Potential Causes Of Roof Leaks

One potential cause of a roof leak is an improperly mounted roof attachment.

Just about any type of roof may leak under certain conditions. Moreover, most roofs begin to leak when you least expect it and at very inopportune times. When your roof springs a leak during a storm, don't take a chance on injuring yourself by trying to locate or repair a leak. Wait for the storm to subside before you try to locate the origin of the leak. Does this Spark an idea?

Flashing

Pliable, flat sheets of metal called flashing are the metal sheets you see fastened in roof valleys, at hip joints and around the base of chimneys and vent pipes. These sheets act as a safeguard against water infiltration. Flashing fastens in place above the surface of the roof and under roofing shingles or other types of roof covering. If you install these metal sheets incorrectly, or don't install them at all, damp spots may appear on an outside wall or on surfaces adjacent to chimney and vent pipes.

Downspouts

When leaves and twigs clog a downspout, water from melting ice or rain seeks alternate avenues of escape. The water may back up above the roof gutters, soak its way under roof shingles and eventually saturate the roof sheathing. Water back-up can lead to exterior paint failure and wood rot within the fascia and roof soffit. Chances are you have a clogged gutter when you notice water spilling over the lip of a gutter or continuous dripping from gutter joints.

Eaves

Ice accumulates in and around the eaves of a home or apartment building during the winter months. The heat from the interior of the structure escapes into spaces under the roof and warms the ice that has built up in the eaves. The water from the melting ice is forced back up under the roof shingles and finds its way to the ceilings or walls within the building. Sagging gutters or peeling exterior paint around the eaves is an indication of damage caused by ice-clogged eaves.

Deterioration

Roof surfaces, regardless of pitch or slope, deteriorate the quickest on the side of the roof with southern exposure. This is especially true with wooden shake or shingle coverings. Cracks develop as the deterioration progresses and water from rain and melting ice eventually finds its way through the roof covering and seeps into the interior ceilings of the structure. The best way to determine roof deterioration is by conducting a physical inspection.

Holes

You might have a missing shingle on your roof or a roofing nail may have popped out leaving an empty hole. Water has a way of finding its way around missing shingles and into holes that remain open in the roof. Conditions of this type may lead to wet spots on ceilings within the structure. Check for drip trails, wet spots or shafts of light shining through the roof and into the attic.

Tags: under roof, water from, around eaves, exterior paint, from melting, metal sheets

Make Your Own Bucket & Spigot Tabletop Fountain

Make Your Own Bucket & Spigot Tabletop Fountain

A fountain made from a bucket and spigot is most often found in a garden or backyard. The spigot is usually attached to a pipe that's inserted into the ground for stability, with a bucket placed alongside as the reservoir. By revising the design of the outdoor garden fountain, you can create your own bucket and spigot tabletop fountain. An instant stress reliever both indoors and out, this bucket and spigot fountain is best suited for a rustic or primitive-style patio or sunroom.

Instructions

1. Measure the height of your bucket. Cut a length of copper pipe twice the height of the bucket.

2. Measure to the halfway point of the pipe, subtract 3 inches and make a mark. Drill a ¾-inch hole in one side of the pipe on the mark. Do not drill straight through the pipe. You'll need this hole to insert the plastic tubing inside the copper pipe for channeling the water from the bucket to the spigot.

3. Solder the copper fitting to the spigot and to the end of the copper pipe farthest away from the drilled hole.

4. Stack two half-bricks inside the bucket. These should provide enough weight to keep your fountain from tipping over when you attach the spigot.

5. Attach the copper pipe to the side of the bucket with pipe brackets. Make sure that the hole is facing inside the bucket. Place one bracket below the drilled hole and one above the hole. Drill pilot holes into the metal bucket to make attaching the brackets easier.

6. Place the submersible fountain pump inside the bucket. Locate the water spout on the pump. Attach one end of the plastic tubing to the water spout. Insert the other end inside the copper pipe. Run the tubing close to the top of the pipe where the spigot is attached.

7. Run the electrical cord from the pump over the side of the bucket, close to the copper pipe. Using duct tape the same color as the bucket will help camouflage the cord on the outside of the bucket.

8. Fill the bucket with water before turning on the fountain pump.

Tags: copper pipe, inside bucket, bucket spigot, Bucket Spigot Tabletop, bucket with, drilled hole, fountain pump

Make A Wood Rain Barrel

It is helpful to collect as much rain water as possible to keep plants and flowers hydrated and healthy during the drier seasons. One way to accomplish this is to make rain barrels, which catch rain water and store it until needed. Rather than turning on a garden hose or sprinkler system, you can open your rain barrels and water your plants sufficiently. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Drill two holes in your rain barrel, one about four inches from the top lip, the other about four to six inches from the bottom using a drill and paddle bit. Each hole should accommodate the outdoor water faucets' sizes, which is typically 3/4 inches in diameter. The top hole will act as an overflow valve; the lower valve will act as a watering valve.

2. Wrap each outdoor water faucet's threading in Teflon tape and then twist one into each hole to seal the connection. Shut both faucets off, then rinse and clean the rain barrel. Fill the barrel with water, using a garden hose; add 2 teaspoons of vinegar plus 2 teaspoons of mild detergent for every gallon of water added. Open the bottom faucet and let the barrel empty. Rinse twice to clean the barrel entirely.

3. Stretch louver screen over the top of the barrel. Pull it taut over the barrel's opening and staple it in place along the ridge of the barrel. Set the rain barrel on brick pavers -- so not to kill all the grass directly under the rain barrel -- under a cut-off downspout or a place where the shape of the house funnels water off the roof.

4. Connect a garden hose to the top valve and open it. Position the garden hose away from your plants and flowers and the foundation of your house. Shut the bottom valve off. This configuration will allow overflow water to run away from your garden, lawn or home while preserving as much rain water as the barrel can hold. When needed, attach a garden hose to the bottom faucet and turn it on to water.

Tags: garden hose, rain barrel, rain water, about four, about four inches, away from

Buy A Rain Barrel

Buy a Rain Barrel

Rain barrels provide access to abundant clean water for your gardens and flowers. Using a rain barrel is one of the best and simplest ways to go green. Get the most out of your rain barrel by considering your requirements and needs before making the purchase. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Estimate the quantity of water you'll need for your garden in gallons of rainwater per month.

2. Calculate the available rainfall water supply for your rain barrel. Use the average inches of rainfall per month to calculate the gallons-per-month rainwater yield of your home's various roof surfaces. For every 1,000 square feet of roof surface, 1/2 inch of rain will produce 280 gallons of rainwater. To calculate rainwater yield more specifically, use the rainwater yield table (see Resources).

3. Use the smaller number of gallons in steps 1 and 2 to determine the size of rain barrel to purchase. Commercially-sold rain barrels range in size from 34 to 300 gallons.

4. Based on the location of your rain barrel (under which roof), as determined in step 2, select the specific design, shape, material and color of rain barrel that best fits the location. Consider size, appearance and location.

5. Decide which mechanism for accessing water from the rain barrel best fits your needs. Options include spigots, hoses, taps and rubber or wooden plugs. Choose the barrel that fits your requirement.

6. Make sure the rain barrel has an overflow outlet that allows water in excess of barrel capacity to drain off in a controlled condition. Overflow hoses or pipes should be of sufficient length to feed into a drain pipe, or other water-runoff mechanism, that will carry the water away from the foundation of your house.

7. Make sure the rain barrel has a drain plug in the lowest part of the barrel so that stale water may be drained periodically, and silt and accumulated debris may be removed.

8. Make sure that the top of the rain barrel has a wire screen to prevent mosquito and other insects or trash from entering the barrel.

Tags: rain barrel, rain barrel, barrel that, Make sure, rainwater yield

Catch Rainwater To Drink

Catch Rainwater to Drink

Rainwater is a free source of water that can be used for a number of things, even drinking. There are various ways of catching rainwater for personal use. Some are easier than other to set up, but need more preparation before drinking the water. There is no right or wrong way to catch rainwater, and one way to catch the water is to use the downspout found on most homes to drain water from the gutters and roof of the house. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Clean the roof and gutter on your home, as well as the barrel or bucket you are using. Remove any leaves and debris that collected into the gutters and rinse out with a water hose. Soap and water can be used, but isn't necessary.

2. Cut a 4-inch long piece of PVC pipe. Drill a hole in the center of the plywood big enough to place the piece of 1/2-inch PVC pipe through. Place the PVC pipe through the hole in the plywood and glue in place.

3. Cut a hole in the bottom of the small bucket. Place the five-gallon bucket on top of the PVC pipe that's sticking out of the top of the piece of plywood. Glue the bucket in place.

4. Place a layer of cotton batting 1-inch thick in the bottom of the bucket. Place a carbon or charcoal filter (purchased at aquarium stores) on top of the cotton batting that you placed into the bottom of the bucket. The cotton batting and charcoal filter filters the rain water, so you can drink it.

5. Place the plywood with the bucket attached to it on top of the barrel. This will block out any dirty water from entering the barrel.

6. Measure the height of the barrel with the ply wood and bucket on top of it and cut the drain spout to where the mouth of the spout hangs 6 to 8 inches above the top of the barrel.

7. Measure the end of the drain spout and cut a piece of screen or net the same size as the measurements. Place the screen or net on the bottom of the drain spout. This will eliminate most debris that may enter the drain spout from entering the barrel .

8. Place the barrel underneath the drain spout -- directly underneath it. Level the area as needed with your foot or use a shovel. Bricks and stones also can be used to level the area if needed.

9. Wait for the rain. Place 10 to 12 drops of bleach into every gallon of water you harvest to prevent bacteria growth when storing. Chlorine tablets can be used as well; just follow the manufacturer's instructions. To disinfect small amounts of water, boil the water for several minutes to kill any bacteria.

Tags: drain spout, cotton batting, area needed, barrel Measure, bottom bucket, Catch Rainwater Drink, charcoal filter

Make A Rain Barrel With A Pump

A rain barrel is installed under a downspout.

Rain barrels collect water from a roof gutter system. The collected water is distributed through a hose spigot installed at the bottom of the rain barrel. The available water pressure depends on the height of the barrel. However, attaching a water pump to the hose spigot will increase the water pressure so a sprinkler can be used to distribute the water. A plastic barrel is the best collection device, since it won't rust over time. An open-top plastic barrel is easy to turn into a rain barrel, because you only have to cut one hole in the exterior. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Remove the top ring and cover from the open-top barrel. Set the barrel on its side on top of a firm surface, such as concrete patio or driveway. Squirt some dish soap inside and add water with a garden hose. Scrub the interior with the brush. Rinse the barrel and allow it to dry.

2. Install the 1-inch hole saw into the drill. Measure 1 1/2 inches from the bottom of the barrel and make a mark on the exterior with your black marker.

3. Place the hole saw's center drill bit on the mark. Drill out the hole. Lay an even bead of silicone caulk on the exterior and interior of the drilled hole.

4. Remove the inner locking ring from the hose spigot. Insert the hose spigot through the hole in the barrel, keeping the valve handle on top. Screw the inner locking ring onto the threads of the hose spigot, inside the barrel. Tighten the locking ring in a clockwise direction with plumber's pliers. Wait 24 hours for the silicone caulk to cure.

5. Place the barrel under a gutter downspout. Place two patio pavers under the barrel if you wish to keep it from sinking into the soil. Orient the barrel so the spigot faces the yard for easy access.

6. Center the aluminum or fiberglass screen over the large opening of the barrel. Fit the barrel's outer plastic ring over the screen. Turn the ring, clockwise, a couple of times to secure the screen in place.

7. Install the inline garden pump's hose adapter onto the rain barrel's spigot. Connect the hose to the inlet on the pump; the pump fittings are labeled "inlet" and "outlet." Attach the garden hose to the outlet of the garden pump. Set the third patio paver next to the barrel and set the pump on it so it doesn't settle into the soil.

8. Wait until it rains and the collection barrel is full of water. Attach the extension cord, if needed, to the pump. Plug the pump into an outdoor outlet. Water under pressure will begin running from the end of the garden hose.

Tags: hose spigot, garden hose, locking ring, rain barrel, barrel barrel, barrel spigot

Make An Outdoor Hydroponic System

Grow vegetables in a hydroponic system.

The hydroponics method of gardening uses water and a soilless medium to grow vegetables, herbs and flowers. Making your own outdoor hydroponic system is low in cost and allows you to control the amount of nutrients available to the plants for optimum growth. A deep-water outdoor system requires minimal supplies found at most hardware or discount stores. After the completion of the summer growing season, you can move the system indoors to continue growing plants through the winter months. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Verify the cover latches onto the container tightly. Remove the cover and put it on a flat surface with the top facing upward. Set 11 netted pots upside down on the cover so they are spaced evenly in two rows of four pots and a center row with three pots.

2. Trace the rim of each netted pot onto the cover with a permanent marker. Remove the pots after tracing. Use a compass to locate the exact center of each traced circle. Short the compass by 1/2 inch and mark a circle inside each of the netted pot tracings.

3. Remove the inside circle by cutting the cover with a sharp knife. Slit around each circle from the cutting to the outside marking. Bend the slits downward to create flaps that hold the netted pots in the hydroponic cover. Set the cover aside.

4. Attach the air tubing to an air stone. Set the stone inside the tub and feed the opposite end through the air vents in the container handle. Drill a hole above the handle if there are no air vents. Attach the outside tube end to the air pump.

5. Create an elevated pad for the hydroponic container by setting three wood slats or three to six bricks on a flat surface in a sunny area. Set the container on top of the slats before adding water.

6. Place the air pump 12 to 18 inches from the container to prevent water splashing on it from the container. Invert a small plastic container and place it over the pump as extra protection from splashing and rain.

7. Assemble the hydroponics system by placing the lid on the container. Add water to the container until it is approximately 3 inches below the cover. Mix hydroponics nutrients into the water using the package instructions based on the water volume.

8. Assemble the growing area by filling the 11 netted pots with hydroponics medium and planting the seedlings into the pots. Set each pot into a hole in the cover. Verify that the bottom of each pot is under at least 1 inch of water. Add more water if necessary.

Tags: netted pots, cover with, each netted, flat surface, from container, hydroponic system

Rain Drops On A Photo

Bitmap editing software can be used to create realistic-looking raindrops.

Sometimes, even a well-composed photograph could benefit from some minor digital enhancements. Photo editing software can create extraordinary elements in photographs, or simply heighten what is already there. A digitally produced raindrop, for example, might be just the thing a photo needs to catch a viewer's attention. Creating a raindrop in a photograph is a fairly simple task, and the result is rather convincing.

Instructions

1. Double-click the desktop icon for the bitmap editing software to launch it, or click "Start," then "Programs" and select the bitmap editing software from the programs list.

2. Click "File," then "Open." Navigate to the folder on your computer where the digital photo is stored, select it and click "Open" to open it in the editor's workspace.

3. Click "Layer," then "New" to create a transparent layer on top of the photo.

4. Click "Tools," then "Circle" or "Ellipse."

5. Click and drag in the workspace to create a circle or oval that is about the size of the raindrop you wish to create.

6. Click "Foreground Color" and set it to black. Click "Background Color" and set it to white.

7. Click "Tools," then click "Gradient."

8. Click and drag from one side of the oval shape to the other to make a gradient that smoothly fades from black to white.

9. Click "Layer," then "Blend Mode," and select "Overlay." Make sure the layer oval layer is selected as you do this.

10. Click "Blending Options." Under "Drop Shadow," set "Opacity" to 50, "Angle" to 160, "Distance" to 7, and "Size" to 5. "Inner Shadow" settings should be similar, except "Opacity" should be greater (~75) and "Distance" should be smaller (~5).

11. Create a new layer.

12. Click "Tools," then "Brush." Click somewhere in the middle of the raindrop to make a small white dot. This gives the raindrop a "glow" effect.

Tags: editing software, Click Tools, Click Tools then, Tools then, bitmap editing, bitmap editing software

Make A Doll House Roof

Doll house roofs can be closed on one or both sides. Some are hinged, which allows easy access. The area under the roof is often used as a nursery or playroom for the doll house children. Doll house roofs can be shingled, thatched, tiled, or can be simple, flat sheets of thin plywood. You can truss them for authenticity and realism. You can make doll house roofs flush with the walls of the house, overhung, or cantilevered over breezeways and courtyards. You can make them slightly pitched, gabled or steeply pitched. You can even attach gutters and down spouts, including cisterns or rain barrels at ground level.

Instructions

1. After you have nailed or screwed your doll house walls together, cut two or more sheets of plywood to make the sides of the roof. These will be identical if the roof is a simple, two-sided, standard pitch roof. For gabled roof construction, reduce the scale of plans from an actual home and cut pieces to the correct dimensions. For example, a flat, modern roof with shallow pitch might require only one sheet to cover the entire roof.

2. If you made your doll house side walls from pentagonal sheets of plywood, your roof pitch is already established. Simply lay one sheet of plywood across the back of the roof. Nail it into place using finishing tacks and a tack hammer, or screw it into place using wood screws.

3. If your roof will be hinged, set the piano hinge along the roof ridge line and screw it into place. Attach the other side of the hinge to the second side of the roof. If the roof will not be hinged, attach the second side of the roof using removable clips, or leave it off altogether.

4. Thatch, tile or shingle the roof if you want. Otherwise, paint the roof black, brown, or tile red.

To thatch, coat the roof with a thin layer of rubber cement. Lay straw across the roof until it is covered. Allow the roof to dry. Coat the entire roof with rubber cement a second time. Lay down some straw again, taking care to cover any spots left bare in the first layer. Repeat a third time.

To shingle, cut cedar shakes or use flakes of slate. Begin at the lowest edge of the roof and work toward the ridge line, gluing rows of overlapped shingles. Miter the shingles along the ridge line for a tight, clean fit.

To tile the roof, cover the roof with rubber cement and lay rows of tile, butted together side by side. Overlap each row halfway as you work toward the ridge line.

5. Attach gutters and down spouting. For added realism, run the spout lines into rain barrels or a cistern.

Tags: ridge line, roof with, doll house, house roofs, into place, rubber cement

Buy An Automatic Sprinkler System

Depending on your climate, an automatic sprinkler system for some or all of your garden is either a nice luxury or a near necessity. While a well-designed system can save you time, energy and water, it can also be expensive, often up to $5,500 for an average-size yard. Planning and installing it is complex and best left to the experts. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Decide how much of your yard needs irrigation beyond normal rainfall. Lawns are probably the biggest water hogs. Vegetables and flowers need constant moisture during the growing season. Shrubs and trees with deeper roots can get by with less frequent watering. You can irrigate all of these plants with the same system, set at different intervals and employing various types of sprinkler heads.

2. Consider an underground system for the parts of your yard whose basic layout won't change every year--lawns and large planted areas of trees, shrubs and flowers. These systems are constructed of pipes installed several inches underground, with sprinkler heads placed at intervals. Divide the system into different zones, depending on varying water needs.

3. Sketch the whole area, indicating planted spaces and existing watering systems.

4. Hire a pro by checking online or in the Yellow Pages under "Irrigation Systems and Equipment." Home improvement centers can provide design and installation as well as parts. Talk to landscape contractors, plumbing-supply stores, and experienced residential gardeners.

5. Study online tutorials even if you have turned the project over to a professional. One good source of information is Lowes.com.

6. Make sure you understand the automatic timer. You'll be the one adjusting and changing it with the seasons. Timers cost $50 and up, with cost determined by quality as well as the number of zones the timer serves.

7. Consider low-tech solutions such as soaker hoses to supplement underground sprinklers.

8. Look into drip or micro-irrigation systems (low volume, low pressure), which work very effectively in flower and vegetable beds that change from year to year. Drip-system kits, starting at $25 or so, are easy to install; use underground emitters that drip slowly or above-ground emitters that drip, mist or spray at a low-pressure rate.

9. Use drip lines and emitters to water container plants, especially if you are often away from home during the growing season. You'll find inexpensive kits designed for just this purpose.

Tags: during growing, during growing season, emitters that, emitters that drip, growing season, sprinkler heads

Use Bleach In My Backyard Pond

Can I Use Bleach in My Backyard Pond?

It might be tempting to pour some household bleach into your backyard pond to clean it up, but unless the pond is devoid of life of any kind, steer clear of bleach. The purpose of a backyard pond is to create a small wildlife environment for the benefit of animals and insects as well as people. Bleach, which is toxic to fish, plants and animals, is not compatible with a backyard pond's purpose. Does this Spark an idea?

Why Bleach is Bad for Ponds

One of the ways to establish life in a backyard pond is to maintain a colony of beneficial bacteria. Household bleach, which contains chlorine, kills bacteria. This is helpful in kitchens and bathrooms, but your backyard pond needs good bacteria to keep algae in check and benefit fish.

Bleach is harmful to visible pond life as well. Plants cannot handle large amounts of bleach, though the chlorine level in tap water will not harm vegetation. Bleach also kills fish, insects and frogs that may be living in and around your pond. Bleach will kill unwanted bacteria and algae, but at the expense of everything else in the pond. Instead, if you have problems with the overgrowth of certain types of algae or bacteria, purchase a pond additive to manage this specific issue.

When It's Safe to Use Bleach

The only time bleach is acceptable to use in a pond is if all plant and animal life has been removed and you intend to start the pond over from scratch. Even in this instance, do not add bleach to existing water. Empty the water, then clean the pond liner or hard mold with a bleach and water solution. Rinse the pond thoroughly, then add fresh water. For the safety of plants and fish, use a chlorine remover to detoxify the water before adding pond life.

You can use a bleach and water solution to clean statues, figurines and plant containers if you remove the items from the pond before cleaning them. Make sure they are thoroughly rinsed before putting them back in the water.

Proper Pond Cleaning

If you have put your pond together thoughtfully with proper planning and research, it should need only minimal cleaning. Algae tends to be one of the biggest problems for pond owners, but instead of using an algae-killing additive, plan your pond in a way that discourages algae overgrowth. Use plants for shading, because algae needs sunlight to grow. Add plants and animals that feed off algae. Use an underwater vacuum occasionally to thin out algae on the pond floor, but be careful of fish and plant roots. Do not overfeed fish; if you do, fish waste can build up too quickly, making water dirty and encouraging algae growth. Clean statues, figurines or pots that are in and around the water. Use a pool skimmer to remove dead leaves in the fall. Drain the pond to winterize it if your area has a cold winter climate.

Tags: your pond, backyard pond, backyard pond, Bleach Backyard, Bleach Backyard Pond, bleach water

Homemade Goldfish Pond Barrel Filter

A barrel filter is one option for cleaning pond water.

Simple barrel upflow filters can greatly improve water quality in your pond, and are relatively inexpensive to build. However, there is no "one size fits all" filter solution. The size of the filter barrel, density of the filter material, and the strength of the water pump must suit the size of the pond. Experts at aquarium and garden supply stores can often help to identify the appropriate components for your system. Consult with them before beginning construction. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Drain Installation

1. Drill a 2-inch diameter hole in a flat area on the bottom of the barrel at or near the center. Insert the male piece of the shower valve through the hole (from the inside), turn the barrel upside down, and screw on the flange on the outside.

2. Connect an elbow fitting to the outside of the shower valve using a short length of PVC pipe. Test fit these parts---the entire drain should extend less than 8 inches below the barrel. Glue these pieces in place and allow to dry.

3. Connect the knife valve to the elbow on the drain, using a short length of PVC pipe. Test fit these parts---the knife valve should be positioned near (or past) the edge of the barrel for easy access. Glue these pieces in place and allow them to dry.

4. Position the two concrete blocks on the ground with approximately 8 inches between them (along their length). Turn the barrel upright and place it on the concrete blocks---situate the drain between the blocks.

Inflow Installation

5. Drill a hole in the side of the barrel about an inch above the bottom. Insert a bulkhead fitting through the hole, according to the supplier's directions. Use flexible tubing to connect the pump to the outside of this fitting when you install the filter.

6. Connect a short length of PVC pipe to the inside of the bulkhead fitting, using adapters and PVC glue as needed---the PVC pipe should extend to within approximately 2 inches of the barrel center. Connect and glue the PVC T fitting to the end of the pipe at the barrel center. Allow glue to dry.

7. Connect an elbow to each side of the T fitting using two short pieces of PVC pipe. Test fit these pieces---the elbows should extend nearly to the edges of the barrel, and should be pointed horizontally in opposite directions. Glue these pieces together and allow to dry.

Filter Media

8. Add two Matala filter rounds to the barrel, placing them on top of the inflow pipe. Use a small piece of PVC pipe to support the bottom of the inflow pipe if necessary.

9. Unfold and wad up the bird netting and add it to the barrel. The netting should fill the barrel to within a foot of the top.

10. Cut or break the plastic lighting cover grate to fit the inside diameter of the barrel. The size doesn't have to be perfect---the grating will simply hold the netting in place. Place the grate in the barrel on top of the bird netting.

Overflow (Return) Drain Installation

11. Drill a hole in the side of the barrel a foot or less below the rim. Insert a bulkhead fitting through the hole, according to the supplier's directions.

12. Connect a short length of PVC pipe to the inside of the bulkhead fitting, using adapters and PVC glue as needed---the PVC pipe should extend to within approximately 2 inches of the barrel center. Connect and glue an elbow fitting to the end of the pipe at the barrel center, with the open end facing up. Allow glue to dry.

13. Connect PVC pipe or flexible tubing to the outside of the bulkhead fitting, using adapters and PVC glue as needed---this pipe will return water to the pond by gravity feed.

14. Connect the pump, allow the filter to fill, and experiment to find optimal overflow drain placement.

Tags: bulkhead fitting, barrel center, fitting using, length pipe, short length

Build A Mineral Feeder For Cattle

For a balanced diet, you need to provide minerals for your cattle's diet.

If you raise meat or dairy cattle, you know that the accessories that are sold in stores and online are priced high. One of the accessories you need for your cattle is a mineral feeder, so that they can get the extra nutritional supplements they need to grow to the desired size and weight. A cheap mineral feeder, such as a simple tray, can be trampled, infested with insects or destroyed quickly. Automated feeders cost well over $100 each as of August of 2011 and have a limited capacity for storing minerals. With a few typically discarded materials you can build your own for less than $30. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Turn the drum so that it is upright. Measure 9 inches from the top of the front of the drum and make a mark with a sharpie. Measure 22 inches downward from that point and make another mark with the sharpie.

2. Drill two pilot holes where you made the mark 9 inches from the top so that the saw blade can be inserted and used to cut the circle.

3. Tape or tie an 18-inch long piece of twine to the end of the sharpie and place the tip of the sharpie in between the mark at the top of the barrel and the one at the bottom. Hold the twine in place and trace around the front of the drum with the marker, outlining a circle. This will create the 18-inch circle that you need to cut out from the barrel.

4. Cut out the circle with the reciprocating saw and discard the cut circle.

5. Drill a 1/8-inch hole in the sidewall of the tractor trailer tire. Insert a 1/8 inch eye hook and screw a bolt on the other side of the sidewall to secure it in place.

6. Lay one of the 2-inch-by-4-inch boards over the center of the tire and secure in place with two 3-inch screws. Secure the remaining boards in the same way, one on the left, the other on the right. Flip the tire over so that the boards rest on the ground.

7. Measure the height of the top rim in the center of the tire. Take that height and divide it by two to get half. Take that total and measure up that many inches up from the bottom of the drum. Drill four 1/8 inch holes around the circumference of the drum at that height.

8. Insert two of the carriage bolts through the inside of the drum and tighten the bolts and washers to the ends of the carriage bolts inside the drum.

9. Place the drum into the tire so that the carriage bolts fit under the lip of the top rim of the tire. Insert the two remaining carriage bolts into the remaining two holes so that each bolt holds the drum in place inside the tire.

10. Drill two 1/8-inch holes 6 inches apart through the groove in the top of the lid. This will help prevent rain from building up inside that groove, keeping mosquitoes from nesting.

11. Fill the mineral feeder with mineral pellets and drag it to the field you need it in.

Tags: carriage bolts, inches from, mineral feeder, center tire, Drill 8-inch, drum that

Install A Moen Tub Diverter

A Moen tub diverter valve cartridge is easy to install even for the most novice do-it-yourselfer.

A Moen tub diverter controls the stream and temperature of water coming into the faucet through water lines. When the faucet is leaking, the handle makes a grinding noise or won't turn,or the water is spitting from the tub spout when the diverter handle is turned, the problem is a worn or broken valve cartridge. The valve cartridge sits behind the diverter handle. Fortunately, a Moen tub diverter valve cartridge is easy to install even for the most novice do-it-yourselfer. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Track down the main water valve coming into the house and turn the water off. Turn the faucet on to drain water in the lines and to make sure the water is off. Stop up the tub drain and cover it with a rag to prevent parts from dropping into the drain.

2. Take the diverter handle off the faucet. For handles with decorative buttons, use a screwdriver to lift the button off. Some buttons are threaded and require pliers to unscrew them for removal. Use a screwdriver to remove the handle screw then take the handle off. Faucet handles that have no button have a screw underneath the handle. Use an Allen wrench to remove the screw then take off the handle.

3. Remove the escutcheon (round plate on the shower wall). Some escutcheons are held in place by a threaded sleeve with a washer that is screwed into place on the escutcheon. To remove this type of escutcheon, unscrew the sleeve by hand then remove the sleeve, washer, and escutcheon. The other type of escutcheon has visible screws you remove with a screwdriver. Note that,depending on the faucet, there may be a plastic handle adapter behind the handle.

4. Find the retaining clip (small metal clip) on the front top of the valve cartridge. Use needle nose pliers to pull the clip straight out. Place the plastic removal tool, included in the Moen kit, on the cartridge. Use pliers to grip the removal tool and loosen the cartridge by turning the tool from side to side. When the valve cartridge is loose enough, take the removal tool off, grip the cartridge and pull it out. Clean off corrosion from the faucet using a wire brush or toothbrush.

5. Use the lubricant included with the Moen kit to coat the O rings on the outside of the new valve cartridge. Install the valve cartridge with the "top" mark facing up. Replace the retaining clip and reassemble the faucet. Take the cover off the drain and open it. Turn the water supply on.

Tags: valve cartridge, diverter handle, Moen diverter, removal tool, cartridge easy

Wine Barrel Label Requirements

American wines must use labels with volume in metric measurements.

Requirements for wine labels were established in the 20th century, as wines became widely available to consumers throughout the world, reports Food Reference. Today, wine labels, on both bottles and barrels, must adhere to strict regulations, depending upon the country of origin and the location in which the wine is sold. In the United States, the regulations for wine labels vary depending on the state in which the wine is sold, but a number of general requirements exist for wine barrel and bottle labeling. Add this to my Recipe Box.

Class

All wine labels must identify the class of wine that the barrel contains. The most common class found on labels is Class 1, which is the definition of a table wine containing no less than 7 percent and no more than 14 percent alcohol by volume, according to Wine Pros. The class-rating system of nine classes includes Class 2 for sparkling wines, Class 7 for apertif wine (no less than 15 percent alcohol by volume) and Class 8 for retsina wine, which is grape table wine fermented with resin. Other classes include citrus wines, fruit wines, wines from other agricultural products and imitation wines.

Quantity

According to U.S. law, all wineries are required to label the quantity of wine using the metric system. All quantities larger than 3 liters, which includes those contained in wine barrels, must also be listed on the barrel label in even liters, such as 7 liters and 8 liters. For tax purposes, U.S. labeling law also requires that the barrel is filled to 1 percent of the labeled amount.

Name and Location

The name and address of all American wineries must be affixed to each wine barrel, reports Wine Pros. While specific labeling requirements for bottles do not apply to barrel labeling, certain words must be affixed to barrel labels, if applicable. The word "Cellared" must appear if the winery cellar treated the wine. The word "Vinted" or "Prepared" should appear if the winery subjected the wine to clarification or barrel aging.

Alcohol Content

Fortified wines, wines that contain more than 14 percent alcohol by volume, must be labeled as such since fortified wine is taxed at a rate of four times higher than those wines under 14 percent alcohol by volume. If a wine is under 14 percent alcohol by volume, the words "table wine" or "light wine" can be printed on barrel labels to indicate a wine ranging from 7 percent to 14 percent alcohol by volume.

Tags: alcohol volume, percent alcohol, percent alcohol volume, than percent, wine labels, table wine

Desert Plants In The United States & Mexico

Cacti, like this cholla, are some of the most recognizable North American desert plants.

The North American desert is home to many varieties of plants. Due to the similar climate of the deserts in Mexico and the southwestern United States, many plants grow in both countries. Does this Spark an idea?

Big Sagebrush (Artemisia tridentata)

This evergreen shrub grows throughout the arid west, extending from Mexico all the way into Canada. The plant grows from 2 to 7 feet in height, and bears small yellow flowers.

Barrel Cactus (Ferocactus)

A common cactus, members of this genus are found from southern California throughout the American southwest to central Mexico. The cactus grows in a recognizable barrel shape with long spines and red or yellowish-green blossoms.

Datil Yucca (Yucca baccata)

Also known as Spanish bayonet, Spanish dagger and banana yucca, this plant grows from northern Mexico to Colorado. It grows distinctively long, thick leaves and fleshy fruits once commonly eaten by the Pueblo Indians.

Tumbleweed (Salsola)

These roaming plants originally came from the Russian steppes, but are common today throughout the arid regions of North America. When young, the plant grows succulent shoots with short spines and green flowers, but breaks free of the ground when mature to spread seeds as it rolls.

Tags: plant grows, American desert, grows from, North American, North American desert, plant grows from

Facts About The Rainmaker Music Instrument

Rainmakers are musical instruments used to simulate the sound of rain

Rainmakers, or rainsticks, are traditional musical instruments originally made and used in South America. Rainmakers simulate the sound of rainfall, and were originally used in native ceremonies during dry months to ask the gods for rain. In modern times, the instruments are a common novelty musical instrument used in the United States and throughout Mexico and Central and South America. Rainmakers, or rainsticks, are also a quick and easy craft project and a way to teach children about rhythm, percussion, and native cultures.

Definition

Rainmakers are generally made of a hallowed tube or wooden stick, which is then filled with small rocks, thorns, beans or pins. The ends are then sealed to contain the pieces inside. The rainmaker may have been traditionally made of a hallow, dried out cactus. Many modern native variations of this instrument are still made of this material. Homemade rainmakers can be made with household items, such as a paper towel tube and toothpicks.

Playing the Rainstick

Traditionally, the rainmaker is played by turning the tube so that the items inside fall up and down to either end. This falling motion simulates the sound of rain, as the items bounce off the sides of the tube interior. A rainmaker is turned repeatedly up and down to the rhythm of a song. Additionally, the rainmaker can be shaken or tapped to the beat to create a more percussive sound.

History of the Rainmaker

There are many theories about the origins of the rainmaker. The rainmaker may have evolved from wooden rattles filled with dried beans that have been found in archaeological digs in Peru. These rattles date back to the Incas. Similarly, the origin of the rainmaker has been linked to rattles used by the Huicho of Mexico and the Diaguita Indians of Chile. Both groups are alleged to have used the instrument to bring rain to the arid desert regions of their countries.

Contemporary Rainmakers

Contemporary rainmakers may not be used to bring rain, but are still used in a variety of different types of music as a percussion instrument. The use of rainmakers as a percussion instrument was popularized in 1960s Mexican music. Rainmakers made of reeds and painted with traditional imagery are a common souvenir items for visitors to South America and Mexico. Due to the ease with which rainmakers are crafted, they are also popular kids' craft projects, which are then used to teach children about percussion and rhythm.

Tags: South America, America Rainmakers, bring rain, children about, filled with, have been

Diy Rain Chains

Simple Rain Chain

Rain chains make a bold and decorative statement to the front of your home. Rain-chains originated in Japan with the Japanese using them as alternatives to downspouts. Customize rain chains with a wide variety of items in addition to the simple chain. Make a rain chain for your garden decor. Does this Spark an idea?

Materials

Decide where you would like the rain chain to be. Typically, the chains are located near the entrance to the home, close to the garage or from the corner of the home. Visibility is important in the placement of the chains. Use a tape measure and measure from the ground to the downspout opening of the chosen area determine the length of chain to purchase.

You have an option of choosing different kinds of links or chain. You can purchase a length of chain from the hardware store, use shower curtain hooks or large sized metal key rings. Additionally, you will need a v-shaped gutter hanger, metal stake for staking into the ground or any type of half barrel to catch the rainwater for use in the garden.

Construction

Remove the existing downspout from the gutter if your gutter has a downspout that is straight down. For gutters that have side downspouts drill a 2-inch hole near the end of the gutter for placement of the rain chain and place a cap on the end of the gutter.

Interlock the links together creating a chain. If your water runoff is heavy, you may want to consider strengthening the chain by using two links together. This will make a more visually appealing look as well.

Slip one end of the chain onto the gutter strap and push the ends of the gutter strap into the hole you created or the existing downspout hole. Let the chain hang to the ground. Slip the ground stake over the last chain link and pound into the ground. You are finished with a basic rain chain.

Additional Ideas

Make a decorative rain chain by using any number of items at equal distances throughout the chain. For example, use small terra cotta pots along the length of the chain. Drill 3-4 small holes around the lip of the pot and connect it to the main chain by slipping the chain through the hole in the bottom of the pot. Use small key rings, interlock them from each hole in the sides of the pot, and attached to the main chain to anchor it.

Alternatively, use whole or half rain barrels for the rain chain to drop into if you prefer catching the rainwater to use in the garden. Instead of the stake, tie a rock to the bottom of the chain to hold the chain in place in the bottom of the barrel.

Tags: rain chain, length chain, chain place, chain purchase, chain using

Drink Rain Water

Drink Rain Water

Rainwater can be a good source of drinking water if necessary. You must have a viable and clean method of collecting enough rainwater to drink. Cleaning rainwater may be necessary before you can drink it, if it contains pollutants such as car exhaust or building smog collected in the clouds. Add this to my Recipe Box.

Instructions

1. Collect rainwater directly from the sky, before it touches buildings, trees or the ground. Use a child's 6-to 8-foot play pool to capture rainwater as it falls. A pool surface of 6 feet in diameter would collect about 17 gallons of water if it were raining at 1 inch per hour. An 8-foot diameter pool would collect 31 gallons of rainwater if it were raining one inch per hour.

2. Collect rainwater using a clean, solid tarpaulin. Secure a 12-foot tarpaulin, using rope, between two walls or trees where it slopes downward into a collection bucket or barrel covered in screening to prevent debris from entering. Continue to empty or switch the barrel, because as long as it is raining you can collect fresh rainwater. This method is very effective in your backyard or while you are camping.

3. Collect rainwater from your rooftop. Make sure your roof is made with non-toxic materials and preferably not painted or fire proof treated. As it rains, the water runs down the roof and into clean rain gutters made of plastic, or galvanized metal so it won't rust. The rain gutters drain into a clean barrel or other storage container that is covered with a screen to prevent leaves and twigs from entering.

Collect rainwater from your rooftop only after you have let one hour of rainwater clean the rooftop and gutters. Divert this first rain away from your storage tank.

4. Store your collected rainwater in clean barrels meant to hold and dispense water. Use a method of siphoning the water from the play pool into the barrels. The barrels should have a secure lid and a method of dispensing the water.

5. Treat your stored rainwater with liquid chlorine bleach. If you will be storing the water long term in sealed containers, pour 1 tsp. of liquid chlorine bleach per every 10 gallons. Re-treat the rainwater with chlorine bleach every 6 months. If you will be drinking the rainwater immediately, wait at least an hour before you drink the water after adding the bleach.

6. Clean your rain water so it is safe to drink. Boil your water for approximately 2 minutes to kill bacteria, pathogens and protozoa in water. Boiling is the best method for cleaning water to drink. Let the water cool off before you drink it. Stir the water to add back in oxygen bubbles so that is is more palatable to drink.

7. Clean your rainwater with 16 drops of iodine per gallon. Make sure the iodine has not expired.

Tags: Collect rainwater, before drink, chlorine bleach, from your, rainwater with, bleach every, chlorine bleach every

Florida Regulation For Drums Of Oil Outside

Florida law bans open oil drums stored outside.

Most American states require oil drums to be stored in a certain way to avoid spills that can soil the environment. Whether you're storing used or new oil in drums on your Florida property or business--either inside or outside--there's a certain way it must be done. If you don't follow the guidelines, depending on the size of your operation, you could face fines and sanctions.

Considerations

As of Jan. 4, 2009, Florida law requires an annual permit for anyone storing barrels of oil at a processing plant, sales point, burning facility or transport operation--whether that storage takes place inside or outside. Those who store oil in drums in small quantities--like mechanics shops which store used oil in drums until full, at which point a recycling service is employed to drain the drums--are required to store that fluid in labeled, unleaking drums in good condition.

All Drums

According to Florida law, a standard barrel can contain 42 gallons of oil. The drums must be maintained in a proper way, too: Oil can't be stored in drums that are not properly labeled as containing "Used Oil," or simply "Oil," in the case of a new product. The drums must be free of rust, damage or holes.

Drums Outside

If a drum of oil is stored outside, it must be closed or covered, adding protection from the weather. This is to prevent unnecessary spillage or overflow during heavy rain storms. Also, drums that are not double-walled must be kept on a concrete or asphalt surface, providing a seal from soil exposure.

Oil Disposal

Any oil stored in drums must be disposed of through a licensed recycling service. This includes old oil filters. It is not legal to dispose of used oil or filters at a Florida landfill, as well as into Florida soil, sewers, septic tanks or natural water system. The state requires that these wastes be disposed of at licensed and monitored facilities.

Tags: drums must, Drums Outside, drums stored, drums that, recycling service

Build Your Own Biogas Digester

Municipal waste and animal dung can be used to generate cooking fuel.

A biogas digester is a sustainable design to produce methane gas using feedstocks of various sources, which can then be used to supply cooking stoves and ovens. The waste, such as animal manure, municipal waste and food waste, releases methane gas, a clean-burning fuel source that does not produce soot. The following instructions are for a personal-use biogas digester. Other types and sizes are available depending on how much feedstock is available for energy generation.

Instructions

1. Cut the top of the larger water tank completely off. This will serve as the digester tank to hold the feedstock. Cut the top from the smaller barrel and fit it, upside down, inside of the larger jug for a telescoping effect. This will act as the dome to capture the methane gas. This barrel system should be fitted on a frame with a flat, horizontal base and a cross-beam at the top to hold the dome in place once it reaches its maximum methane capacity.

2. Fit the flexible pipe to the bottom of the large tank. This pipe should be a few centimeters longer than the height of the barrel itself. Attach a funnel to the open end. This will be used to pour the slurry, which is the mixture of feedstock and water that ferments to produce the methane gas. The funnel end will be loosely attached to the top of the tank and can be used in case of an overflow.

3. Fit the outlet valve to the upper section of the larger waste barrel. This valve determines the amount of waste the digester is capable of holding. The spent feedstock can be used in various ways, including as fertilizer for gardens, in compost piles and as a supplement in livestock feed.

4. Attach the gas outlet to the top section of the smaller, inner tank. This should be placed so it can be attached conveniently to a stove or oven. The outlet valve can be attached to the stove using a flexible pipe. Determine the correct fitting for the stove by consulting the manufacturer's suggestions.

5. Load the system with 20kg of waste slurry composed of water and cattle dung. It is especially important that the first load of feedstock is cattle dung because the bacteria in the dung breaks down organic matter to produce the methane gas.

After waiting about two weeks, gas production should begin and be noticeable as the dome begins to rise up from the larger tank. Test the gas to be sure it is combustible. If so, you can begin using other types of feedstocks such as municipal and food waste.

Tags: produce methane, This will, biogas digester, cattle dung, flexible pipe

Find Your Land For Homesteading

Find your rural homestead.

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, the United States government encouraged settlement of the West by offering free land to anyone who would live on the land and improve it. These homesteads helped populate Western states. The Federal Land Policy Act of 1976 repealed the homesteading program and ended the era of free government land. Today when people talk of homesteading, they usually mean building a home where they can live self-sufficiently. If the land is inexpensive, so much the better. You can find your land for homesteading if you're willing to put in time and effort, and wait for the right deal to come along.

Instructions

1. Narrow your choice to a specific area of the country. If you intend to garden or raise livestock, consider the climate and growing season and the type of crops you can expect to raise. If you want to live near family, put that on your list of criteria. Search online for a cost-of-living calculator to compare the cost of living in various locations. Look at job opportunities as well. Most homesteaders have to work at least part time to support their homesteads.

2. Examine your finances and determine how much you can pay for your new homestead. Remember to factor in moving costs and money for making improvements on the property. If you don't have enough money to pay for the property outright, calculate how much of a down payment and the amount of monthly payment you can afford.

3. Research local restriction, ordinances and laws in the area in which you're interested in buying a homestead property. If you intend to raise livestock, you want to be sure such activities are allowed. Determine if water is available in the area or if you'll be able to drill a well or construct a cistern. For instance, Colorado law prohibits collecting rainwater in a rain barrel or cistern. Some areas do not have potable water. Some require water hardness mitigation infrastructure. Be sure about water and other utilities before you buy.

4. Search real estate listings in your preferred locale. This may not turn up properties in your price range, but it will give you an idea of what is available and what properties sell for. Contact a real estate agent who specializes in homestead properties. Ask about foreclosures and short sales, also. Subscribe to the local paper and study the real estate listings there.

5. Check listings on eBay for land in your preferred area. Look for listings with no reserve price, meaning the highest bidder will win the land no matter how low the bid. Read the listing carefully and note any additional fees, such as title registration or documentation fees, which usually amount to no more than a couple hundred dollars. Find out the exact lot description, and research the lot. Visit the area if possible, but know that Google Maps and the County Tax Assessor can provide more information about the land. Determine if the land is accessible by road and if any utilities are available. Ask questions of the seller before you make your bid.

6. Search county tax records for property owned by people who live out of state. You can search many tax assessors online. Write a letter to the owner of any property that interests you and make an offer to purchase the land. Many times, out-of-state owners of undeveloped property inherited the property and would entertain an offer to purchase the property.

7. Place an ad in the local paper where you wish to settle. Describe the type of property you're looking for and the amount you can afford to pay. See if you get any replies. You could also propose a rent-to-own deal. A seller whose property has been on the market for a while might take you up on the offer.

Tags: real estate, estate listings, local paper, offer purchase, raise livestock, real estate listings

Pontoon Boat Work

Pontoon boats are one of the most popular boats on the water today. The reason is they are easy to maintain, can go almost anywhere and are very stable. That's because of their design. The pontoon boat is made from solid aluminum or fiberglass "pontoons." These are filled with air but they are not pumped with air. The pontoons are not like inner tubes or floats; they use a simple principal to stay above water.

Floating Pontoons

A pontoon is essentially a large tube made from sheet aluminum or fiberglass that is very light. It's main advantage is measured in terms of cubic feet. Since most of the cubic area of the pontoon is air, it will float on water. Air is lighter than water, and the aluminum that surrounds this air is also very light. Though it wouldn't float on its own, when it encompasses an area that contains lighter air, it will float. Using this principal, a pontoon boat is able to float and carry a great deal of weight.

Weight and How they are Made

Most family pontoon boats are made using two individual pontoons with a v-shaped front end on a steel frame. This results in a catamaran style, double hull. The pontoons are riveted to the horizontal frame bars or crafted as part of the hull. A platform is then built on top of the frame and the interior installed. The pontoons can be built in any size to hold various amounts of weight. In fact, there is a ratio to the amount of weight a pontoon boat can carry to the size of the pontoon. The more cubic square feet of air in the pontoon, and the lighter the pontoon exterior, the more the boat can carry.

Tags: pontoon boat, aluminum fiberglass, boat carry, made from, very light

Fiskars Garden Tools

Fiskars tools help consumers around the world maintain their lawns and gardens.

Fiskars Brands, headquartered in Madison, Wisconsin, produces both garden and craft products, including scissors, knives and garden hand tools. This company sells products throughout the world. Most products come with a lifetime warranty, which means that you can get a defective product fixed or replaced as long as you own it. Its parent company, Fiskars, was started in 1649 and is the oldest company in Finland. Does this Spark an idea?

Bypass Pruner

The PowerGear Large Bypass Pruner is meant for pruning shrubs, bushes and small treas. It uses a rolling, ergonomic handle, which helps reduce user fatigue, and this tool is for people with medium-sized to large hands. It has a three-quarter-inch cutting capacity, and the blade features rust-resistant coating.

The handle on this tool is made of fiberglass composite materials, and the handle opening is adjustable. This tool is recommended by the Arthritis Foundation for ease of use. The product number for this tool is 7936.

Reel Mower

The Momentum Reel Mower allows you to cut thick grasses and weeds, and you can even mow over small twigs and branches. It has an adjustable cutting height, from 1 to 4 inches.

The mower is equipped with an ergonomic, padded handle to increase comfort. The handle height can be adjusted, as can the mower's blades. Other features of this tool include a forward-throw grass discharge chute.

The Momentum Reel Mower comes with a four year warranty, and the product number for this tool is 6201.

Hedge Shears

Shears act as heavy-duty scissors allowing you to prune and shape bushes, shrubs and small trees. The Telescoping Power-Lever Hedge Shears-26/33 inch come with rust-resistant steel blades.

The steel handles telescope between 26 and 33 inches; they have a rubber coating to increase comfort and reduce fatigue. The blades on these shears are serrated, which help you better hold onto branches. The cutting capacity for the hedge shears is 8.5 inches; the product number for this tool is 9169.

Tree Pruner

The Power-Lever Tree Pruner-14 Foot allows you to trim branches on trees. The fiberglass pole extends up to 14 feet, and can be locked in place. This allows you to reach high branches without having to climb up onto a ladder.

The serrated blade is made of steel, and it has a rust-resistant coating on it. This tool has a cutting capacity of over 1 inch.

The tree pruner, product number 9301, comes with a lifetime warranty.

Tags: product number, this tool, cutting capacity, number this, number this tool

Clean Plastic Fuel Drums

Older fuel drums can be washed out chemically and reused multiple times.

Plastic fuel drums are designed to store gasoline or diesel for long periods of time without fuel degradation. They do not rust like older-style metal drums which gives them the ability to be reused many times. Over time fuel within any container will begin to separate and form a thick sludge on the bottom. This sludge can be removed and the interior of the drum cleaned to return it to almost new condition. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Open the cap of the fuel drum slowly to allow gases inside to vent. Drain as much fuel as possible into a safe collecting container by turning the drum upside down. Allow drum to hang upside down for several hours until most of the liquid inside has drained out.

2. Turn the fuel drum right side up. Pour 1 qt. of acetone into the drum. Add a few handfuls of screws or pieces of scrap metal. Swirl the drum around several times to allow the screws and acetone to remove sludge from the bottom of the drum. Wait 30 minutes while the acetone dissolves the sludge.

3. Turn the drum upside down again and drain out the acetone and screws. Let it hang upside down for a few minutes until completely drained. Turn the tank right side up again and wait an hour while the acetone evaporates. Repeat this process as many times as needed until the acetone solution drains out of the tank clear.

Tags: upside down, drained Turn, drum upside, drum upside down, fuel drum

Small Garden Irrigation Ideas

Use a sprinkler to irrigate a small garden.

Small gardens are easily irrigated, with either an installed or a moveable system of applying water to the plants. Gardeners with very small gardens may need to use only a hand watering can or large bucket to supply the irrigation their plants need. Does this Spark an idea?

Sprinkler

Although generally considered for use on turf lawns, overhead sprinklers effectively irrigate small gardens as well. A simple ring-shaped, or "doughnut" sprinkler emits a fountain-like waterfall from the holes spaced on the top and sides of the doughnut. Decorative sprinklers in whimsical shapes mount atop short metal poles and, when connected to a garden hose, disperse water only a short distance, suitable for use in a small garden.

Soaker Hose

Position a soaker hose--similar to a regular garden hose but with holes all along its length--on the ground near the base of the plants. Connect the back end of the soaker hose to a garden hose. The water travels the length of the hose, seeping from the holes along its length, watering the roots of the plants. Soaker hoses are more efficient than sprinklers, as very little water evaporates. Once placed in a small garden and covered with mulch, the soaker hose remains in place for the entire growing season. Simply disconnect the garden hose when you are not watering to keep it out of the way.

Underground Irrigation System

Install a simple drip irrigation system in a small garden using a do-it-yourself kit. Dig small trenches for the feed lines or lay them on the soil, depending on the model. Connect the emitters and attach the entry point to a garden hose or spigot, depending on the specifications of the kit manufacturer. Some models can be removed in severe winter areas, and others can be left in place in even the northernmost gardens.

Tags: garden hose, small garden, from holes, holes along, irrigate small

Make A Penobscot Bow

Penobscot bows are powerful and accurate.

The Penobscot bow is a compound bow comprised of two bows attached at the grip. This double bow design results in a great deal of power in a relatively small package. Arrows fired from the Penobscot bow are accurate and fast, and the unique design allows for an easier draw. This bow was produced originally by hand by the Penobscot tribes in North America, so it is possible for you to make your own version in the comfort of your own home.

Instructions

1. Trim the first sapling to 4 feet long and the second sapling to 2 feet long using the knife. Strip the bark off of both of them using your hands. You may use a knife for stubborn bark, but be careful not to damage the wood. Set both saplings aside to dry for 24 hours.

2. Secure the smaller sapling in the vice. Draw a straight line from end to end to mark the belly of the smaller bow. Place an "X" in the center of this line, dividing the bow in half lengthwise. Mark out 3 inches above and below this line. Use the file and knife to shape the belly of the smaller bow. The bow should be 1 inch thick at the grip area and 1/2 inch thick at the ends. Shape the bow to these dimensions with a gentle taper. Remove the bow from the vice.

3. Secure the larger sapling in the vice. Mark the belly of the bow with a straight line. Carve out the belly of the bow so that the entire bow is 3/4 inch thick. Remove the bow from the vice.

4. Sand both bows smooth to prevent slivers.

5. Carve four notches, one in each end of each bow, to form the nocks of the bows. These should be 1 inch deep.

6. Immerse the large bow in the trough, making sure it is covered completely with water. Set the trough out in the sun and let the bow soak for four to five days. This should make the bow pliable enough to bend slightly. If the bow is not pliable, return it to the water for up to three more days.

7. Turn the rain barrel on its side. Strap the large bow to the rain barrel with the leather straps. It should be strapped belly-side down over the barrel so that it forms a recurve. The curve should be gentle, but noticeable. Allow it to dry in this position for five to seven days.

8. Glue the bows together at the grip. The belly of the smaller bow should rest against the front of the larger bow. Clamp and allow the glue to dry according to the manufacturer's directions.

9. Wrap the leather grip around the grip of the double bow and trim to size with the knife. Remove the leather grip and coat the grip of the bow with glue. Replace the leather and allow the glue to dry according to the manufacturer's directions.

10. String your Penobscot bow. Tie one end of the bow string to the top nock of the smaller bow. Thread the bow string through the top nock of the larger bow, down through the bottom nock of the larger bow, and secure it to the bottom nock of the smaller bow. Pull the string taunt until the smaller bow curves just slightly. The exact tension is a matter of personal preference, so experiment before tying off the bow string for good. Your bow should now be ready for use.

Tags: belly smaller, inch thick, according manufacturer, according manufacturer directions, allow glue, allow glue according, belly smaller should

Secure A Barrel In A Truck Bed

Check state and federal regulations for the transportation of hazardous substances.

Transporting barrels or a 55-gallon drum in an open truck bed requires some preparation and safety knowledge before you "load and go." There are considerations that must be taken into account, like the contents of the barrel or even the construction of the barrel. Regardless of the circumstances, safety is the most important factor for you and the other motorists you encounter on your journey.

Instructions

1. Placards provide class identification and hazard notification.

Consider first what your barrel contains. If your container is empty but previously held any kind of hazardous substance or waste, it must be considered full for transportation purposes. In this case it will have to be placarded for identification. Federal law is strict in this concern. If you are found to be transporting hazardous substances improperly you may be subject to federal and state penalty, which can include a fine or imprisonment.

2. Once you have identified and labeled your container properly, the weight of your container must be considered. By volume, a full 55-gallon drum can weigh 385 lbs. or more. Because of weight concerns, containers should be secured from front to rear and never the reverse.

3. Make sure your bindings are not damaged, especially if you use rope.

If your truck is equipped with securing bolts or squared receivers you can use the hook ends of a ratchet-strap to secure the barrel. You can never secure the container too much. You should also secure the bottom of the drum, but the top is most important as to prevent tipping and spillage of contents. Remember that because of inertia the binding you use to secure the container must be able to sustain more tensile strength than would be necessary merely for the weight of the container.

4. Benign materials need no special marking, although the securing mechanisms should still be adhered to. If your barrel is carrying benign material the rules governing transportation are less stringent, but you should verify regulatory statutes with local agencies before assuming it is OK to transport.

Tags: your container, 55-gallon drum, container must, hazardous substances, most important, must considered, secure container

Paint A Whiskey Barrel

Creative gardening ideas can be fun and using painted whiskey barrels in your garden landscape can bring enjoyment. Painting a whiskey barrel for outdoors can extend the life of the whiskey barrel to a maximum of about 10 years or indefinitely for indoors. You can complement your house color with a coordinating paint color or choose a decorative theme for an herb garden. Included are 10 tips for painting a whiskey barrel. Just follow this step-by-step instructions for a unique growing container idea. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Decide where you are going to place your whiskey barrel in your landscape and if you are going to do a decorative pattern or a solid color.

2. Work in an open and well-ventilated space. The whiskey barrel needs to dry undisturbed between coats and preferably under a roof cover, since it will take several days to complete. If you do not have a painter's drop cloth, use a plastic tarp or old shower curtain to collect any paint drips. Cover your project if weather is inclement. When you are ready to get started, get someone to help you move the whiskey barrel to project area.

3. Check the whiskey barrel and make sure the barrel hoops are secure. If they are not, attach the barrel hoops to wooden staves with screws.

4. Most whiskey barrels have rust on the barrel hoops, so clean those areas first. Use a wire brush to brush the barrel hoops to smooth out the metal.

5. Use a 1-inch wood drill spade to make several holes in the bottom of the whiskey barrel for drainage. Use an X-shape pattern for drainage holes.

6. Use a wire brush to remove splinters and dirt from the entire whiskey barrel. Remove any excess metal or wood debris by wiping the whiskey barrel with a tack cloth or other rags. For your safety, use goggles and gloves when sanding or wire brushing your whiskey barrel.

7. Prime the metal barrel hoops first, getting in between the metal and the wood. Adequately cover the rust on the metal, especially if your whiskey barrel will be outdoors. Apply a second coat of primer and make sure to let it dry between coats.

8. Prime the wood thoroughly with the exception of the bottom. Allow the first coat to dry and apply another coat of primer in the opposite direction.

9. Prime the rims last, trying not to drip the primer. Touch up any spots you may have missed.

10. Apply two coats of paint, allowing for complete dryness between coats. Use bricks or pavers to elevate your whiskey barrel for aeration under the barrel.

Tags: whiskey barrel, barrel hoops, your whiskey barrel, whiskey barrel, your whiskey

What Are The Benefits Of Roof Runoff Control Systems

A rooftop runoff system could recycle the rainwater on this roof and put it to good use.

Rooftop runoff control systems are just one of many construction developments designed to increase a building's environmental efficiency. The system recycles rainwater through the gutter and drainage pipes of the building so that it can be used for other purposes. Also, green roofs, in which a rooftop is covered with sod for plants, are considered rooftop runoff control systems. Does this Spark an idea?

Reducing Sewer Overflow

Sewer overflow is a nasty problem that occurs regularly in areas where storm drains are badly damaged or have become clogged with trash and debris. It can cause floods that disrupt traffic and can even endanger people's lives. Roof runoff control systems reduce sewer overflow by funneling the clean rainwater into a recycling system or by allowing the rainwater to be absorbed by the plants on a green roof.

Clean Water for Farms

Water contamination is an important issue for farmers. When rainwater runs off farm buildings, it is mixed with the animal manure and becomes contaminated. Roof runoff systems allow farmers to recycle clean rainwater for various uses on farms. It also lessens costs for farmers having to dispose of contaminated water and helps to protect livestock.

Less Erosion of Topsoil

Roof runoff control systems lessen the erosion of topsoil, another important issue for farmers. Topsoil is rich in nutrients. A huge storm can wash away tons of topsoil permanently. It costs thousands of dollars for farmers to replace topsoil and replenish nutrients each year. A rooftop runoff control system can decrease the amount of topsoil lost and therefore decrease the costs to farmers.

Lower Heating and Cooling Costs

In the case of a green roof, the soil on the top of the roof can act as added natural insulation to the building in colder months. In warmer months, the plants will absorb heat that strikes the rooftop and thereby provide natural cooling to the building. Both of these actions, as an indirect result of this particular rooftop runoff control system, reduce overall heating and cooling costs, in addition to absorbing runoff.

Providing Food and Water

Rooftop runoff control systems can provide both food and water to a building. Clean runoff water can be collected in the building and used for cleaning and bathing. Also, food that is produced on top of a green roof is good for consumption. These two indirect benefits can lower both food and water costs to the inhabitants of the building.

Tags: runoff control, runoff control systems, control systems, green roof, rooftop runoff, both food

Project Ideas With 55gallon Plastic Drums

55-gallon drums can be used in various ways.

Although 55-gallon drums are primarily used as containers for various products, they can be used in other ways as well. A 55-gallon plastic drum can be the basis for diverse DIY projects that range from constructing a piece of furniture out of a plastic drum to using the plastic drum as part of a homemade raft project. 55-gallon plastic drums can be purchased new or they can be recycled drums that formerly were used as storage containers. Does this Spark an idea?

Rain Barrels

55-gallon drums are often used in rain-harvesting projects. Some rain-harvesting projects call for two or more 55-gallon drums, but a simple system can be built using only one drum that serves as the rainwater reservoir. When preparing the drum for the system, a hole is cut in the top of the barrel to receive the water, which is usually rainwater diverted off a roof into the drum. Additionally, holes are drilled in the side of the drums to allow for access to the water, for overflow and to link drums together when more than one drum is used. Drums that have previously held chemicals are not recommended for this project.

DIY Raft

Due to their buoyancy, 55-gallon plastic barrels are sometimes used in water-related projects that need something that floats. One such project is a DIY raft. This project involves using 55-gallon drums, plywood, bolts, 2-by-4s and steel cable meshed together to form a raft.

Compost Bin

A 55-gallon plastic drum compost bin project can provide a two-fold environmental impact. Recycling a used 55-gallon plastic drum keeps a chunk of plastic from ending up in a landfill, and composting also provides environmental benefits. This 55-gallon plastic drum project can be accomplished by simply drilling six to nine holes over the entire length of the drum to allow even air circulation throughout the compost bin and adding compost. The compost can be mixed by laying the drum on its side and rolling the drum a few rotations every few days.

Chair

Some 55-gallon plastic drum projects are easier to envision than others are. One that is not so easy to envision is making a chair from a 55-gallon drum. Making a chair out of a plastic drum takes recycling to a new level and provides an inexpensive piece of furniture. A plastic drum chair project can be completed with a few basic tools that include a screwdriver, jigsaw, drill, and a heat gun and with a pieces of hardware that include drywall and machine screws, nuts, washers, c-clamps and a piece of flat steel. The directions to building a plastic drum chair are moderately complex, but the general idea is to cut the drum in half, forming a base from one half and fabricating the top and arms from the other half.

Tags: plastic drum, 55-gallon plastic, 55-gallon drums, 55-gallon plastic drum, drum chair, furniture plastic, furniture plastic drum

Grow Vegetables In Barrels

Planting vegetables in barrels is as easy as planting them in the ground. Proper soil, fertilizer, sun and sufficient water are the main ingredients for barrel planting. Wood holds the least amount of water of all the planter materials, and therefore you must pay extra attention to watering. You can plant any size vegetables in wooden barrels. However, dwarfs bred from normal size vegetables work best for both size and volume. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

1. Set up your barrels. Most barrels are made out of wood, though if you have a barrel-size terra-cotta or plastic container, the process will be the same. Plastic is the most effective material for plant containers, as it retains water much longer than wood and resists rot. The advantage of a wooden barrel is that it keeps the plant better insulated from the cold and is more aesthetically pleasing. Make sure you drill three to four drainage holes into the base of the barrel.

2. Mix the soil. You will want to use a good quality potting soil mixed with a fertilizer to compensate for the lack of nutrients that natural garden beds contain. Choose a "premium" potting soil, which has water-retention properties as well as a greater amount of fertilizer. Mix additional fertilizer into the soil; you can use either a commercial fertilizer (following the instructions on your particular product) or organic compost matter or manure. Use a 3:1 soil-to-fertilizer ratio when preparing your mix. Fill the barrels ¾ full.

3. Choose your vegetables. You can choose virtually any variety of vegetable, though try to avoid the extremely tall-growing types, like full-size corn. Golden baby midgets (corn) are a good alternative, as are cherry tomatoes in lieu of full-size tomatoes. Lettuce, cucumber, eggplants, beets, zucchini, peas, peppers and squash can all be grown inside a barrel. Most vegetables today have been bred to be miniature. These versions are excellent for barrel planting and can be found either as seeds or transplants.

4. Plant the vegetable seeds or transplants. Plant in early spring for a summer crop or middle summer for a fall harvest. Before planting, thoroughly water the soil. Plant the bulb or root of the vegetable transplant about one inch below the surface. For seed planting, plant between two cm and one inch below the surface. Refer to the "depth" instructions on the back of your particular seed packet.

5. Drench the plant following planting. You can fill the barrel up to the brim with a gentle stream of water and allow the water to be absorbed. Make sure you check the soil every day for moisture level; wooden barrels will require more frequent watering, either every day or every other, depending on the intensity of your climate. Keep the barrels in a location that gets at least six hours of sunlight each day. Most vegetables will continue to produce fruit throughout the season if you pick them as they appear.

Tags: barrel planting, below surface, inch below, inch below surface, Make sure

Clean Rain Water

Rainwater can be cleaned for safe use.

Rain water is a collection of pure H20 particles, air pollution and other contaminants in the atmosphere. If the water touches a surface such as an asphalt roof, more pollutants may be present. Cleaning rainwater for the purpose of watering plants or drinking is called harvesting. Harvesting can be accomplished using three very important steps: catchment, filtration and storage.

Instructions

1. Install a catchment system that fits your space and the amount of water you’d like to use. The catchment system is where rain is collected and filtered. Select a catchment system that is low-impact, meaning it has as little contact with land and debris as possible.

2. Install a mechanical and finer filtration system in the catchment. Mechanical filtration systems include materials such as screens, gravel and wire mesh. A finer filtration also must be selected and installed before rain water is collected. A chemical filter is one recommended system to ensure water is safe for drinking. Another filtration option is reverse osmosis, where only water is pushed through a membrane, leaving the pollutants to be extracted. Reverse osmosis systems, mechanical and chemical systems can be purchased easily online. (See resources.)

3. Select and install a storage system ensuring the rain water is fully secured, allowing no water to evaporate and no pollutants to contaminate the water.

4. Collect rain water, checking catchment, filtration and storage systems often to ensure all parts are working properly.

5. Test the first batch. While rainwater is variable and testing every batch would be prohibitively expensive, it's a good idea to test the first batch to make sure your filtration system is producing acceptable water. The EPA can direct you to a local testing facility or lab by calling its Safe Drinking Water Hotline, 1-800-426-4791. There are also home water quality testing kits commercially available at online retailers.

Tags: catchment system, rain water, catchment filtration, catchment filtration storage, catchment system that, filtration storage, filtration system

Use Sawdust For Raising Red Worms

Red worms, more commonly called red wigglers or Eisenia fetida, can convert kitchen scraps to vermicompost (worm castings) in home worm bins. They require bedding materials that absorb water, since they breathe through their skin and require a moist environment. The bedding in their bin also needs to stay fluffy; if it packs down too tightly, oxygen can't penetrate. 


 
Opinions run the gamut on whether to use sawdust as bedding for worm bins. While many books and articles for the general public on raising compost worms list sawdust as potential bedding, sawdust ranks low on the list of good bedding materials compiled by Canadian worm composting researcher Glenn Munroe. Sawdust lacks both water absorbency and fluffiness compared to manure, cardboard and shredded paper and other alternatives, according to Munroe. Other experts and hobbyists discourage use of sawdust alone as worm bedding for additional reasons, but if you choose to go that route, there are ways of incorporating sawdust into your worm operation.

Instructions

1. Age the sawdust for at least six months. WormDigest.org recommends that the sawdust be exposed to the rain and the sun as it ages. The aging sawdust should also be combined with animal manure, particularly poultry manure, so these waste products age together, according to the Missouri Department of Conservation.

2. Mix the aged sawdust-manure mixture with other bedding, such as soaked cardboard torn into strips, shredded paper, peat moss or coconut coir (fiber).

3. Construct a new, small worm bin to test the bedding so that your primary worm bin is not placed at risk. Add 1 pound of worms from your primary worm bin to the satellite bin containing the aged sawdust-manure mixture as well as your other bedding materials. Maintain your primary bin without exposing it to the sawdust experiment.

4. Monitor the progress of the new worm colony for at least six weeks. Check that its pH level remains around 7.0 (neutral). Add crushed eggshells to restore balance if the bin becomes too acidic from the sawdust.

5. Check that the bedding appears loose on visual inspection and full of air pockets as demonstrated by a "sniff test," checking for unpleasant odor. Add damp cardboard or torn newspaper strips if you discover odor, to absorb excess liquid, and turn the bedding with a three-tined garden cultivator, to add oxygen.

6. Test the bedding moisture level with a moisture meter to ensure it remains at between 70 and 80 percent. Spritz with dechlorinated water if the bin becomes too dry or lower the sawdust content of the bin bedding, or both.

7. Use aged sawdust and manure in your main bin cautiously if your test herd appears unharmed by its exposure to this mixture. Proceed with caution as worm herds can have marked preferences for foods and bedding materials.

Tags: bedding materials, your primary, aged sawdust-manure, aged sawdust-manure mixture, cardboard torn, Check that, other bedding

What Are Rain Pots

Rain pots, also called rain barrels, capture and store rain water running off of a rooftop. A variety of utilitarian and decorative downspout systems channel the rain water from the roof to the pot or barrel. In drought prone locations, using stored rain water to subsidize lawn and garden water saves money and resources. Does this Spark an idea?

Design

Commercially available rain barrels are most often made in the style of a plastic 55 gallon drum. The barrels have a screen grate on top to protect the stored water from debris and a spout near the bottom to release the water as needed. You're not limited to these no-frills designs; get creative and make rain storage systems to suit your landscape. Cover the sides of the plastic barrel with mosaic tiles or copper sheeting to add color, style and drama to the design. Paint the rain barrel with acrylics or exterior latex paint to make it blend into the side of your house. You can also paint a decorative landscape scene onto the rain pot or make it resemble an old whiskey barrel.

Downspouts

Downspout systems direct the rain water runoff from the roof into the rain pot. Typically, downspout systems are made from standard gutter spouts positioned directly above the rain pot. As with the rain pot, you are not limited to using gutter spouts to channel the water, but it is the most effective method. Gutter down spouts connect directly to your home's gutter system, catching the majority of water that runs off the roof. Rain chains, often made from copper, also direct water from the roofline into the rain pot. Rain chains are more decorative than gutter spouts, but not as efficient. Water trickles from the roof, along the links in the chain and into the pot.

Retrieval

Retrieving water from a commercial rain pot requires a standard water hose. Rain barrels have PVC fittings connected to the spout at the base that fit the end of a water hose. Attach the hose to the rain barrel fitting the same way you would attach a water hose to an outside spigot. Water retrieval from homemade rain pots without the spout fitting can be trickier. Dip water buckets or other containers into the rain pot to remove small amounts of water at a time.

Advantages

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, rain pots will save many homeowners an average of 1300 gallons of water during the heat of the summer. This savings not only translates into free water for gardening and lawn maintenance, it reduces the impact of runoff into nearby streams and reduces the demand for treated tap water. Use collected rain water for more than keeping your grass green and watering your flowers. Wash your car, clean outdoor furniture, clean your windows and top up a swimming pool with stored rain water.

Tags: rain water, water from, from roof, gutter spouts, into rain, water hose, barrel with

Melt Freezing Rain

Freezing rain can cause structural damage to trees.

Freezing rain occurs when supercooled water droplets come into contact with subzero temperatures. If rain freezes mid-air, it is known as sleet, and falls as tiny ice pellets, similar to hail. However, freezing rain that remains liquid until it hits the ground tends to spread out and form a transparent layer of slippery ice that makes for hazardous driving and walking. Large amounts can also cause structural damage to houses and trees. This is a particular problem on roofs, because the freezing rain not only adds weight, but blocks normal drainage channels, causing leaks. Removing ice formed by freezing rain mechanically is dangerous and can easily damage the roof or trees, so melting it is the best option. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Roofs

1. Evaluate whether or not removal is necessary. If the ice is not causing an immediate weight or water problem, attempting removal may cause more damage than leaving it to melt on its own. Removal may be necessary if you notice new leaks in your attic, cracks in your drywall, jammed doors or a sagging ridge line on a sloped roof. Ice caused by freezing rain should be removed from flat roofs once it reaches a thickness of 6 inches.

2. Shovel layers of snow to reveal the ice underneath. On a sloped roof, always work from the top to the bottom, or snow and ice higher up on the roof may give way and hit you, possibly causing a fall.

3. Melt drainage channels on the lower half of a sloped roof. Loop electrical de-icing cables around one or more long boards that have been placed parallel to the eaves and above any areas where ice build-up is blocking water drainage. Allow cables to hang over the edge of the roof.

4. Cut holes above the ice build-up on a sloped roof, and pour a non-corrosive chemical de-icer into each hole. Liquid de-icers are best for removing large chunks of ice, but solid de-icers are also available. Avoid products containing calcium chloride or sodium chloride, which can damage roofing materials.

5. Remove ice 2 feet in every direction from around the central drain on flat roofs by pouring hot water from a thermos or liquid chemical de-icers into holes you have cut in the ice.

6. Place electrical de-icing cables in a loop around the central drain and around any obstructions on a flat roof, then run cables to the corners of the roof and around the perimeter. Continue monitoring melting progress, as electrical de-icing cables work only when temperatures are above 14 degrees Fahrenheit.

Walkways and Driveways

7. Sprinkle powder or rock-like chemical de-icers over the area you want cleared. Once the ice has melted enough to be moved, you may wish to shovel the rest of it out of the way.

8. Consider purchasing a portable snow-melting mat for smaller surfaces such as walkways or steps. Roll out the mat on the area you want cleared, and connect it to a power source. Mats melt snow as well as ice, and can be safely left outside until spring.

9. Install a radiant heating system for larger areas that will experience freezing rain and other winter precipitation on a regular basis. These can be purchased online, and have the added benefit of being permanent and low-maintenance.

Trees and Shrubs

10. Minimize damage to trees in wooded lots by planting more conifers, removing or trimming trees with particularly large crowns, and thinning by less than 30 percent.

11. Use electrical de-icing cables and hot water to melt freezing rain at your discretion. Even a 1-inch accumulation of freezing rain can cause significant damage, so do not place yourself at risk by standing beneath large branches that are likely to snap. If you expect a winter storm, thread electrical de-icing cables through branches beforehand. Do not use chemical de-icers; they are harmful to plant life.

12. Connect a hairdryer to a power source with an extension cord to melt ice on small trees or shrubs. Once the ice closest to the leaves or branches has melted, the rest can be removed by gently shaking the trunk or brushing it off with your hand.

Tags: de-icing cables, electrical de-icing, electrical de-icing cables, freezing rain, sloped roof, chemical de-icers