placed your chalk mark, using a 3/4-inch bit. Remove the lid of the drum and, from the inside, push a PVC male pipe-thread adaptor through the hole you have drilled. If it will not fit, rasp around the edge of the hole with a round file until the adaptor fits snugly.


3. Screw the 3/4-inch spigot onto the thread of the adaptor, which protrudes from the drum. Before fully tightening the spigot, apply silicone sealant to the hole on the inside and outside of the drum, to ensure a drip-free outlet to your rain barrel. Tighten the spigot and allow the silicone to dry.


Barrel Inlet


4. Stand a 4-inch plastic-mesh aquatic planting pot on the lid of the steel drum. Draw around the base of the pot with chalk to leave a circular mark on the steel lid. Make sure you draw around the narrower base of the planting pot rather than its wider lip so that when a hole is cut, the pot will fit inside and be held in place by the lip at the top.


5. Drill a hole in the center of the chalk circle, using a 1/2-inch drill bit. Use a hacksaw to cut from this hole to the inside of the chalk mark and then to cut out a circle, always staying inside the guideline you have drawn.


6. Apply silicone sealant to the outer and inner edges of the hole cut in the steel lid. Place the aquatic planting pot into the hole, and allow the silicone sealant to dry around it. The plant pot provides a screened inlet to the rain barrel, which will keep out unwanted debris. Put the lid back on the drum.


7. Stick a sheet of fine-mesh window screen over the top of the inlet you have made, using PVC glue. This will prevent mosquitoes from entering the barrel and breeding in the rainwater.


Barrel Overflow


8. Measure a point 1 inch from the top of the steel drum. Mark this with chalk. This is where an overflow pipe will be sited to draw off excess water from the drum.


9. Drill a hole at the point where you placed your chalk mark, using a 3/4-inch bit. Push a PVC male pipe-thread adaptor through the hole, from the inside of the drum. Enlarge the hole by rasping with a round file if the adaptor will not fit.


10. Screw the 3/4-inch pipe-to-hose adaptor to the thread, which protrudes from the drum. Before fully tightening the adaptor, apply silicone sealant to the hole on the inside and outside of the drum. Tighten the adaptor, and allow the silicone to dry.


Barrel Siting


11. Place the steel drum beneath a rainwater down-pipe from a nearby roof. You may need to cut the down-pipe to size with a hacksaw to accommodate the drum. Avoid a site where the ground is very soft, as this may cause your rain barrel to topple over as it begins to fill.


12. Stand the drum on concrete blocks so that there is room to place a watering can underneath the spigot or to attach a hose. Raising the drum in this way also provides sufficient water pressure to make the hose effective.


13. Attach a length of garden hose to the hose adaptor on the barrel overflow. Site the hose so it will direct excess water into a nearby drain.

Tags: steel drum, rain barrel, from drum, silicone sealant, allow silicone, chalk mark, Drill hole

Prepare For A Hurricane On A Budget

Hurricane preparations do not have to break your budget.


Although most people who have lived in a coastal area for any length of time already have their hurricane supplies ready at all times, those who are new to the area must start from scratch. If you have a limited budget, pulling together the items you need can seem daunting. The good news is, hurricanes take time to develop and make landfall, so you have plenty of time, even if it is already hurricane season.


Instructions


1. Fill clean, empty plastic coffee containers with water and place them in your freezer as a source of clean drinking water and to help keep your freezer cold during power outages because of storm damage. Keep 3 to 7 gallons of clean drinking water per person in your pantry, in clean plastic containers with tight-fitting lids, to provide the three-day to seven-day supply recommended by the National Hurricane Center.


2. Place one or more sanitized 55-gallon plastic drums or 30-gallon plastic trash barrels or storage bins with tight-fitting lids on the lee side of your home, as close to the outside wall as possible, filled with clean water to use for washing or for flushing toilets. The lee side is the side away from the oncoming storm.


3. Flush and scrub all your drums, barrels or bins with hot water and dish liquid and rinse well. Sanitize them with bleach, hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alcohol or vinegar. Rinse well three to five more times before filling them with water. Do not use plastic drums, trash barrels or bins that have held any toxic chemicals.


4. Collect all deadfall in your yard and trim bushes and trees to remove any dead or broken branches. Chip or burn all the yard trimmings. Deadfall and broken branches can become projectiles in a storm.


5. Check your home and any outbuildings for loose shingles or siding. Fix any problem areas or remove them until after the storm passes.


6. Measure all windows and sliding doors for plywood sheathing, if you do not already have shutters. Recover plywood from construction sites whenever it is available. Cut it to the measurements you need and mark each piece so you know which window or door it is supposed to cover.


7. Buy drywall screws any time you see them at a garage sale or flea market. Use them instead of nails when you sheath your doors and windows. Drywall screws resist stripping when used to secure plywood because their threads are deeper than other screws.


8. Combine coupons, customer appreciation discounts, sales and rebates at pharmacies and grocery stores to purchase hygiene items such as bleach, rubbing alcohol, hand sanitizer, personal wipes, rubber gloves and disinfectants at the lowest possible price. Purchase one extra hygiene item every payday and store it with your hurricane kit.


9. Collect aluminum cans or other recyclable metals to get the money to purchase a crank-style or solar-powered radio and crank-style or "shake" flashlights, even though they cost more up front, so that you will not have to buy or store batteries.


10. Buy one extra can or waterproof package of your favorite meats, fruits, vegetables and soups every time you shop and store them in your hurricane kit. Include ready-to-drink juices, milk or milk substitutes and any items for needed for family members with special dietary needs.


11. Store one day's dose of each medication per week until you have a total of a three-day to seven-day supply of each medication you or family members need in a separate plastic zipper bag for each of them. Label each person's bag clearly with the name of the individual, the name and strength of the medication, the dosage, the time of day it is taken and the route of administration.


12. Fill a 1-gallon gas can each time you stop for gasoline. Pour the gasoline into a 5-gallon or larger gas can and store it until you are ordered to evacuate. This ensures that you will have enough gas for your vehicle without a large expense all at once.

Tags: with water, already have, barrels bins, bins with, broken branches, clean drinking, clean drinking water

Make A Rain Barrel Solar Pump

You caught the water, now move it; or let the sun do it for you.


You've collected the water in rain barrels, but now you need to move the water. Under its own power, water only moves downhill. Use a pump to move it in any other direction. A solar pump provides electricity to move the water. Pipes or hoses make a channel from the water's source to its destination. The electric pump forces the water through the channel. The pump is powered by a portable photovoltaic cell. For pumping in the dark, you need to add a battery to store the electricity converted from the sunlight. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Attach a hose to your rain barrel spigot. Make sure the spigot is closed. Attach the hose to the inflow valve on the 12-volt DC pump. Attach a second hose to the outflow valve of the pump. Put the open end of the outflow hose at the location that you want to apply your water.


2. Cut and end-strip the black wire, and attach it the negative electrical post on the pump. Attach the other end to the negative post on the 12-volt battery.


3. Cut the red piece of wire in half. Strip all four ends. Attach your toggle switch between the two pieces of wire, and cover the attachments with electrical tape.


4. Attach the remaining open ends of the red wire to the positive post on the 12-volt battery and the positive lead on the pump. If the pump begins to run, switch off the toggle to cut the circuit.


5. Connect the portable solar cell to the battery. It has positive and negative leads like jumper cables, which attach likewise to the positive and negative posts of the battery.


6. Bypass the battery, if you like. The solar cell alone will power the pump. The battery just gives you more flexibility on weather and time of day.

Tags: 12-volt battery, Attach hose, battery positive, move water, positive negative

Build A Whiskey Barrel Fountain

Make a decorative fountain out of a whiskey barrel.


Whiskey barrel fountains add rustic character to your outdoor space. You can build a whiskey barrel fountain from full or half barrels to stand as a focal point in your yard or as an addition to a flower bed. One of the simplest whiskey barrel designs you can make is a bubbling fountain without any decorative elements. Get creative and add eclectic elements to enhance the fountain design, such as bamboo stalks, copper-tubing art or an old fountain pump. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Cut a sheet of plastic pond liner to cover the inside of the whiskey barrel. Place the plastic liner inside the barrel and attach it to the top inside rim with a staple gun. The plastic liner makes the whiskey barrel watertight.


2. Place the whiskey barrel in the desired location of your water fountain. Moving the whiskey barrel after adding the decorative elements is not practical.


3. Cut two stalks of bamboo 3 feet longer than the height of the whiskey barrel, using the hacksaw. The bamboo stalks should be at least 1-inch in diameter.


4. Run a bead of waterproof construction adhesive straight down one side of the interior of the whiskey barrel on top of the plastic liner. Press one of the bamboo stalks to the adhesive. Attach the stalk to the top inside rim of the whiskey barrel with a metal U-bracket, using the screwdriver and screws.


5. Drill a 1/2-inch hole through one side of the remaining bamboo stalk, 6 inches from one end. Do not drill the hole through both sides of the stalk. Drill a 1/2-inch hole 4 inches from the opposite end of the same pole, on the same side of the pole as the first hole. Do not drill through both sides of the stalk. These are the access holes for the plastic tubing that channels the water for the fountain.


6. Cut a length of flexible plastic tubing 1 foot longer than the bamboo stalk, using the scissors. Feed the tube through the drilled hole that is 4 inches from the end of the stalk down to and through the drilled hole at the opposite end. Pull the tubing through the second hole so that 8 inches extend from the hole. Seal the holes around both ends of the tubing with silicone sealant. Allow the sealant to dry.


7. Repeat Step 4 to attach the bamboo stalk with the plastic tubing to the inside of the whiskey barrel opposite the first stalk. The drilled hole that is 6 inches from the end should be inside the barrel.


8. Cut a length of bamboo stalk 6 inches longer than the width between the two stalks attached to the whiskey barrel. Drill 1/4-inch holes along one side of the new stalk, no more than 1/2-inch apart; begin drilling the holes 4 1/2 inches from each end of the new bamboo stalk. The holes will allow the water to cascade back into the whiskey barrel, similar to a rain curtain.


9. Drill a 1/2-inch hole through one side of the new bamboo stalk, 4 inches from one end. The hole should line up with the 1/4-inch holes. Seal each end of the bamboo stalk with a rubber stopper or with silicone sealant.


10. Position the new bamboo stalk horizontally between the two vertical stalks. The 1/4-inch holes should be facing down into the whiskey barrel. The 1/2-inch hole should be adjacent to the vertical stalk with the plastic tubing. Attach the new bamboo stalk perpendicular to the two upright stalks by wrapping twine around the stalks in a figure eight, 3 inches from each end.


11. Feed the plastic tubing through the 1/2-inch hole in the horizontal stalk. Seal around the tube with silicone sealant. Allow the silicone to dry.


12. Place the submersible fountain pump inside the whiskey barrel. Attach the end of the plastic tubing nearest to the bottom of the barrel to the fountain spout. Run the electrical cord over the side of the barrel and to an electrical outlet. Bury the cord in a shallow trench from the barrel to the outlet. Fill the whiskey barrel with water. Start the pump.

Tags: whiskey barrel, bamboo stalk, inches from, plastic tubing, 2-inch hole

Monday, December 21, 2015

Landscaping Ideas With A Whisky Barrel

You can use whiskey barrels to decorate your outdoor space.


Whether you want to incorporate a single whiskey barrel or multiple barrels into your landscaping, using these containers in your outdoor decor can add an element of natural, rustic appeal. You can use whiskey barrels in the garden to hold plants or as simple decorative pieces. Pick a new barrel for a honey-colored look or find an older barrel for a more historic look. Does this Spark an idea?


Create a Planter


For a simple look, use a whiskey barrel or two as a planter. Cut the barrel in half, vertically or horizontally. Add a liner and soil, and plant your greenery inside. For a more rustic look, set your whiskey barrel half on its side and let the soil and greenery spill out. If you're shooting for something more elaborate, turn a line of planters into a decorative piece, like a train.


Go Green with a Rain Barrel


Use an old whiskey barrel as a rain barrel. Find a barrel that already has a spigot so you easily can drain the collected water. Before you start gathering water in your rain barrel, insert a liner to prevent leaking and any possible rot in the long run. A typical whiskey barrel for use as a rain barrel will set your back about $250 or more as of August 2010. You can purchase whiskey barrels at cooperages, online retailers, and some garden and home improvement stores.


Make a Fountain


Whether your whiskey barrel is split in half or whole, you can use it to create a fountain. Install a spigot on the bottom side of one barrel and have it flow into the other half, or make a single barrel shoot water up. For a more complex fountain, use multiple whiskey barrels that flow water from one to another, creating a circuitous route or a stair step effect.


Furnish Your Space


Add a bit of old world style to your outdoor space by using whiskey barrels as furniture. Use a single whiskey barrel standing upright as a table, or cut it in half and add shelves and hinges to create a cabinet. With more advanced carpentry skills you can turn barrels into chairs, cutting away portions of the barrel and adding padded seating. Take the top off your whiskey barrel, add plumbing and install an outdoor sink inside the middle of the barrel .

Tags: whiskey barrel, whiskey barrels, your whiskey barrel, rain barrel, your outdoor, your whiskey

Adjust A Rain Bird 5000

Rain Bird 5000 sprinklers have adjustment screws so you can maximize their efficiency.


Rain Bird 5000 sprinklers use a gear-driven design to water residential and commercial properties. They can water from 25 to 50 feet and have a precipitation or coverage rate of 0.20 to 1.01 inches per hour. The arc, or rotation, can be adjusted from 40 degrees to 360 degrees. The watering radius, or distance, can be reduced up to 25 percent. Rain Bird 5000 sprinklers also allow you to change nozzles for different watering angles and distances. Rainbird 5000 Plus sprinklers are equipped with a flow shut-off. Does this Spark an idea?


Instructions


1. Turn the radius-adjustment screw. This screw is located in the "radius adjustment socket" located on top of the sprinkler and above the sprayer opening. Using a flathead screwdriver, turn the screw clockwise to decrease the radius or distance and counter-clockwise to increase it.


2. Adjust the Rainbird 5000 sprinkler's arc or rotation. Insert a flathead screwdriver into the arc adjustment slot located on top of the sprinkler. You will see a small plus and minus symbol next to the slot. Turn the screwdriver clockwise to increase the arc and counter-clockwise to decrease it.


3. Change the Rainbird 5000's nozzle. If you would like to change the nozzle to one with a different angle or distance, you can replace the existing nozzle. Back out the radius-adjustment screw by turning it counter-clockwise. Use the pull-up slot to lift the sprinkler's riser or stem. Using the blade of a flathead screwdriver, insert it under the nozzle removal tab and press the handle down. Insert the new nozzle into the nozzle socket. Turn the radius-adjustment screw clockwise to secure the new nozzle. Insert the nozzle's identification plug into the opening on the top of the sprinkler.


4. Turn the sprinkler's water flow off. You can shut the water flow off to Rainbird 5000 Plus sprinklers. This is useful if you wish to disable the sprinkler but do not want to disable other sprinklers in the same watering zone. Insert a flathead screwdriver into the "flow adjustment slot" located on the top center of the sprinkler. Turn the screwdriver clockwise 180 degrees to stop the flow of water. Turning the screwdriver counter-clockwise 180 degrees will start the flow of water.

Tags: Bird 5000, flathead screwdriver, Rain Bird, Rain Bird 5000, Rainbird 5000, 5000 sprinklers, Bird 5000 sprinklers

Rain Barrel & Drip System Project For Schools

Consider the set up of your school's gutters, especially the downspouts, when placing the rain barrels and drip irrigation.


Teaching students to use rain barrels to store water and drip irrigation to use the water that has been collected gives them life-long lessons in sustainability and self-reliance. Rain barrels store rain water that would fall to the ground through the gutter system; a drip irrigation system involves hose lines that have been punctured with emitters to allow water to drip out into the soil holding nearby plants. These two projects can be combined into one for students of all ages.


Concepts


Some simple math will have to be discussed in a rain barrel and drip irrigation system. An educator may want the students to figure out how many rain barrels they will need for the project. The amount of rain barrels that should be used depends not only on the budget, but also the amount of rain water that can be collected from the roof of the school. The formula to calculate the rain water capacity is the square footage of the roof times the annual rainfall in inches times .623 gallons per square inch of rainfall. A cubic inch of water equals .623 gallons. The answer to this equation will give the amount of rainwater in gallons the conditions provide. Then the students should convert this number into rain barrels. Most rain barrels hold 50 to 60 gallons. So, the students should divide the answer in gallons by 55 to find the number of rain barrels they will need for maximum water storage.


Supplies


The supplies the students can use are going to be limited by the budget. There are some essentials that a rain barrel and drip irrigation system cannot do without, including the barrels themselves, automatic-siphoning hoses, some PVC adapters, a stop valve and a drip line. All of these items, including the drip lines and fitting pieces, can be bought at local hardware stores. The project will also require some tools, including a caulking gun and a power drill with a 1-inch bit to make a bung in the rain barrels in order to attach them to each other and to attach the drip line. Depending on the age of the students, the teacher can use this tool.


Putting It All Together


The rain barrels should be positioned as close to one of the downspouts of the gutter system as possible. Methods for attaching the first rain barrel to the downspout will depend on the types of downspouts and rain barrels the students have. The simplest method is to place the end of the downspout in the barrel. One hole should be drilled near the top of the barrel. This is to attach the automatic syphoning hose. The hose is shoved through the hole as far down into the barrel as possible. The next intermediate rain barrel should have two holes drilled near but not at the top. The hose attached to the first barrel is also stuck into this next intermediate barrel. The students should continue in this manner to the last barrel. On the final barrel, drill a hole near the bottom. Insert a PVC bung into this lower hole and caulk it, then screw in a female PVC adapter. Screw the stop valve onto this adapter. Screw the drip irrigation hose onto the stop valve. Lay the drip irrigation hose in the soil near the garden beds.


Improvements


One of the first issues the students may face in utilizing their rain barrel and drip irrigation system is poor water pressure. The water pressure in the drip irrigation line determines how far down the line the water will come out. Poor water pressure may prevent all of the drip line from being used. A water pump, placed between the stop valve and drip line, can regulate the water pressure. Another method is to raise the height of the rain barrels in relation to the drip line. The higher the rain barrels are, the more pressure the water running through the drip line will have. Another potential issue in the collection system is particulate, such as leaves and grit, getting into the rain barrels and creating obstructions. The students can place a filter, such as a microfiber sheet, between the downspout and first rain barrel. Another solution is to simply check for clogs and clean them out.

Tags: rain barrels, drip irrigation, drip line, drip irrigation system, irrigation system, rain barrel, stop valve

The Going Green Festivals

Going Green Music Festivals ask participants to respect the environment of the site.


Going Green Festivals reflect the growing commitment of festival lovers to create zero-waste events by, among other things, using biodegradable food service items and making it easy for festival attendees to recycle or compost waste products. Organizations like Global Exchange and Green America have established annual Green Festivals in cities like San Francisco, Seattle and Chicago where they require vendors to follow established green practices. Individual promoters in various states also put on green festivals that endeavor to leave the festival site at least as clean as they found it.


Wilton Go-Green Festival: Wilton, Connecticut


The Wilton Go Green Festival a community-wide, daylong event in mid-May that offers lectures, seminars and various speakers in various locations around town, including the Wilton Library. Also offered are bike rides for different ability levels, a Norwalk River walk and an Arbor Day Presentation that includes Tree Steward Award presentations in the Library. Though it is relatively new (it started in 2010), the festival boasts 80 exhibitors, 20 workshops and more than 1,000 attendees.


Indiana State Museum Going Green Festival: Indianapolis, Illinois


This annual mid-March Going Green Festival is sponsored by the Indiana Museum. Especially geared for school children, the two-day festival includes exhibits, experiments and activities such as Recycled Art, Save it and Frame it, Garbage Garden, World of Worms and Paper Bead Bracelets.


Collingswood Green Festival: Collingswood, New Jersey


Collingswood's one-day annual Green Festival is celebrated in mid-April along Irvin Avenue from 10 a.m to 2 p.m. While there are vendors, music and good food, the emphasis is truly on greening. Learn about Collingswood's Biker Share, drop off hazardous waste products from your home or garage or sign up for their rain barrel and compost bin programs.


Chicago Green Festival: Chicago, Illinois


The Chicago Green Festival is celebrated each May at McCormick Place Lakeside. It's a well-organized and large event that includes workshops, activities for children, beer and wine, delicious organic food, films, presentations by authors and thinkers and live music and dance.


Blue Ridge Barbecue and Music Festival: Tryon, North Carolina


The Blue Ridge Barbeque and Music Festival boasts that between the 2006 and 2010 events, they achieved an 80 percent reduction in waste -- quite an achievement. The Festival is held each year at Harmon Field in Tryon, North Carolina. Enjoy sampling some excellent barbeque, listening to good music, and attending the annual North Carolina State Barbecue Championship.


High Sierra Music Festival: Quincy, California


The High Sierra Music Festival was started in 1991 and takes place every July 4th weekend in Quincy, California. The Festival features big name and regional bands, good food, vendors, parades and children's activities and play areas. Greening activities include cell phone recycling, onsite recycling, prizes for the greenest campsites and a composting program for food waste.


Lollapalooza: Chicago, Illinois


The famed Lollapalooza started in 1991 and since 2005 has held its annual festival in Chicago at Grant Park. The three-day festival not only offers an amazing lineup of bands, its kid-friendly "Kidzapalooza" offers activities and music every day from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day. "Lolla" claims to be one of the most environmentally friendly music festivals in the world.


Bonnaroo Music and Arts Festival: Manchester, Tennessee


The Bonnaroo Festival is a four-day event that takes place in mid-June on multiple stages and tents erected around an extensive site. In addition to internationally famous bands, attractions include a comedy theatre, cinema, water slide, on-tap lounge and yoga classes.

Tags: Green Festival, Going Green, Music Festival, North Carolina, annual Green