Clean Chromelined Barrels

While chrome-lined barrels are durable, competition shooters prefer non-lined barrels as they are slightly more accurate.

Providing a surface that is twice as hard as steel, chrome is used to line the barrels of firearms to increase longevity and prevent barrel erosion. While chrome barrels typically last longer, the surface is potentially compromised without proper cleaning and care. Excessive shooting with a hot chrome barrel also causes the lining to wear. Keeping the chrome surface clean not only preserves the integrity of the lining, but it also helps maintain accuracy. The slick surface of the chrome also resists copper and lead fouling from ammunition, making it easier to clean.

Instructions

1. Unload the firearm before cleaning. Chrome-lined barrels are more common in rifles and shotguns than in handguns. No matter what type of firearm, however, always double-check for rounds in the chamber. Remove the magazine if the firearm has one and visually inspect the chamber, or ensure all chambers are empty if cleaning a revolver.

2. Inspect the barrel for rust, blockages or other damage. If any of these conditions exist, the firearm requires more than just a cleaning; it should receive professional attention. Damaged, peeling or flaking chrome lining is a costly repair and is preventable with regular cleaning.

3. Insert the bore guide into the breech end of the barrel, if the firearm allows such access. The bore guide is a precautionary measure to protect the barrel from damage by keeping the cleaning rod straight and preventing scratches and gouges. Chrome-lined barrels are more resilient than other materials, but if new to the process of cleaning, it's an extra safety measure. Regardless if a bore guide is used, cleaning from the breech end prevents scratches to the muzzle.

4. Saturate a cleaning cloth with solvent and affix it to the jag, with the cloth slightly off center. Ammonia eats chrome, so ensure the solvent is labeled as ammonia-free. Run the wet cloth slowly through the barrel to loosen residue and lubricate the surface before brushing to prevent scratches.

5. Wet the cleaning brush and firmly yet gently pass it through the barrel one time for each round fired before cleaning. Specifically designed for heavy use, chrome-lined barrels are easier to clean than non-chrome barrels and require little force. Over cleaning is a common cause of barrel damage. Jim Borden of Springville, Pennsylvania-based Borden Rifles recommends using a one-piece stainless cleaning rod, as screw-together rods have a tendency to bend or come apart.

6. Rinse the barrel with one or two rounds of wet patches. Let the firearm rest for 15 minutes before running one or two rounds of dry patches through to remove any remaining residue.

7. Add a sparse amount of gun oil to a clean patch -- a single drop is often enough -- and run the patch through the bore to protect and lubricate it. Chrome-lined barrels are self-lubricating and don't need a heavy coating of oil. If the oil is visible, too much was used. Run another dry patch through the barrel to remove the excess.

Tags: bore guide, through barrel, barrels more, before cleaning, Chrome-lined barrels, Chrome-lined barrels more, easier clean

Rain Soft Installation

A Rain Soft water treatment system connects into a home's plumbing system near the hot water heater.

A Rain Soft water softener is the premier water softener in the home system industry. Rain Soft water softeners feature electronic controls, and are manufactured with high-quality materials. Installing a Rain Soft water softener is usually completed by an authorized technician. However, these systems are simple to install with a few tools and basic knowledge of the home's plumbing system. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Adapting the Home's Plumbing for a Rainsoft Water Treatment System

1. Identify the home's main water supply pipeline. In most new homes, this line is copper, and is directly connected to the water meter inside the home, in the basement or garage.

2. Identify the point at which the main water supply line branches off and heads into the home's hot water heater. The Rain Soft water treatment system must be installed between the home's water meter and the hot water heater.

3. Turn off the home's water supply at the water meter. Open a couple faucets in the home and flush any toilets in the home to release static pressure that exists in the home's water system.

4. Cut the main water supply line between the water meter and the hot water tank. Remove approximately 6 inches from this water line so that fittings and additional plumbing can be soldered into the plumbing system.

5. Insert a 36-inch piece of 3/4-inch copper pipe onto each side of the main water supply line. Use a 90-degree elbow and direct these plumbing lines towards the floor where the Rain Soft water treatment system will stand.

6. Solder the bypass valve into the plumbing lines just above the Rain Soft water treatment system between the two sides of the plumbing line. The bypass valve will be used if the water softener is ever removed from the system.

7. Connect the Rain Soft water treatment tank into the home's plumbing system. On the back of the water treatment systems electronic controls are two plumbing fittings, similar to the fittings on top of a hot water tank. One fitting is marked "In" and the other fitting is marked "Out." Use a bi-metal union plumbing fitting and connect the "in" fitting with the side of the plumbing line which supplies water into the home. Use a similar union plumbing fitting and connect the "out" side of the control unit to the water line leading into the home. Allow the soldered plumbing fittings time to cool before re-pressurizing the system.

Connecting the Brine Tank and Repressurizing the System

8. Connect the Rain Soft water treatment system electronic control valve to the system's brine tank using the CPVC plastic plumbing. A third plumbing outlet is present on the treatment system's diverter valve. The diverter valve channels water into the brine tank, which rinses the water treatment tank periodically. This plumbing line is not pressurized like the home's plumbing system. The CPVC plumbing line should lead into the brine tank and terminate within a couple inches of the bottom or that tank.

9. Plug the water treatment's electronic controls into a nearby duplex 110-volt power outlet. Set the controls and clock in this device according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

10. Close the newly installed diverter valve so that water will be channeled through the Rain Soft water treatment softener.

11. Open the main valve and allow water to flow back into the home's plumbing system, pressurizing the water lines.

12. Close any faucets that were opened at the beginning of this process. Allow water to fill the Rain Soft water treatment tank, and then began to use the home's water system as normal.

Tags: Rain Soft, Rain Soft water, Soft water, Soft water treatment, into home, plumbing system, water treatment

Set Up A Goldfish Pond On A Budget

Goldfish are very easy to keep and in most climates can live outside year round feeding on algae. Making a goldfish pond on a budget takes very little effort and can add interest to your garden or deck. A goldfish pond can be set inground as part of your landscaping, or a waterproof planting barrel can be turned into an attractive habitat, especially if you add plants. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. The easiest method of setting up a little pond is to use a fiberglass whiskey barrel, available at home and garden stores as planters. With the addition of some water lilies or irises, this is very attractive nestled in your yard or on a deck. Make sure you get the type of barrel that is watertight and doesn't have drainage holes at the bottom. Set it where you want it to be and fill it with water. You want to make sure it doesn't have a slow leak. Also the water should "age" for several days before you add fish.

2. The other way to make an attractive little goldfish pond is with a deep rubber container buried in the ground. Choose a large container. If the area you plan on placing it is in full sun, you may want to choose a clear or light color because the water will get quite warm in a black container. Dig a hole big enough to bury it with a lip of about three inches above ground. Fill it with a little water to make sure it's level and use the dug-out soil to pack it in until it is level and supported on all sides. Fill it with water and let it sit for several days. You can surround the lip with pavers or flagstones, or plant low-growing ground cover around it.

3. Any pet or aquarium store will sell feeder goldfish, usually for pennies each. Since they are kept in crowded conditions, the fish are stressed, so expect to lose a few. Release them into your pond and keep your eye on it for a few days. With the addition of a few water plants, even little ponds become self-sustaining ecosystems and need little care. The goldfish will happily live off algae. You can feed them, but do so sparingly. If they are fed just a little every day, they will come to the surface when you approach as tame goldfish. Feeder goldfish can become quite large and live for many years. Once your little pond is established, you can add fancier goldfish, which are often not as robust but add interest to your goldfish pond.

4. If it gets below freezing during winter, you may need to bring your goldfish inside for winter. Goldfish can survive very cold winters but usually need a pond that is at least 36 inches deep so they can go dormant in the leaf mulch at the bottom. A barrel can be set on wheels and brought into the house for winter. One option is to set up a 20-gallon aquarium and transfer the goldfish to that when the temperature starts dropping towards the freezing mark. Keep the aquarium inside for the winter and when the weather warms up, transfer them back to their outside pond. The goldfish should survive the transfer in perfect health every year.

Tags: doesn have, Fill with, goldfish pond, goldfish pond, inside winter

Storing Garden Tool Ideas

Garden tools such as rakes, shovels, pruning shears, brooms and hoes require clean and dry storage solutions to extend their useful life. Other tools and equipment such as chicken wire, garden hoses, watering cans, gloves and wheelbarrows should also be stored carefully to promote cleanliness and discourage dirt buildup and infestation. Does this Spark an idea?

Daily Storage

After cleaning and drying tools, store long-handled items by placing in a clean dry garage or garden shed either handle down or handle up. A large collection basket such as a plastic rain barrel allows for a waterproof easily accessible storage area. Or place a garden storage bench at the back of the garage or a utility tool bin on the back porch to keep all the garden tools together, Your daily storage areas must be clean and dry.

Wall Storage

There are a number of commercially available garden tool storage systems that consist of weight-bearing hooks that attach to a grid or directly to the wall of your garage. The hooks are usually movable so you can place them to meet your particular tool height requirements. The wall rack systems are available at home improvement stores. Be sure to hang tools rather than let the bases touch the ground to deter rust and debris from gathering.

Seasonal Storage

During the winter months garden tools and equipment are susceptible to rust and rot through misuse and improper storage. Clean and dry tools thoroughly, then place tool end down into a plastic bucket of clean sand. The sand prevents moisture from corrupting the metal parts of the tool and the texture of the sand keeps pointed tools sharp. Add a little oil to the sand to lubricate hinged tools.

Specialty Equipment

Lean large items such as wheel barrows against a clean dry wall in the shed or garage. Never leave outside as they can rust quickly. Make sure a wheel barrow is empty before storing. Turn so the handles and wheels face away from the wall. Use a large, specially weighted hook if the walls of the garage or shed can hold the excess weight.

Store garden hoses on specially designed reels that attach to the wall. These reels allow you to wind the hose to prevent cracks or bends in the line. Reels are relatively inexpensive, come in a number of designs and have hooks and hardware for attaching to the wall. Alternatively, if the walls of your storage unit can't the weight, choose a reel without hardware that can lie on its side on a shelf or on a dry clean area on the floor.

Cleaning

Secure the tool in a workable position and hone the blades and sharp edges using a metal file (in the case of hoes and saws) or a piece of sandpaper (for shovels and shears). Wear thick work gloves to prevent accidental cutting. Wipe away debris and filings before spraying the blades lightly with lubricating oil. For difficult tools, take them to the local home and garden store and pay for a professional sharpening. Professional sharpening is a good choice for end-of-season pre-winter storage.

Tags: garden hoses, garden tools, that attach, tools equipment

Access Tonneau Covers Vs Truxedo Tonneau Covers

Tonneau covers are manufactured to cover a truck bed and have several beneficial features. A truck is a versatile vehicle because it can carry objects that otherwise need a trailer to haul. Tools and construction materials are often carried in the truck bed along with large items like furniture and appliances. When truck beds are open and uncovered, personal belongings are exposed to the elements. Light items will blow out of the truck with wind gusts, and rain can ruin items that are not waterproof.

History:

The word tonneau is a French word that translates into rear seating. This term is used to describe the truck bed covers today, even though we don't usually use the bed of a truck for seating. The earliest versions were installed by attaching snaps on the bed of the truck and snapping the top down. These left a little to be desired because the snaps would rust, and then the top couldn't be attached. They also leaked when they aged due to shrinkage and gaps in the vinyl.

Types

Access and Truxedo are two of the major manufacturers of tonneau covers. The types they make are a roll-up design, which enables you to open it from the tail gate and only roll up as much as you need to uncover items in the truck bed.

Features

Both companies use a one-finger easy-trigger release to open and may be operated by one person. Each brand is also consumer installed in minutes. There are clamps that attach the tonneau cover to the bed without drilling any holes, and they are compatible with other accessories as bed rails and tailgate protectors. Both Access and Truxedo covers have a Velcro side-sealing system to ensure a good fit. The covers may be purchased for any make and model of truck, and each company makes them model specific for a good fit. Each brand has a vinyl ultraviolet light coating to retain its shape and protect it from the elements. Each also has a locking mechanism to help avoid theft.

Considerations

The main differences in the tonneau covers made by Access and Truxedo are that Access offers a lifetime limited warranty and Truxedo only offers a five-year warranty on most models. Further, the Truxedo Deuce offers tool box access and is their top of the line product. There is a lifetime warranty on this model. A price comparison shows that Truxedo has slightly lower pricing per truck model.. Truxedo has a price range from $284 to $549 for the Deuce. Access has a price range from $399 to $509. The Access covers can be purchased directly from the manufacturer online; Access covers are only sold through authorized dealers and have free shipping.

Benefits

A tonneau cover is aerodynamically shaped to cut the wind drag on a truck. Instead of the wind passing over the cab and diving down into the bed, which causes air resistance, it will pass over the top of the bed. You can save up to 10 percent of gas usage with a truck bed cover, and you also will not have ruined items or items stolen out of your truck.

Tags: Access Truxedo, Access covers, covers purchased, Each brand, price range, price range from

Stop Water Waste

Stopping water waste is not difficult.

The average American uses 80-100 gallons of water a day, much of which is just waste. Stopping water waste saves money if your water is metered, and it helps the environment. It also helps reduce the incidence of water shortages in dry areas. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Don't leave faucets running. This is the first and most obvious way to cut water waste. Turn off faucets when cleaning and brushing your teeth, and wash dishes in a bowl or dishpan, not under running water.

2. Put a plastic cistern hippo or a weight-filled plastic bottle in your toilet tank. This decreases the amount of water used to flush the toilet. Not flushing every time saves more water.

3. Fix leaking faucets. One dripping faucet can waste hundreds of gallons of water a year.

4. Take short showers instead of baths. A five-minute shower uses a less water than a bath. Install a low-flow showerhead to further reduce water use.

5. Put full loads in the washing machine and use short cycles. Run the dishwasher only when full.

6. Use gray water and rain water in the garden. Gray water is water that has been used for something else, such as washing dishes or clothes, but is clean enough to reuse for purposes other than drinking. This is fine for watering your lawn, most plants and trees. Collect rain water in a barrel for your vegetables, which reduces runoff and captures water that otherwise would flow into the sewage system.

7. Replace old appliances with efficient models. Choose the most energy- and water-efficient model when the time comes to replace your washing machine or dishwasher.

Tags: water waste, gallons water, rain water, Stopping water, Stopping water waste, washing machine

Lawn Care & Droughts

With some prepartion your lawn can stay green during a drought.

During periods of drought, homeowners may see their lawns suffer and turn brown. You can prevent many of the negative effects of drought by preparing ahead and knowing what steps to take to protect your lawn during the heat of summer. Does this Spark an idea?

Fertilizer

Do not use fertilizers on your lawn during a drought. Large quantities of fertilizer on a lawn increase the amount of water the lawn requires. Many fertilizers use multiple-step programs to treat a lawn, which can compound the problem during a drought. If you do not use as much fertilizer during the summer, the grass will grow slower, thus becoming more developed before it reaches peak size. The best time to fertilize is during the fall, so try to save the majority of fertilizing until then. This helps ensure there are nutrients for the grass to use in the spring and throughout the summer.

Mowing

Do not mow your grass too low. A general guide is to not cut more then a third of the grass blade in one mowing session. Raise your mower height one setting above your normal setting. The taller grass will make the root system develop deeper into the soil and decrease its susceptibility to drought. When you do mow, leave the clippings on the ground. Clippings help keep the soil shaded and cool. This will slow the evaporation of water from the soil.

Conserve Water

Be mindful of when you water your lawn. Water during the early morning hours from 4:00 a.m. until 9:00 a.m. Early watering will allow your grass to get most of the water. Watering during the heat of the day wastes most of the water because it will evaporate before the grass roots can absorb it. If water limitations are in effect, alternate the days you water your lawn.

Store Water

Have a backup plan. A rain barrel is a cost-effective and eco-friendly method to conserve water. The best way to set up a rain barrel is to place it under a down spout from your gutter. Your rain barrel will catch the maximum amount of water doing this.

Sharpen Lawn Mower Blades

Use sharp blades when cutting your lawn. Mower blades should be sharpened at least twice a season. Dull blades do not cut the grass blade cleanly, and can tear your grass. The grass can use between 40 to 60 percent more water trying to recover from being torn.

Aeration

Assist your lawn's ability to receive water by aerating it. As time goes by, dead plant material and traffic on the lawn compact the soil. Compaction can make it difficult for new grass to grow through the soil and receive water. An aerator is a device that has spikes on it. You roll it across your lawn and this will puncture the soil. The holes left by the aerator act like tiny drainage holes for water to seep into the soil. Liquid aerators are also available that help loosen your soil. A more organic solution is to try using earthworms. Any bait shop should carry them.

Tags: your lawn, during drought, rain barrel, your grass, amount water, during heat

Recycle Bath Water

Use your old bathwater to water plants.

Recycling old bath water allows the homeowners to conserve water usage. Using your bath water to water your plants helps you save money because you are not using extra water to hydrate your plants and lawn. Recycling water benefits the environment because it prevents humans from diverting too much water away from freshwater ecosystems and helps to prevent chemicals from spilling into freshwater ecosystems, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Check the plug of your bathtub to make sure that the drain is plugged and that your bathwater will not leak down the drain.

2. Place a bucket or a watering can in the bathtub and collect the water that runs into it while you wait for your water to heat up. Remove the bucket from the tub and take your bath or shower as you normally would.

3. Allow the bath water to accumulate in the bottom of the tub. Keep the bath water in the tub while you get dressed and transfer the first bucket outside.

4. Place the bath water that you collected into a large rain barrel. Collect all the bath water from your tub in the bucket and transfer it to the large rain barrel.

5. Connect your garden hose to the rain barrel. Use the garden hose to water your plants and grass.

Tags: bath water, rain barrel, your plants, freshwater ecosystems, garden hose, large rain, large rain barrel

Homemade Pond Filter Barrel

A pond is a pleasant and relaxing addition to your garden or patio, but it does need some maintenance and a filtration system. Find a pond filter barrel by searching your local car wash or the classifieds in your local newspaper for as many 55-gallon barrels you need. Does this Spark an idea?

Assembly

Purchase other materials needed, such as lengths of PVC pipes, elbows, sump pump, and silicone or rubbers gaskets at your local hardware store. Your homemade pond filter system should cost no more than $200.

Determine how many gallons of water you are using in your pond. Fifty-five gallon barrels are best because they filter about 1,000 gallons of water, so you may need more than one, according to Blondie's Water Garden. Ensure the barrels you purchase or find did not contain toxic chemicals, and always clean your barrels thoroughly before using whether or not they are new or used.

Cut holes on each side of your barrel about 2 inches from the bottom and one near the top of your barrel using a jig saw or a door saw attached to your drill, according to Factoidz.

A sump pump placed into your pond pumps pond water to your filter. The water from your pond goes to your barrel filter and back into your pond through PVC pipes. Attach a length of PVC pipe to the pump line and bring the line to one of the holes you drilled on the side of your barrel. A check valve attached to the pipe prevents impurities from flushing back into your pond whenever the power is off, such as when you are cleaning the barrel filter or during a power outage. The hole at the top of the barrel returns clean water to your pond. Use one of the elbows attached to your pipe to allow for drainage. Apply rubber gaskets or silicon gel around the pipes on both sides to prevent leakage.

Preparing the Barrel

Remove the lid and use it as a template to draw two circles on an upside down egg crate. Cut the circles with needle nose pliers, and place the egg crate and circles into the bottom of your barrel. Fill the barrel to about 2 inches from the top with lava rock, and place a length of PVC pipe into the top hole and bring it back to your pond. Lava rock filters impurities from pond water.

Glue a length of PVC pipe to a shut off valve. This goes into the other hole on the other side of your barrel and acts as your cleaning filter. Place the other end of the pipe through the hole with an elbow for drainage.

Lava rocks trap anything sucked up from the pond. To clean your filter, open the shut off valve and let the water drain. A good idea is to let the water drain into another container to use for your plants.

Cleaning

Clean your filter at least once every few weeks by turning the pump off, opening the valve and draining the barrel. With a high-pressured nozzle on your garden hose, wash the lava rocks. Mix the rocks as you wash them. When the water looks clear coming out of your drain, shut the valve and turn your pump on.

Tags: your pond, your barrel, into your, into your pond, length pipe, shut valve

Tips For Painting A Wood Rifle Stock

It doesn't matter the reason you've decided to paint your wooden rifle stock, just that you have. Now, you need to know what it takes to actually accomplish getting it from its current condition to the picture-perfect rifle you want it to be. While painting a rifle stock isn't the hardest project to undertake, it is one that can lead to difficulties if you're not prepared when you start.

The Tools You'll Need

Sandpaper is going to prove to be your best friend in this project, so expect to use plenty of it at varying grains from course to fine grit. These will be used to take the glossy lacquer off the top current layer of the rifle's stock and to smooth out any rough spots or cracks that your stock may have.This is the best time to fix them and fill them in with filler, according to professional stock painter Mike Ricklefs. You'll want to choose a good primer, like a gray or a deep red, and you'll want plenty of painters' tape to cover up the parts you don't want to paint on. In addition, you'll want some hot water, some degreaser, a pair of rubber gloves and brushes to apply your primer and your chosen paint.

Sand the Stock

Use a course-grit sandpaper to work the lacquer finish off the stock of the gun. This takes some patience but is required in order to properly paint the stock. Once the surface is sanded, wash the stock in hot water. Don't worry if you get some on the metal because the gun has gone through a process that protects it and a little water won't harm it. After washing the stock, let it dry. This will raise the grain of the wood and you'll sandpaper over it with a medium- to fine-grit sandpaper to smooth out the wood.

Degrease the Stock

Put on your rubber gloves and wash the stock with a degreasing soap, which is available in most auto shops or at larger department stores. Use hot water and wash the stock thoroughly. This removes any grease from your hands and any remaining lacquer residue. From this point on, you'll want to keep the gloves on when working with the stock to keep the natural oils on your skin from soaking into the wood.

Prepare for Painting

Mask off any part of the gun you don't want to paint by using painters' tape. For larger areas, such as the barrel or the scope, consider covering with aluminum foil and taping around the edges to make the job easier. Once the masking is complete, prime the stock with the primer of your choice. Cover all parts of the wood in order to allow for even painting. Let it dry for 24 hours.

Paint the Stock

Paint the stock with your chosen color, or colors. If working for a camouflage scheme, start with a base coat of khaki or almond or olive drab and then move to your darkest color and work your way to the lightest. For every layer or coat you do, allow 24 hours of drying in between to let the paint adhere to the stock.

Finish

Once your painting is complete, you can choose to cover it with a gloss coat or leave it as is. Make sure to remove all the tape from your gun and lubricate all of the working parts such as the action and the bolt with lubricant or 3-in-1 oil.

Tags: stock with, wash stock, from your, painters tape, primer your, rifle stock

Make Your 50cc Scooter Even More Faster

make your 50cc scooter EVEN MORE FASTER

In this article I will offer more in depth tips and tricks to heavily modifying your 50cc Chinese made 4-stroke scooter for OFF ROAD use. I say off road use because most state laws require a motorcycle endorsement on the riders license if the vehicle is over 50cc as well as the scooter may have to be registered with the BMV. Modifications to the scooters engine size, intake and CVT will be explained. Installing a 72cc upgrade kit from good and reputable online company is a fast and easy way to achieve upwards of 50 mph top speed out of your scooter. Forums such as Scootdawg have a wealth of information concerning troubleshooting, links to trusted online parts suppliers and even a step by step guide step by step guide on install your new big bore upgrade kit.

Instructions

1. There are many big bore upgrade kits on the market for your Chinese made scooter with the 139QMB Honda clone engine. In this article I will specifically talk about the 72cc displacement upgrade kits due to unreliability factors associated with going larger than 72cc. While there are many different manufacturers for these kits, the Taiwanese made kits offer the best quality and workmanship. Always find a kit that includes a cylinder head with larger valves to take more advantage of your added performance potential.

2. When upgrading the bore of the engine, you must be able to supply enough fuel to the engine. You do this by changing the main jet in the carburetor to a larger #85 main jet. This will allow for a more balanced air to fuel ratio and ensure maximum performance. Running the engine too lean can seriously damage your engine, overheating it. Running the engine too rich (too much fuel in the mixture) can cause poor fuel economy and wear on the internal engine parts faster as well. Some people have reported good results changing the low speed pilot jet to a larger #38 if your are having acceleration or stumbling issues.

3. Remove the factory air intake box and install a free flow UNI type cone filter. This will allow for your engine to breath better. After market exhaust pipes are also a good way to increase power but often at the expense of a louder scooter.

4. Change out the old stock spark plug for a NGK iridium spark plug. There are high output ignition coils and Race CDI electronic ignitions however I have not seen many substantial gains from other consumers that have bought these.

5. Use synthetic motor oil after the break in process for a little added performance. Always check your tires for proper pressure, check your brakes and make sure your wheels are turning freely.

6. Some of the best performance gains you can obtain from your scooter is changing out the Roller weights from your CVT Variator (drive pulley connected to the engine crankshaft) If you want fast off the line acceleration then lighter weights such as 5.5 gram would be recommended. If higher top speed is your goal, 7-8.5 gram rollers would be the best. Of course what roller weights sizes are best for you can depend on many factors such as rider weight, terrain, etc, so I would suggest getting 2-3 different sets to find your "sweet spot"

7. Forums such as Scootdawg.com has some of the best resources I have seen with experienced riders and guru's that knows what works and what doesn't. One of the largest contributors to the site, Enviromoto, has a good website and has some of the best customer service I have seen out of ANY online store Period. What I like about Enviromoto's products is that he offers different levels of performance packages with everything you need, Instructions included! All the guess work is taken out!

Tags: have seen, added performance, article will, bore upgrade, check your, Chinese made, engine this

Make A Rain Collection Barrel

Make a Rain Collection Barrel

Many people like to take advantage of things that others take for granted, including water. Most people use water that has been treated and prepared for drinking when they could be using free rain water. Some states are advising their citizens to make use of a water collection system to help them get through times of drought when water is scarce. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Drill a 3/4-inch hole into the side of the barrel about 1 inch up from the ground. You can use a hole drill bit, or a large bit--either works. Don't go too low or you will have problems getting it to be waterproof since the barrel tends to curve at the bottom. Make sure you are drilling the hole into the flat side of the barrel.

2. Screw the 1/2-inch male PVC adapter into the hole. It should form some threads into the plastic. Unscrew the adapter and thread it with Teflon pipe tape. Coat the threads on the 3/4-inch adapter with silicon caulk for waterproofing sealant and screw it onto the 1/2 adapter. Screw the whole piece into the hole in the barrel, applying the silicone caulk to the outside edge. Allow it to dry untouched for a day.

3. Attach a hose with a shut-off valve to the outside of the male PVC adapter. Gravity will force the water out of the barrel and into the hose. If you elevate the barrel on a solid surface, you will be able to direct the water flow to more areas, unless your house is already more elevated than the rest of the yard.

4. Cut a 4-inch hole in the top center of the barrel. You can drill a 3/4-inch hole in the center of the area and then slide a coping or jig saw in to cut the rest of the circle. This is where you will insert the 4-inch atrium grate to filter the debris from getting into the rain collection barrel.

5. Insert the atrium grate and use silicon caulk sealant to seal it into place. If you are concerned about mosquitoes, you can insert a fine mesh bit of window screen into the grate. Now, direct the gutter from the roof to drain into the barrel. An elbow might be necessary to get the right angle off the gutter.

Tags: 4-inch hole, 4-inch hole center, atrium grate, hole center, hole into

Install A Sump Pump

If water getting into your basement is an ongoing issue, a sump pump may be the answer to your problem. Houses built on flat terrain where heavy rains or melting snow don't get a chance to run off are often subject to basement flooding. Once the ground is saturated, ground water pressure builds up and forces water into a basement through tiny cracks in the concrete. A sump is basically a hole in the ground, cut through your basement floor. Water drains into the hole and the sump pump moves the accumulated water out and away from your house.

Instructions

Preparing the Sump Pit

1. Determine where your sewer, water and other utility lines enter your home. You don't want to damage any existing utilities when digging your sump pit.

2. Locate your sump pit at the lowest point of your basement floor (use a level to determine where that point is). The location should be near an exterior wall and located close to an electrical outlet (if possible). The pump will need to be plugged into a GFCI protected circuit.

3. Determine where the discharge pipe is going to run out of your basement--usually through a rim or header joist near the sump. Decide how you are going to route the pipe from the pump to the outside of your house.

4. Purchase your sump pump and liner before you move on. The sump liner (in reality, a plastic tub with holes in the sides so water can seep in) will act as a template for the hole you need to make in your basement floor.

5. Place the liner on the floor where you are locating your sump pit and trace around its outline.

6. Using a rented jackhammer cut around the marked outline and break up the concrete into manageable sized chucks for easy disposal.

7. Dig the hole to the depth recommended by the sump pump manufacturer (usually 24 inches) and level the bottom.

8. Put the liner in place and ensure it fits. Seal around the edges of the liner with concrete and trowel it level with the floor.

Choosing a Sump Pump

9. Two types of sump pumps are available: submersible pumps and pedestal pumps. Both designs move water equally well.

10. Submersible pumps actually sit in the bottom on the sump pit and are "submersed" in water. A float valve rides on the surface of the water and activates the pump when the water level rises. Since they are underwater, submersible pumps are generally quieter than pedestal pumps.

11. Pedestal pumps have their motors mounted on top of a standpipe where the motor won't come in contact with the water, but a float valve on the water surface activates them as well. Since the motor is not in the water, a pedestal pump is usually more noisy that a submersible pump. However, pedestal pumps are often less expensive.

Installing Your Sump Pump

12. Attach the discharge pipe to the sump pump (usually 1 1/4" PVC) and set the pump into the pit. Check for level and use plastic shims if necessary.

13. Drill a hole through the rim or header joist to accommodate the discharge pipe and cut and run a piece of PVC pipe through the hole. You want about 6 inches of pipe outside the house and 3 or 4 inches inside the house.

14. Measure and cut PVC pipe to attach to the discharge pipe installed through your wall and run back to the discharge pipe of the pump.

15. Dry fit to ensure lengths are right and then cement the pipe sections.

16. Support the pipe runs by attaching to the walls or joists.

17.On the outside, caulk and seal around the discharge pipe and attach a pipe to run the water at last 6 feet away from your foundation. Use a diverter to direct the water well away from your house.

18. Adjust the float valve (as per manufacturer directions), plug in the pump and pour in 5 or 10 gallons of water to check the pumps operation.

Tags: discharge pipe, your basement, your sump, away from, away from your

Make Home Brewed Whiskey

A good home-brewed whiskey is not difficult to make as long as you understand the ingredients and amount of time natural processes take. There are many types of ingredients to choose from to make whiskey, including molasses and sweet mash. The most common whiskey is grain-mash, and it is the most simple process to start with before progressing to more elaborate recipes that can take much longer to complete. Add this to my Recipe Box.

Instructions

1. Wet the burlap or cheesecloth bag with lukewarm water, and place the corn inside. Put the bag in a place that is warm and dark, such as a basement or back corner of a pantry. Make sure no bugs can get into the bag.

2. Keep an eye on the bag until the corn sprouts are 1/4- to 1/2-inch long. This could take 10 to 15 days. Once the sprouts are long enough, remove the roots and sprouts from the kernels and discard.

3. Wash the corn in warm water, then place in the large container or barrel, which is the still. Mash it up with the stick so there are no large pieces of corn left.

4. Boil the 5 gallons of water. Add it to the barrel, along with the sugar and can of malt if desired. These two additional ingredients can provide a more interesting taste.

5. Wait for the mixture to cool, then add the yeast. Cover the barrel or container with the cheesecloth and keep in the same place you kept the burlap bag to start fermentation, which should take around 10 days.

6. Pour the mixture into the still through a large strainer-type device, such as a pillowcase, after the 10 days are up. This will remove all solids in the whiskey. Let it distill.

7. Distill the whiskey for a second time for a more pure product. If desired, add woods such as applewood or oak for extra flavor. Once complete, store the whiskey in decanters or barrels to age the product.

Tags:

Diy Sand Filter Barrels

Sand barrel filters can be used to filter water, making it fit for drinking.

Groundwater drawn from wells and aquifers is renowned for its clarity and clean, refreshing taste. It attains this purity by being filtered through the many feet of rock, sand and soil between the surface (where it first falls as rain) and the underground reservoir from which it is drawn. It is possible to use a barrel filled with sand to simulate this process, along with a little help from a beneficial set of microorganisms collectively called schmutzdecke. This "slow sand filter" is useful in case of natural disasters during which municipal water supplies and well pumps may not be functional.

Instructions

1. Cut a hole in the bottom center of a 50-gallon plastic barrel using a hole saw. This hole will allow you to insert the pipe that will collect the water filtered by the barrel.

2. Drill rings of four to six holes with a diameter of about 1/8 inch around the circumference of a 1- to 2-foot piece of PVC pipe, with a few inches between each ring of holes. Leave the last 4-5 inches of pipe undamaged. The holes will allow water into the pipe from inside the barrel, with the length without holes being the part that extends outside.

3. Insert the pipe into the hole in the barrel until only the part without holes extends outside it. Do this with the barrel on its side, propping up the length of pipe inside the barrel with a piece of scrap wood or whatever is handy. Apply marine caulk around the intersection of the barrel and the pipe both inside and outside the barrel and allow it to dry.

4. Attach a pipe cap and hose fitting to the inside and outside ends of the pipe, respectively, using epoxy as an adhesive. Set two of the cinder blocks down side by side, with about 5 inches between them, and stand barrel up on top of them with the pipe end down. This should be in the place you intend your filter to be used, and should be in partial sunlight to facilitate the growth of the schmutzdecke layer. Do not put it in direct sunlight because that would tend to dry out and kill the organisms.

5. Fill the barrel with sand to a depth of at least 30 inches and layer one or more flat stones on top of it until as much of the sand as possible is covered by stone.

6. Attach 4 to 5 feet of rubber hose to the hose fitting. To fill your filter for the first time, keep the end of the hose above the level of the top of the barrel and use a reservoir or garden hose to fill it. This will fill the barrel from the bottom up, preventing bubbles from forming in the sand that could block water flow. When you are done filling it the first time, attach the nozzle to the hose and close it off.

7. Once the schmutzdecke layer has formed, fill the barrel by pouring water gently in the top and opening the hose to let filtered water out into whatever container you want to store it in.

Tags: barrel with, extends outside, fill barrel, first time, hose fitting, inches between

Recycle Fresh Water

Recycling your fresh water can save you money on your water bill and reduce waste.

Fresh water is a limited resource that is often wasted down the drain. You can save a lot of the fresh water that you use and recycle it in a number of ways. Recycling your fresh water will cut down on your water bill and reduce the amount of energy expended to purify tap water that is redistributed to your home. Taking the extra steps to recycle water is yet another thing you can do to reduce your imprint on the planet. You can choose to recycle only some of your water or recycle almost of all your fresh water.

Instructions

1. Keep a bucket or barrel outside to collect rainwater when it rains. This water can be used to water your plants in times of little rainfall or you could even wash your car with it.

2. Put a small bucket outside underneath window unit air conditioners to catch the drips of condensation. Those small drips of water can quickly add up to an entire bucket that you can use to water your flowers.

3. Put a sterile bucket under your bathtub spout to catch the cold water that flows while you wait for the water to get hot. This is clean tap water that you can use to brush your teeth with, drink, rinse vegetables or cook with.

4. Keep a dishpan in your sink to catch your rinse water from washing vegetables, rinsing your hands or rinsing a drinking glass. This water can be used to water your garden or lawn.

5. Boil food in a pot with a built-in strainer that allows you to lift the strainer and food out of the water, rather than pouring the water down your sink. Water from boiling eggs can be reused to rinse vegetables, while starchy pasta water is better used for watering plants.

6. Wash your dishes in a dishpan and collect the "gray water" in a bucket that you can use to flush toilets or water your lawn. This may sound extreme, but you'll be glad you saved that water if your well pump ever stops working or there's a burst water line in your area that prevents you from flushing your toilet.

Tags: water your, water that, fresh water, your fresh, your fresh water, your water

North Carolina State Architecture Student Projects

North Carolina State University's School of Architecture has been accredited by the National Architectural Accrediting Board since 1950. Students in the school have designed projects for the community as well as the university itself as part of their studies. These projects help to showcase the university's faculty in addition to the students themselves.

Affordable Housing

In Wake County, N.C., the Wake County Division of Human Services funded a project for the North Carolina State University School of Architecture graduate students and faculty. The Wake County Affordable Housing Project deals with housing in the county and the best ways to accomplish affordable housing. Models presented illustrations of affordable housing with concepts such as environmentally friendly, mixed use and mixed income included. Design workshops in study towns helped to focus on which ideas were most important.

Migrant Workers

As part of an architecture studio class, 14 School of Architecture students put together a bathhouse for migrant workers in Sampson County, N.C. Students made use of questionnaires for the migrant workers in order to better understand what their needs were concerning the project. The bathhouse is double its original size. Recycled materials factor into the bathhouse; bathroom flooring comes from road signs of the Department of Transportation and plastic cotton barrels for the roof.

Syme Residence Hall

An area behind Syme Residence Hall was without plants and became muddy after rain. Assistant Professor of Landscape Architecture Andrew Fox brought his concern about the issue to students. The idea of filtering rainwater before it goes back into the water table was chosen as the best way to proceed. Students added plants to the area that feature deep roots, in addition to a cistern that filters rainwater. In the cistern, water goes through several layers of mulch, sand, soil and glass beads. This system allows slow runoff of water by stopping the loss of dirt.

Redevelopment

Graduate students from the School of Architecture worked on Stone's Redevelopment Project, which received funding from the City of Raleigh Department of City Planning. Experts in the field of housing also provided help on the project. The findings were presented to the public, in addition to a report given to the city. An exhibition of design models showed the public the best of the students' ideas.

The Myth Of Harrelson Hall

A myth exists that the circular building Harrelson Hall on the campus of North Carolina State University was built by students from the School of Architecture. This is untrue. The building was in fact designed by Edward Waugh in 1961. Waugh taught at the college from the late 1940s to the early 1950s but was never a student at North Carolina State University.

Tags: Carolina State, North Carolina, North Carolina State, School Architecture, Carolina State University, State University, Wake County

Make Homemade Wind Turbine Barrels

Restaurants discard food containers every day like this one which can be used to make a wind turbine.

Creating green energy for your personal use is becoming an increasingly popular option for those who are either intent on saving money on electricity costs or on saving the environment. Wind energy conjures up the image of a 60-foot tower with a wind turbine at the top. This structure on a tower is also known as a horizontal axis wind turbine. A cheaper alternative to this kind of structure is the VAWT, or vertical axis wind turbine. Using the discarded plastic barrels used to deliver food goods can cut down significantly on the costs of building your own VAWT. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Cut both barrels in half vertically using a circular saw or manual hand miter saw.

2. Offset the two halves so that there is an open space of about 6 inches on each side of the barrel. These two halves will form the spinning part of the wind turbine. The wind will enter the open space on one side and cause the barrel to rotate as the wind exits on the other side.

3. Set both sides together in the offset position. Trace the outline of the 3 1/2 inch PVC fitting in what is now the center of the barrel structure.

4. Connect the PVC fitting ring to the top of the barrel. Use four bolts with nuts and lock washers. The axle will be inserted through this area so it's important to make sure that the fitting is in the center of the offset barrel.

5. Cut a hole through the barrel in the center of the PVC fitting ring with a spiral saw. Repeat these steps with the second barrel.

6. Cut a 3 1/2-inch hole in the centers of two lazy susan spinners.

7. Mount two PVC rings in the center of two 7-inch by 7-inch by 1-inch wooden platforms using 3/4-inch screws. These platforms will be placed onto the lazy susan spinners to facilitate the rotation needed to generate electricity. They will be secured together with the 3 1/2-inch PVC pipe that will serve as the vertical axle.

8. Hammer the 3 1/2-inch PVC pipe through the center of the holes you created in the barrels. Leave enough clearance of the pipe on either end to attach to the spinning platforms on the top and bottom end of the turbine.

9. Mount the 12-inch gear to the spinning platform on the PVC fitting ring. This will be at the bottom of the turbine.

10. Bolt the alternator to a wood platform with the bearing facing up. Attach the smaller gear to this platform so that the teeth of the large gear fit into the teeth of the small gear. When the large gear spins, the smaller gear should spin as well, turning the alternator and generating electricity.

11. Mount one of the spinning platforms to the bottom of the axle pipe just over the large gear. Mount the other spinning platform to the top part of the axle pipe. The 7-inch square wood pieces that are mounted to the axle will act as anchors to hold the VAWT in place. Drill a 3-inch self-tapping screw through each corner of the square wood pieces into a supporting structure. This can be a raised porch, deck or a structure you construct specifically for this project.

12. Connect one wire to the positive terminal of the alternator and another to the negative. Insert the other ends of these wires into a charge controller device. This charge controller will serve to halt the transfer of power from the alternator to the battery bank when it is at capacity.

13. Connect the output from the charge controller to the battery bank. Connect the positive wire of the charge controller to the positive terminal of the battery bank. Do the same for the negative wire. The batteries you use for a battery bank should be the Deep Cycle type that are made to be charged and drained continuously. These can be found at marina supply stores or at a golf cart supply shop.

Tags: battery bank, charge controller, wind turbine, fitting ring, large gear

Make Leather From Hides

Cowhide is often used to make leather.

Leather is a strong, durable and useful product that can be created from animal hides that remain after animals are hunted or raised for food. Cowhide, equinehide, sheepskin, goatskin and deerskin are all commonly used to produce leather. Though labor intensive, the home leather-making process will produce leather that is less expensive than purchasing the finished product, as well as promote the use-what-you-kill philosophy.

Instructions

Skinning

1. Hang the animal carcass upside down and use a skinning knife to remove the hide.

2. Attach the skin to a stretching frame until it is cool.

3. Lay the cooled skin on a fleshing beam, or other flat surface, and scrape all the fat and flesh off with a blunt kitchen knife or large spoon.

4. Weigh the scraped hide, then spread it out flat again, flesh-side up. Sprinkle salt over the hide, using 1 lb. of salt for each pound of hide. Rub the salt into the skin, working it all the way to the edge of the hide.

5. Fold the salted hide in half with the salted-sides together and roll it up tightly. Prop it up at a slope so liquid will drain away and let it sit for two days. After two days, unroll the hide, shake off old salt and re-apply new salt, rubbing it in thoroughly. Prop it up again and let it remain another two days, then unroll it and let it dry flat, but away from heat and sunlight.

Preparing

6. Prepare a solution of 1 oz. of borax per every gallon of warm, soft water to soak the hide. Amount will depend on the size of the hide.

7. Scrape off as much salt as possible and immerse the hide in the borax solution for three to five days, stirring several times a day with the wooden paddle. Remove the hide and rinse well, lay it flat with the fur side down and scrape it in long sweeping motions with the fleshing knife until all fat, flesh and the membrane that covers the skin is gone.

8. Fill a wooden soaking barrel almost full of warm, soft water and add 8 lbs. of agricultural lime. Put the hide in pushing it down with the paddle until it is completely covered. Soak the hide in the lime solution for anywhere from three days to six weeks, depending on weather conditions. Stir several times a day until the hair comes off.

9. Remove the hide and place it fur-side up. Scrape it with the dull side of the fleshing knife until all hair and layer of skin that hold the roots are removed. Rinse the hide several times and soak overnight, then soak another 24 hours in a solution of water and 5 oz. lactic acid or 2 ½ qt. vinegar, stirring often. After 24 hours, rinse and soak in clear water overnight.

Tanning

10. Fill a large tub almost full of water and add ½ lb. of salt for each gallon of water. Stir in ½ oz. of sulphuric acid per gallon of water, stirring slowly and carefully. Immerse the prepared hide in the solution and soak for one to three days, depending on thickness. Stir several times a day.

11. Lift the hide out of the sulphuric acid solution with the wooden paddle and rinse it several times in a barrel of clean water. While the hide is rinsing, clean and refill the tanning container with a solution of 2 lbs. borax for every 40 gallons of water. Soak the hide overnight, then remove and rinse several times.

12. Attach the hide to a stretching frame and apply a thin layer of Neat's foot oil to the hair side. Wipe off excess oil, remove hide and while it is still damp, work it several times over the wooden stake until it is soft and supple.

13. Mix 1 lb. of melted beef or mutton tallow with 1 lb. of Neat's foot oil to make dubbin and when it is cool apply it to the hair-side of the hide. Let it dry then rub it over the wooden stake again several times to work in the dubbin and soften the leather.

14. Rub both sides of the leather with fine sandpaper to smooth the surface.

Tags: several times, almost full, borax every, fleshing knife, fleshing knife until

Ideas For An Outdoor Kitty Shelter

Whether you allow your family pet to venture outside or you're concerned about the feral, stray and abandoned kitties that frequent your neighborhood, you probably know that all cats outdoors need a safe haven. It doesn't have to be fancy, but some features are necessary. Any outdoor shelter should be a few inches off the ground, to keep the inside dry, and it should be level; you can use bricks or wood or cement blocks for this. It also should be out of sight---for the safety of the cats, for their sense of security, and to avoid complaints from unsympathetic neighbors. Good shelters are available commercially, but you can also make one from common materials that you may already have on hand.

Existing Structures

You may have discovered cats seeking shelter in your carport, garage, barn, storage or tool shed, under the house or porch, or elsewhere on your property---especially places where hot-water pipes may provide warmth in winter. If it's acceptable to you, you can "improve" the area by ensuring safe access (a 6-inch opening should be adequate) and by providing warm and comfortable sleeping accommodations.

Emergency Shelter

If a winter storm is on the way and you haven't already set up a shelter, even a trash can turned on its side and braced against the wind is better than nothing. If you have a large shipping carton, tape the top closed, and tape a sheet of heavy plastic---an old shower curtain, a heavy-duty trash bag---over the top. Cut a hole in the side for an entrance. Line the bottom with appropriate bedding. If you can, put the box in a protected place and raise it off the ground, so it will stay as dry as possible.

Plastic Foam Cooler

You can make a shelter for one cat from an inexpensive plastic-foam cooler, which you can find at most supermarkets, drug stores and hardware stores. Glue the lid onto the cooler, turn it upside down, and cut a 6-inch hole near one corner. Foam containers used to ship meat can be used the same way. In fact, any insulated cooler can be adapted for use as a shelter, and the hinged lid will make it easy to clean. For these, use a jigsaw to cut the entry hole.

Plastic Storage Container

Heavy-duty plastic storage containers with lids can be adapted in much the same way, except the lid should remain on top. If you turn them over with the lids on the bottom, rain can pool around the edge of the lid and seep inside. Cut a 6-inch entry hole close to one corner, 4 or 5 inches from the bottom edge, to keep water out.

Insulation and Bedding

Bedding material should be dry and loose, so cats can burrow into it. Straw is best, but you can use wood chips or even shredded newspaper. You can also add cedar in small amounts or sprinkle a little flea powder, to discourage fleas. Do not use hay; it's prone to mold. For the same reason, don't use blankets, towels or folded newspaper. Not only do these tend to mold and mildew, but they don't provide the insulation of nesting materials. Straw is available at feed stores, pet stores and garden-supply shops. Whatever you choose for bedding, however, you must change it regularly, to be sure it remains dry. It's better to have nothing inside the shelter than to have damp bedding.

Tags: entry hole, with lids

Uses Of Soaker Hoses

Soaker hoses benefit flowers close together in the garden.

Soaker hoses deliver water at a continual, slow rate, precisely to the roots of plants or to a specific target. The hose has tiny holes along its length that allows water seepage. This method helps conserve water because there is no evaporation or run-off. It is healthy for the plants because it doesn't spray water onto leaves, where disease can take hold. Soaker hoses are used in flower and vegetable gardens, on specific areas of lawns and on trees. Does this Spark an idea?

Flower Gardens

Rose leaves can get burned with sprinkler water.

Use a soaker hose in a garden where plants and flowers are grouped close together. A flower bed with perennials, annuals, ornamental grasses, succulents and groundcovers will benefit from a soaker hose. A rose garden is a good place for a soaker hose because rose leaves are particularly prone to burning from water on the leaves.

Tomato and Vegetable Garden

Tomato plants need a deep soak about three times a week.

Dr. Steve Reiners, a horticultural scientist at Cornell University researched the use of soaker hoses in a tomato garden. Reiners applied 7.5 gallons of water per hour, three times a week, at two hours each time. The deep watering gave the tomatoes adequate moisture. "When the Northeast was plagued by a terrible drought, my tomatoes grew just fine," Reiners said in an interview in "Impact," the university's newsletter. Other vegetables that grow close together benefit from the slow release of water, including squash, corn, peas and lettuce. Root vegetables such as sweet potatoes, carrots and shallots like the deep watering.

Spot Watering the Lawn

If a specific area of a grass lawn has a dry spot where sprinklers don't reach, then a soaker house can be effective. It can be used for spot watering lawn areas up to 3-feet wide. The hose emits water the entire distance, so it works well along a driveway, sidewalk or border where strips of grass make a sprinkler inconvenient.

Deep Watering Trees

Deep water newly planted trees, as well as trees in the middle of a drought, with a soaker hose at night. This is the most efficient use of water and best for the trees, according to a scientist at the University of North Texas. "When watering trees, remember that the roots extend in all directions as far from the trunk as the tree is tall, and it is important to irrigate the entire potential rooting area," said Don Smith, associate professor of biological sciences, in an article published by the school's newsletter, "Inhouse@UNT." "However, watering the drip line (the periphery of the canopy of the tree) is probably the most effective area to concentrate on if water is limited." Smith recommends two inches of water per tree, every other week.

Tags: soaker hose, close together, benefit from, deep watering, Soaker hoses

Build Your Own Water Tower

Water towers are not just for rural areas and can be seen on top of builings in urban areas.

The purpose of a water tower is to provide running water with the pressure resulting from the gravity as water falls through pipes from the high tower. Essentially, rain water is captured in a storage tank located at the top of the tower and released through standard valves and faucets at the other end of the pipe system connected to the storage tank. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Create or acquire construction plans. Although water towers are a basic structure, the size, materials used and distance from where the water will service require a customized plan to properly accomplish this engineering project. Towers can be any height, as needed to work with a specific location; constructed of metal or wood; and can remain open, be enclosed or have storage buildings attached.

2. Dig locations for concrete tower footings. Dig down to the bedrock. No set depth is needed, as locations vary. Consult county authorities or the local extension office during the planning stages to properly determine necessary equipment, manpower and supplies.

3. Pour concrete into forms supported by the bedrock. Install any underground pipes before pouring the concrete for a slab, if a slab is desired at the base of the tower.

4. Construct the tower. Be sure to secure the tower to the footings. The tower can be constructed from wood, but steel construction is stronger and longer lasting. If you lack welding skills, hire a local contractor who works with steel home and barn construction to erect the frame. If building your own wood tower, simplify the construction by using straight vertical supports, just as in basic home construction. Add diagonal lengths of lumber on each side of what would be the exterior walls of the frame for the strength and stability needed to carry the weight of a full water tank.

5. Construct or hoist the tank, which can be constructed piece by piece on top of the tower from wood and sheet metal, or it can be purchased as a metal or plastic tank. Although early American water towers were basically large wooden barrels, the cooperage skills to create such a tank are too advanced for most individuals. It is recommended that you construct a wooden or steel frame, then line the inside of the frame with sheets of stainless or galvanized steel. Never use lead to weld or solder metal inside the tank. Instead, apply a bead of food-grade silicone sealant between metal overlaps and use a riveter to secure the sheets together. Always secure any style of tank to the tower with a network of metal straps.

6. Complete installation of the tank. Add the rain-catching devices and screens to prevent insects from entering the water. If desired, add a cover to shade the tank.

7. Install all piping and firings between the tank and location of service.

Tags: from wood, storage tank, tower footings

Attach A Spigot Faucet To A Garbage Can Bucket

There are many reasons why installing a water spigot on a bucket is a good idea. If you are making a rain barrel or compost tea for the garden, the spigot allows you to drain liquids without lifting the bucket. While a spigot may appear to be a complex piece of plumbing, it is actually comprised of only a few pieces. The most important part of installing a spigot on a garbage bucket is sealing it to prevent leaks. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Set the garbage bucket on a work surface and identify a location approximately 1 inch from the bottom where you want the spigot to be.

2. Install a 1-inch hole saw bit onto a drill and turn the drill on. Press it against the chosen location to create a hole in the bucket for the spigot. Turn the drill off and remove the plastic circle that fell inside the bucket.

3. Pick up the spigot and wrap the back tube part with two to three layers of Teflon tape. Insert the spigot into the hole, from outside the bucket, then turn it clockwise to screw it in until it is flush with the bucket.

4. Take the rubber washer and spread a thin layer of super glue on one side. Reach inside the garbage bucket and push the washer over the tube end of the spigot. Push it up against the bucket as far as possible.

5. Pick up the 3/4-inch galvanized lock nut and reach inside the bucket. Screw the lock nut onto the threaded tube end of the spigot until it is tightly positioned against the washer.

6. Open a tube of clear, silicone caulk and apply a thin bead around the entire outside of the spigot where it meets the bucket. Allow the caulk to dry for the amount of time instructed then use the bucket as desired.

Tags: garbage bucket, inside bucket, tube spigot

Keep Rain Water Runoff Out Of A Bubbler Fountain

A downspout diversion is one way to help keep runoff out of your bubbler fountain.

Bubbler fountains add a gentle noise that's relaxing to most people and also a focal point for an outdoor living space. Rain water is a natural part of outdoor water features and the outdoors in general, but you have a few options to keep the runoff out of your fountain. Two options are to either divert the runoff away from your bubbler fountain or dress up your landscape with a rain garden that will catch runoff before it gets to your fountain. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Rain Barrels

1. Install a rain barrel under the downspout that is producing runoff from your roof. You can purchase rain barrels or make them yourself out of 55-gallon plastic barrels or watertight wine barrels, with faucets and various hardware added. Rain barrels also provide you with water to irrigate gardens and for other outdoor water needs.

2. Add a flexible downspout to divert the water away from the bubbler fountain. Ensure that the water is running away from the house foundation downhill toward a retention pond or storm drain. Flexible downspouts vary -- some are attached with clamps to the metal downspout while others fit snugly onto the downspout.

3. Slope the ground around the bubbler fountain so that rain runoff diverts naturally around the fountain. The grade doesn't have to be extreme -- the minimum is 6 inches for every 10 feet of slope -- and you can do this by simply mounding soil around the base of the fountain with a spade.

Rain Garden Installation

4. Choose a location in your yard that is between the source of the rain runoff and the bubbler fountain.

5. Dig out the area for your proposed rain garden to slope down 4 or 6 inches in depth at the center.

6. Plant native plants in your rain garden. These plants are suited to your geographic location and have strong root systems that will catch the rain runoff. Many rain garden plants do well in both wet and dry soils to account for varying rainfall. Examples of rain garden plants include rattlesnake masters, downy sunflowers, cardinal flowers and sedges. Plants take a few years to become established; however, you may be able to find mature plants for a higher price. If you have thriving natives on your property, you can transplant them into your water garden.

Tags: bubbler fountain, away from, rain garden, rain runoff, from your

Gray Water Cleaning

Recycling gray water can be a simple way to lower water usage and help the environment. Cleaning gray water to potable is beyond the scope of most household systems but recycling gray water for garden watering or toilet flushing can be simple and inexpensive.

What is Gray Water?

Waste water that is created from activities like dish washing, bathing and laundry is referred to as gray water. Gray water is cloudy in color. It falls in between fresh water and black or dirty water. Gray water makes up 60 to 80 percent of all waste water created by households. Water that comes from toilets and is contaminated with sewage is called black water.

Cost of Cleaning Gray Water

The cost of cleaning gray water to a potable level on a individual level is cost prohibitive using existing technology. Gray water must be run through an intensive treatment to be made suitable for drinking and this is extremely expensive. Gray water can be recycled for use in gardens or irrigation and is often reused in third world countries where enforcement of purification laws is often non-existent or rarely enforced.

Recycling Gray Water

Gray water can be recycled if a separate plumbing system from the one that handles sewage or black water is used. Using stages of filtration and microbial digestion can clean gray water enough to be used for watering gardens or flushing toilets. A recycling system pumps gray water from a sink or dishwasher into a tank where it is stored until it is used to flush a toilet or water a garden or yard.

Recycling without Purification

There are a number of different ways to recycle gray water without purifying it. The easiest way is to just divert the water directly to the garden or lawn. Ordinances vary by state and county so check with local authorities before installing a system. Diversion systems can be simple such as running a hose from the washing machine to a garden or they can be quite sophisticated and built into a plumbing system. The more complicated systems often use a sump pump and storage tanks. Shower and bath water is best for the garden, if using laundry water it is important to check phosphate and salt levels.

Purification of Gray Water

In order to filter gray water to become potable or close to potable, there are a few different systems to choose from. Mechanical systems such as UV radiation or lava and sand filtration are common examples. Biological systems include treatment ponds, activated sludge systems and constructed wetlands. All of these systems are complicated and normally cost prohibitive for homeowners.

Benefits of Gray Water Recycling

Recycling gray water provides a number of benefits to the environment. It lowers the use of fresh water, reducing the energy usage of treatment plants, and it provides nutrients back to the soil. Installing a simple recycling system can lower your water bill as well.

Tags: gray water, Gray Water, black water, cost prohibitive, fresh water, Gray Water

Build A Wooden Rain Barrel

A wooden rain barrel can add nostalgic charm to your yard and help you save on your water bill at the same time.

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, a rain barrel will save its owner approximately 1,300 gallons of water during the peak summer months. Uses for rainwater abound: watering gardens, indoor houseplants and laundry. And some swear by rainwater for washing hair. Garden stores sell plastic rain barrels with leaf screens and spouts for between $75 and $250, but you can set one up for less than $50. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Get a wooden barrel from a winery or whiskey distillery. A rainwater collection system can be as simple as a single plastic garbage can positioned under a gutter downspout, but that won't have much nostalgic charm. With the growth in popularity of wineries, the availability of wooden barrels has greatly increased. If the barrel was drilled for a bung, be sure the cork is still in place, or you'll need to patch it before you can use it as a rain barrel.

2. Drill a hole about 2 inches up from the bottom of the barrel to install a gravity feed system. Choose either a 3/4-inch hose bib or a straight PVC deep socket coupling, to which you can attach a 1-inch-by-3/4-inch threaded adapter to accept a hose coupling. Use a drill-bit or hole-saw size that will allow a tight fit on the hose-bib threads or PVC coupling. For example, for a threaded 3/4-inch hose bib, use a 7/8-inch drill bit, and force the threads of the hose bib into the wooden barrel's stave. Liberally coat the threads of the hose bib or the exterior of the PVC coupling with silicone before forcing it into the hole. Coat around the hose bib or coupling with more silicone, and let it dry well before putting water into the barrel.

3. Install an overflow pipe by drilling another hole approximately 2 inches down from the top of the barrel, and inserting a short length of PVC pipe, again gluing the pipe into place with silicone. Attach a 90-degree elbow, and run another length of PVC pipe down toward the ground. You may want to attach additional pipe to deliver any overflow water to a nearby flowerbed, garden or stretch of lawn.

4. Position the barrel under your gutter downspout. You can have the downspout either right above the barrel or inside the barrel. If you plan to dip water directly out of your rain barrel, you can remove the entire top, or you can cut a hole just large enough for the downspout to enter the barrel. If you choose to have the downspout above the barrel, cut a piece of 1/2-inch mesh hardware cloth to cover the opening or the entire top of the barrel. This will act as a screen to keep leaves and debris out of the water.

5. Raise your rain barrel at least a foot off the ground to attain enough pressure to feed water through a garden hose. Your rain barrel system will gain about .43 PSI for every foot the barrel is lifted above the ground. One to 2 feet should be plenty of height. Use cinder blocks or pavers to build a platform.

6. Add a second barrel and a simple siphon arrangement if you want to capture more water. Use a siphon hose to maintain the water level between the barrels. Drill a hole slightly larger than the hose you'll use for the siphon about 2 inches below the top of each barrel. With each barrel at least half full of water, coil the hose and sink it in one of the barrels. Weight one end of the hose by tying it to a brick or other heavy weight. Tightly cork the other end of the hose while it is still underwater, and move it to the other barrel. Weight this end of the hose as well, and remove the cork with the hose still under water. Siphon action will pull water from one barrel to the other.

Tags: rain barrel, 4-inch hose, about inches, above barrel, barrel least

The Advantages Of Barrel Length On A Paintball Gun

An paintballer takes aim.

The original paintball guns were pistols with barrels that were 4 to 6 inches long. One of the first common modifications were barrel extensions that added length. As paintball gun designs evolved, interchangeable barrels quickly became standard. This led to experiments with lengths and designs, looking for the best compromise of accuracy, efficiency, and maneuverability. After 30 years, there is still no "best" standard, but players can decide what works best for them based on several criteria.

Lengths

Paintball gun barrels are typically offered in even lengths, with the common mass-produced lengths being 8-inch, 10-inch, 12-inch, 14-inch, and 16-inch. This is based on raw materials length and minimizing unusable leftovers. 11-inch and 13-inch barrels have been produced and sold but those are uncommon, as are barrels that are 18 inches or longer.

Accuracy

This player takes aim on an X-ball field.

The biggest reason most players change paintball gun barrels is to improve accuracy. A common notion is that longer barrels shoot straighter. This is partly a myth. Tests show that accuracy is not determined by the barrel length. Accuracy is a product of consistency, using good-quality paint that snugly fits the inside of the barrel. However, a longer barrel may help a player aim more precisely due to increased sight radius, or the distance between the back of the gun and the tip of the barrel. This leads to the perception that a longer barrel is more accurate.

Efficiency

A 12-inch ported barrel is a good choice for efficiency.

Tests by Airgun Designs and Palmers Pursuit Shop indicate that for best efficiency (shots per a given volume of propellant), 8- to 10-inch nonported barrels are ideal. Paintball guns shooting carbon dioxide benefit from slightly longer barrels than ones shooting compressed air.

Maneuverability

A good barrel won't slow you down!

When handling a paintball gun, the longer the barrel, the more careful you must be about bumping it into obstacles or sticking it in the ground. Also, a long barrel made of a heavier metal, such as steel or brass, can make your paintball gun front-heavy and slower to aim, which can be a disadvantage in a fast-moving game. However, in games with lots of brush or with inflatable bunkers, you can use a longer barrel to avoid exposing yourself to opponents.

Cost

For most mass-produced barrels, there is not a notable cost difference based on length. An 8-inch aluminum barrel costs approximately the same as a 14-inch aluminum barrel from the same manufacturer. However, differences in cost and materials do come into play with 16-inch and longer barrels. For example, aluminum typically costs less than stainless steel, which costs less than carbon fiber.

Tags: longer barrel, longer barrels, aluminum barrel, barrel more, barrels that, costs less

How Big Of A Storage Tank Do You Need For A Rainwater Collection System

Rainwater that flows off roofs or downspouts can be easily harvested.

Harvesting rainwater provides both environmental and economic benefits. In areas where yard and garden plants require watering, employ a rainfall collection system. These systems save property owners money because they do not have to pay extra for the water they are using for irrigation. Using harvested rainwater also can help to prevent droughts as well as flooding that can be caused by rainwater runoff. The size storage tank needed will depend on the size and intended use of the collection system. Does this Spark an idea?

Passive Collection System

No tank is required for a passive rainwater collection system. Such systems work better in climates with average or above-average rainfall. Soil and mulch are used in such a way as to maximize the benefits of regular rainfall. Special channels and shallow basins are dug directly into the soil, allowing the rainwater to naturally percolate through the soil. Mulch is used around plants to keep them moist and preserve them from the drying effects of the sun.

Purchased Container

Ready-made rainwater collection barrels are available for purchase. These range in size from 50 to 65 gallons. The arrels come already fitted with lids and screens, as well as a spigot that allows you attach a hose or fill a watering container with the harvested water. Depending on the size of the area you need to water and the amount of rainfall you receive, a single barrel may be enough to meet your needs. If not, a series of barrels may be used by connecting the barrels to one another via tubing or a pipe.

Repurposed Container

Construct a rainwater collection barrel easily from other less expensive containers. This structure also allows for a different-sized container to be used. The barrel will need to have a fitted top and screen as well as a spigot. Containers that are dark and opaque inhibit algae growth on stored water. Wooden wine barrels as well as food grade plastic barrels or containers can be turned into a rainwater collection barrel.

Larger Systems

If the rainwater collection system is for a larger, commercial entity or if the system will be filtered and used for regular household water consumption, a larger storage tank or cistern will need to be used. These types can be built either above or below ground and can be constructed from a variety of materials. Estimate the size needed for a system that will supply all household water based on the amount of water used each month and the amount of rainfall that falls each month.

Tags: rainwater collection, amount rainfall, collection barrel, collection system, collection system

Build Your Own Garage For Cheap

Build an A-frame roof versus flat.

Design a garage to build inexpensively by constructing a one-car structure with an A-frame roof pitched to harmonize with your home's existing roof line. Steer clear of building a flat roof to save money, since you don't want to detract from your home's value. To build cheap, you will need to enclose the garage in exterior-grade masonry siding versus brick or cinder blocks. An inexpensive garage is more do-able by utilizing some recycled materials as well. For example, you might use windows someone removed from their home during a remodel.

Instructions

1. Decide the exact perimeter of the garage and dig footings for a concrete pour. Hire a block mason to lay a short foundational wall around the perimeter. Have him construct the wall by using mortar to lay just two rows of cinder blocks directly on the concrete footings. This wall will support the wooden garage framing to be built. When foundational blocks are laid, be sure to leave a drive-in opening for the car at ground level. Put down 3 inches of gravel on top of the dirt to make an inexpensive floor.

2. Begin framing the walls and roof area by installing the first row of lumber around the cinder blocks. Use four-inch concrete nails to secure 2 x 8 boards (lying flat capping the block perimeter) to the blocks. Place metal flashing between the wood and the cinder blocks. Frame the garage walls with 2 x 8 lumber to include openings for windows and a walk-out door. Buy roof trusses or build your own rafters onsite with 2 x 8 lumber. Nail exterior masonry siding into place to cover the exterior. Secure siding with 4-inch stainless steel flat-head screws. Fit the pieces as tightly together at the seams as possible and caulk seams.

3. Install doors, windows and guttering next. Find a used garage door and used windows to install, if possible. Trade with friends or place an ad in a local paper. Refinish rough garage door and windows by sanding and painting before installing. Find a side door to install as a walk-out door on the garage. A side door is essential since a garage can catch fire and you'll need an escape route.

4. Install roofing and surrounding materials. Install 1/2-inch exterior-grade plywood to cover the roof and box in overhangs. Nail shingles into place. Hang guttering with 10-inch guttering nails. Install downspouts and lay pre-made concrete splashblocks. If you don't want to invest in downspouts and splashblocks, create an inexpensive way to carry off rain. A corrugated hose material attached to top guttering can serve as a downspout. Use a large barrel to catch the rain.

5. Hang the garage door on hinges after you've installed extra framing at the door opening to hold the weight of the door. Install tracking for garage doors, if you want to include it in your budget. Spend time to make the garage door either swing open easily on strong hinges or fine-tune the tracking so the door will rise easily. How well the garage door works will make using the garage much handier.

Tags: garage door, cinder blocks, A-frame roof, into place, masonry siding

Get More Horsepower Out Of A Chevy 350

A Chevrolet 350 big block.

Do you feel the need for more speed? Horsepower is measured by the amount of time it takes a vehicle to perform a given task. Acceleration and speed increase with horsepower. Muscle-car enthusiasts believe you can never have too much horsepower. Since horsepower equals time and time equals money at the drag strip, the enthusiasts are right. Getting from point A to point B doesn't have to happen at breakneck speeds, but every once in a while its nice to hit the gas. Adding horsepower to your stock 350 will ensure you aren't left at the starting line.

Instructions

1. Exchange the stock two-barrel carburetor for a four-barrel carburetor. Pressing the accelerator will not make you go faster if more fuel doesn't make it to the carburetor. 350 Chevy engines often come from the factory with a two-barrel carburetor. Changing to a four-barrel carburetor will allow for more fuel when you need it. In normal driving conditions the carburetor will operate under two barrels, the other two only opening during excessive acceleration.

2. Take the cylinder heads to a machine shop for porting and polishing. The amount of horsepower achieved depends on the air flow received. A machine shop can port and polish the heads safely and correctly. When done wrong a port and polish job will lower performance. Ask the machine shop if a set of Chevrolet 305 cylinder heads can be added. The addition of smaller heads improves compression.

3. Change the stock Chevrolet air intake for an aftermarket cold-air intake. Cold-air intakes allow cooler air to be brought to the top of the engine. Denser air (colder air) provides a more powerful burn than air taken from around a warm engine. A cold-air intake will change the amount of horsepower by five to 20 points depending upon brand.

4. Bolt on a supercharger. This step involves changing the design of your hood, but the addition of a supercharger definitely increases horsepower. Installing a super ,charger will give a 35 to 40 percent boost to your horsepower rate.

5. Change the fuel pump to a high-flow fuel pump. Many changes to improve horsepower made to a vehicle forces more air into the combustion chambers. Without the proper air-to-fuel ratio the car will spit, sputter and stall. Creating a balance between increased air and fuel is the key to increasing horsepower.

6. Change the stock exhaust to an aftermarket exhaust system. A stock exhaust system impedes the flow of exhaust from the engine. Performance exhaust is larger and provides a better flow rate, increasing horsepower performance and fuel economy.

Tags: machine shop, amount horsepower, carburetor will, Change stock, cold-air intake

Build A First Flush Diverter

A first flush diverter might sound like something that you connect to a toilet. In fact, it connects to your gutters, and consists of two PVC pipes. One pipe is capped to trap water. When the first rush or flush of water comes down your gutters when it rains, the water cleans the gutters. The capped pipe holds this first flow of water and then allows the cleaner water to drain into a rain barrel. The director essentially acts as a filter to remove sludge, leaves and other debris from water you will use on your lawn. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Remove the downspout from your gutter. Drill the existing hole with a 3-inch hole saw and electric drill. This creates a hole large enough for a 3-inch PVC bulkhead.

2. Place the top of the bulkhead into the gutter. Thread the bottom half of the bulkhead onto the portion of the bulkhead that protrudes down through the gutter.

3. Slide a 3-inch diameter, 45-degree elbow onto the end of the bulkhead. Position the elbow so the opening faces toward the wall of your house.

4. Slide a 3-inch diameter, 90-degree elbow onto the straight section of your 3-inch diameter PVC Y-pipe splitter. Measure the length of the elbow and splitter with a tape measure.

5. Measure the distance between the 45-degree elbow to the wall. Subtract the length of the 90-degree elbow and splitter.

6. Cut a section of 3-inch diameter PVC pipe to the measurement obtained in step 5. Use a miter saw to cut the pipe.

7. Press the pipe into the 45-degree elbow. Press the Y-splitter onto the end of the PVC pipe. The 90-degree elbow must face downward and the Y-portion of the pipe must face downward.

8. Place a 3-inch to 4-inch adapter onto the end of the T-pipe sticking down.

9. Cut a 30-inch-long piece of 4-inch diameter PVC pipe with the miter saw. Slide the pipe into the 4-inch adapter.

10. Place a 4-inch diameter plastic ball inside the tube. Press a 4-inch diameter cap onto the end of the 4-inch pipe. This is the holding tank for the diverted water. As the water flows into the diverter, the ball will rise and prevent water from coming out of the diverter.

11. Place a 55-gallon drum against the wall directly below the 90-degree elbow. Measure the distance between the bottom of the elbow and the top of the drum. Cut a piece of 3-inch diameter PVC tubing to match that measurement. Place the pipe into the 90-degree elbow. Once the diverter fills up, the water will then flow into the 55-gallon drum.

12. Disassemble the entire diverter. Clean all of the mating surfaces with PVC cleaner and then glue each piece together with PVC glue.

Tags: 3-inch diameter, 90-degree elbow, 45-degree elbow, 4-inch diameter, pipe into

Start A Marine Construction Company

Marine construction companies operate barge-mounted work equipment.

Marine construction work includes diverse residential and commercial projects. Crews commonly build small docks and boathouses at private homes, construct small and large marina facilities and install breakwaters and jetties in areas prone to wave action. Marine construction companies also dredge channels to keep them open for navigation. Depending on the company's equipment and capabilities, some marine construction contractors also build commercial piers and ferry terminals throughout their region. Some projects combine more than one type of marine construction.

Instructions

1. Establish your marine construction company business with the aid of a Certified Public Accountant familiar with marine service businesses. Consult a commercial insurance agent with similar expertise, plus strong liability background. Obtain a business license at your city or county clerk's office. Contact your state Department of Revenue to determine if you are required to pay sales tax on your marine construction services.

2. Select your operations and office locations. Your company's marine construction equipment, including barges and pile-driving machinery, requires easily accessible dockage near the entrance channel. Ensure that you have adjacent, secure outdoor storage space for construction equipment, pilings and dock components. Locate your office at the marina if possible, although a nearby location is also feasible.

3. Analyze your regional marine construction market. Residential marine construction work is influenced by home owners' discretionary income, plus local regulations and covenants that govern in-water structures. Municipal marine construction projects may be subject to funding constraints. Commercial marine construction can be tied to companies' financial health. Consider these factors as you examine your regional market for marine construction opportunities. Finally, learn about waterfront residential communities with planned dock facilities.

4. Obtain state and local marine construction permits before you begin a marine construction project. For example, the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources notes that counties, cities and water management authorities commonly issue marine construction permits. The United States Army Corps of Engineers also issues marine construction work permits. Some permits cover nationwide work, while others relate to local projects with specific parameters. The Corps provides comprehensive guidelines to help marine construction companies navigate the permitting process.

5. Hire qualified marine construction professionals. The United States Bureau of Labor Statistics notes that marine construction projects, such as bulkheads and water-based building foundations, often begin with pile-driving operations. Pile driving is often barge based, and utilizes the services of construction workers who are experts at moving the equipment and pilings into desired positions. Look for experienced construction workers who are comfortable working on the water, are safety conscious and have a good attention to detail.

6. Purchase your marine construction equipment. For a dredging operation, for example, purchase a barge-mounted crane with equipment that can lift heavy dredge spill material onto a second barge. For a dock-building project, buy a barge fitted with pile-driving equipment and supplies, along with a small tender to hold workers who need to move around the site. Obtain new or used equipment from a specialty marine equipment supplier or from a commercial marine industry marketplace.

7. Market your services throughout your region. Approach your market on three fronts. Contact master planners for upscale residential waterfront communities, and express your desire to contract for the waterfront construction work. Examine local government plans for development or expansion of waterfront attractions and marinas. Finally, contact the United States Army Corps of Engineers to bid on marine construction projects. Bids are coordinated through the Corps' district office within your jurisdiction.

Tags: marine construction, marine construction, construction work, construction companies, construction equipment, construction projects, marine construction